My in-dash volt gauge reads straight-up at 14V without any active loads and just a hair under when lights and what-not are switched on. Seriously though, how exact should you expect it to be? Under the same conditions, my hand-held voltmeter reads approximately 13.3V at the posts. Just another data-point...Hope this helps.

 

Its not going to be as exact as a digital or your voltmeter, but it sounds like the alternator is doing it's job.

 

i appoligize if im doing this in the wrong place. but i have a 96 cherokee. 5 speed, when ive been driving for like 5-10 minutes when i put it in 1-3 driving between like 1/20 mph there is a whistling noise or a whining noise coming from the transmission. But it stops as soon as i push the clutch in. could it be the throw out berring

 

I'm not worried about it. The beast starts and runs fine, and it's not like it's choking for power. I was just curious to see if others people gauges read the same.

 

On my 91 XJ Limited (200k+) I replaced the lifters & I had the head cleaned and surfaced while it was off. My pressure reads 60psi cold. At temp it idles at 20psi, which seems to be normal from other posts, but only gets up to 40psi while driving and drops to 35psi on the freeway with the cruise control on. 5w30 or 20w50 it still reads the same. Would those be acceptable pressures for the 4.0?

 

OK, this is my problem. My power windows work from drivers' door switch but not anywhere else. Also, my pwr locks do not work at all. I've checked voltage at the fuseblock and I'm not getting anything. The only thing I can see is that there is a white fuse holder looking thing on the left of the main fuse block. I tried to trace the wires from the back of the fuseblock and they seem to be going to that holder? BTW, there is nothing in the that holder. I also read some comments that the window lock sometimes fries, but I have tried two different driver side controls and neither of them make a difference, it still does the same thing. I'm going to try to post a pic on here. If it doesn't show up, its my main pic in my profile. My next step was looking into the solonoid, but if I have no power at the fuseblock, then I'm going to wait until I know more. Any ideas? Thanks guys!

 

I have a 92 XJ it has a 242 with a slip yoke i broke the case when my drive line came loose i just had a friend pick me up a 242 from a 96 grand cherokee but when i got it it is different from mine it has different plugs and it has the external slip yoke that needs a boot on it will this work in my jeep with my stock drive line do i just need to put a boot on it and what do i need to do about making the wiring harness adapt

 

I don't believe that is part of the stock electrical system, someone must have added that at one point. I have no idea what it might be hooked to. My guess is that the PO messed with the wiring in some way to install something aftermarket.

BTW you have to check the power to the windows with the key on. Locks doesn't matter on/off.

The first thing i would check for the power locks are the relays. They are in the engine compartment relay center, I believe it's the relay at the rear of the relay box (left is unlock, right is lock). Try replacing each with one of the other relays temporarily and see if the locks work. If so grab a new relay. Second check the fuse for the locks (inside fuse box), i believe it is #13. Also check to see if you have 12v at the battery side fuse contact. If all these things are OK, and the locks still don't work, you may have a short at one of the lock motors - causing the others to not work as well. Disconnect the electrical connectors from each lock motor one at a time and test. The one that makes the locks on the other doors work again is the bad motor. If this is the case post back and i'll post the troubleshooting procedure for the motor.

As for the window switches, you'll have to check each switch individually. Since your drivers side controls still work for all windows, it's neither a fuse or motor issue - leaving only the switches. Check for bad grounds at these as well.

 

It is within specs. The factory service manual specs say:

13 psi at idle (600rpm)
37-75 psi at 1600rpm & higher

 

Thanks!
Now I can start troubleshooting my non-moving power seats (at least they're stuck at a good location). my lighter plug and the under hood light.

 

The stock one on my 86 does, it usually stays there, but I don't have too many extras yet

 

would putting grand cherokee coils in my 96 xj give it any lift?

 

hey guys i can't find anything written up on a/c fan clutches so i'm starting this topic. i have a 98 cherokee classic 4x4 with the 4.0 I6 and it runs very good, has 179k and still runs pretty top notch. well after work today i get in start it up and the check gauges light comes on so i look at the gauges and notice the volt gauge isn't reading. then i notice the electric fan turns on and off every 3 seconds and the motor hasnt even warmed up past 120. so i drive home and pop the hood. and notice the elect fan is coming on because the a/c clutch is kicking on and off every 3 second. not sure why it's doing that. i had the control on defrost. i dont know if the volt gauge has anything to do with it. i tested the battery and its good. we did have a majoir down pour during the day and notice water all over under the hood so that might be a factor. so any ideas would be helpful. also couldnt i just unplug the a.c electric plug sence i won't be using it in winter anyhow.

 

ok jeeps a 5 speed, had it in 4 wheel, pulled up to stop sign, went to take off and it acted like it wasnt in gear. So made sure it was, tried again and same thing..Took it out of 4 wheel and it takes right off? Took off, put it back in 4 wheel, and a little later herd a grinding sound? pulled up to another stop sign, went to take off and same thing as before, messed with shifter, then messed with 4 wheel lever and it took off just fine? So is it the linkage for the transfer case, again? or something different? Thanks OOH By the way it was in snow/slushy stuff not dry concrete

 

If you have the 5 speed you have Command Track transfer case. I hope you weren't on dry pavement in 4 WD. You should ONLY be using 4WD H or L on loose surfaces....sandy or snowy. If not it puts huge stress on the non differential transfer case and will fry its guts quickly if abused.