Depends on how it was lifted 3 inches in the first place.

No, the crap chips aren't worth it.

 

im gonna get the actual leafs for the back, it has the add a leaf and it was done with new shocks n everything. and i didnt think the chips were worth it, ive never really heard any good about them

 

This is a great thread concept.

I'm going to buy rotors and front pads today. I was thinking of going with Wagners.. anyone else have their preference?

 

Wagner is good stuff. I don't care for ceramic pads though.

 

Why no ceramic?

 

Maybe the Catalytic converter is stopped up

 

The system won't recognize the new o2s right away. itll take some driving. That or you can flash the system. Drive around for like 50 miles and check

 

In my experience they're harder, louder, gouge the rotors and wear faster. Basically, all the things they say they're better about NOT doing.

 

Ordered up the Wagner rotors and ThermoQuiet pads.. (I've had good luck with those in the past)

 

I heard good things about the duralast gold ceramics... Hmmm. Now I don't know what to do when I change them.

 

Hi guys,a few weeks ago i encountered a weird engine surge,id be traveling at 40mph or so and the RPMs would go up and down,and the autobox would change up and down to compensate for the speeds.I traced it to a vacuum pipe off the inlet manifold,and all was well.But now its back and i cant see any pipe off or broken,its causing my 2000 xj to run sick and its driving me nuts,is it most likely to be another leak?if so how can i trace it? or could it be something else causing the problem,weird thing is my truck was running sweet,pulled her into the workshop and a buddy and me put a RC 3" lift on now she runs sick..any ideas would be gratefully received....

 

I need some help; I have a 1996 GC 4.0. 180K mi. The problems started on a road trip pulling a trailer on a mild grade, suddenly and momentarily the engine quit and the transmission dropped out of OD and lock up and continued to do so intermittently for the rest of the trip, ( I held it in third for the rest of the grade and it ran fine) it may also go for several hundred miles without doing it. And then it just starts to miss and jump in and out of gear, it never completely stops running and it always starts, since then I have been replacing parts, as a mechanic with over twenty years of pulling on wrenches it’s something that I despise doing.
Here is a list of parts that I have replaced, header, it was cracked, fuel pump, sock and filter, wires ,plugs, cap and rotor, ignition coil Crank PS, rebuilt distributer with cam PS, and finally a rebuilt CPU. Most of these parts were due with 180K on the vehicle. The CPU was expensive and unwarranted.
I have also swapped around the relay for the ASD. One thing that’s driving me nuts is how intermittent this problem is. If it just died I could diagnose it. The vehicle is a dry country vehicle no corrosion.
Here are some things I have noticed; the tach stays stable during an episode, it does not do it when cold, only after about 15 to 20 mi of driving. It always starts in the morning or after being driven.
Trouble codes are for multiple misfires, all cylinders, I have also had codes for Cat efficiency and most recent, leak detection pump switch or mechanical failure.
I am under the understanding that OD and lock up are controlled by the ECU that senses engine speed via the Crank Ps True or false?
Thanks for your time and looking forward to your reply. 172Heavy

Oil psi is normal, and the trans was not overheated,( did a service on it immediately after I got home, the fluid was red and no debris in the pan) it jumps out of od and lock up at the moment the engine starts to miss, buck. The engine is a 4.0 inline six and runs very healthy. The missing is like the ignition is cycling on and off, it may do it for several miles and then back to normal, I can then stand on it and twist it tight through the gears, runs normal. I have seen plugged cats and baffles in mufflers that plug outlets restricting flow; they do not act like this.

 

What is my mpg if I get 250 miles to a tank?

 

Unknown. You many gallons did you use in that tank? All 20? If you used all 20 then you got 12.5 mpg. But idk how many gallons you used. I also don't know what lift/tires/gear ratio. Is your speedo still accurate?

 

I used all 20 gallons. The speedometer is working right its about 2-5 mph off with 31s. Stock gear ratio for 4 speed automatic. 2 inch lift.