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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: BC Canada
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
I've got the 89 XJ fixed up now and running great except for one problem.
Fixed the 88 XJ slow window problem by lubing up the regulators....thanks to advice from this forum.
It only takes a 20 mile drive over two days to build up what you see in the PCV filter I rerouted out of the air intake (cause if was making such a mess)







I also notice some milky similar stuff on the bottom 1/2" of the 4" dip stick to full mark.
Could it be a cracked head that's leaking coolant into the crankcase or blow by from 320,000 kms on the original unopened engine??
Fixed the 88 XJ slow window problem by lubing up the regulators....thanks to advice from this forum.

It only takes a 20 mile drive over two days to build up what you see in the PCV filter I rerouted out of the air intake (cause if was making such a mess)








I also notice some milky similar stuff on the bottom 1/2" of the 4" dip stick to full mark.
Could it be a cracked head that's leaking coolant into the crankcase or blow by from 320,000 kms on the original unopened engine??
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 530
Likes: 0
From: Nevada City, California
Year: 2K
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 with Mustang fuel injectors; 60mm Throttle Body;
The front wheel bearings were the first things I changed out when I got the Jeep this last spring.
Did a real "OK, where is this sound coming from test" and it could be coming from the rear. Hard to tell but I am not as sure as I was that it is coming from the front.
That being said, I do believe that it is the pinion bearing problem and it must be the rear right?
So that being said what is the best choice (company, brand) to get to replace the pinion bearing in a Ch 8.25 29 spline differential.
Did a real "OK, where is this sound coming from test" and it could be coming from the rear. Hard to tell but I am not as sure as I was that it is coming from the front.
That being said, I do believe that it is the pinion bearing problem and it must be the rear right?
So that being said what is the best choice (company, brand) to get to replace the pinion bearing in a Ch 8.25 29 spline differential.
my brother in law has a 89 cherokee with a 4.0 it was building ALOT of pressure in the cooling system, it blew up the upper hose then he put new hose and a reservoir, then i got it , i put thermostat since it didnt have one, and a waterpump incase it was not spinning, and pulled the radiator and had it flow checked and it was plugged, so i replaced it, IT DIDNT change at all, looking for some info .......
my brother in law has a 89 cherokee with a 4.0 it was building ALOT of pressure in the cooling system, it blew up the upper hose then he put new hose and a reservoir, then i got it , i put thermostat since it didnt have one, and a waterpump incase it was not spinning, and pulled the radiator and had it flow checked and it was plugged, so i replaced it, IT DIDNT change at all, looking for some info .......
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
I've got the 89 XJ fixed up now and running great except for one problem.
Fixed the 88 XJ slow window problem by lubing up the regulators....thanks to advice from this forum.
It only takes a 20 mile drive over two days to build up what you see in the PCV filter I rerouted out of the air intake (cause if was making such a mess)
I also notice some milky similar stuff on the bottom 1/2" of the 4" dip stick to full mark.
Could it be a cracked head that's leaking coolant into the crankcase or blow by from 320,000 kms on the original unopened engine??
Fixed the 88 XJ slow window problem by lubing up the regulators....thanks to advice from this forum.

It only takes a 20 mile drive over two days to build up what you see in the PCV filter I rerouted out of the air intake (cause if was making such a mess)

I also notice some milky similar stuff on the bottom 1/2" of the 4" dip stick to full mark.
Could it be a cracked head that's leaking coolant into the crankcase or blow by from 320,000 kms on the original unopened engine??

i've got 260000 on the clock and in my filtering system (similiar to yours) i get ca. half liter of mayo every 300 km, but the oil in the engine is clean. In your case i guess it is a coolant leak. Try to tighten the head bolts 1/8 of turn each and change the oil.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
The front wheel bearings were the first things I changed out when I got the Jeep this last spring.
Did a real "OK, where is this sound coming from test" and it could be coming from the rear. Hard to tell but I am not as sure as I was that it is coming from the front.
That being said, I do believe that it is the pinion bearing problem and it must be the rear right?
So that being said what is the best choice (company, brand) to get to replace the pinion bearing in a Ch 8.25 29 spline differential.
Did a real "OK, where is this sound coming from test" and it could be coming from the rear. Hard to tell but I am not as sure as I was that it is coming from the front.
That being said, I do believe that it is the pinion bearing problem and it must be the rear right?
So that being said what is the best choice (company, brand) to get to replace the pinion bearing in a Ch 8.25 29 spline differential.
I suggest you visit some JY around you and buy a whole axle, that is prolly the cheapest fix.
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
It is fairly simple once you get the molding off the inside of the lift gate. First remove the wiper off the rear window, then cautiously pop the collar off which will allow you to get to the required nut. After that carefully pry the interior plastic molding off, then you must peel back the factory plastic sheeting. Then just remove the motor the two bolts are fairly easy to locate, you might just have to move a few wires around to get a wrench on them.
Before you drop a ton of cash, go over every inch of brake line and make sure there are no leaks. Then, COMPLETELY bleed the entire brake system (gravity bleed or brake fluid pump AKA brake flush machine), including the ABS motor. Some of these systems are a royal pain in the a$$ to get all the air out. If the pedal still drops, then replace the booster...
Ben
☠ CF Sheriff ☠

Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 15,197
Likes: 18
From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
Ok so ive been searching around and found some stuff. People are saying that it will be better to replace the abs with just power brakes. IMHO, i really dont care if i have abs or not. Just wondering how hard it would be to remove the complete abs system. Thanks for the suggestions too. I bled the brakes and there was a bit of air in the lines. But they still didnt work because the abs pump was not working. I got it to work but it won't turn off now so im just wanting to do strictly power brakes. Thanks
Ben
Ben




