Yes it will disable it but then it will not have any pressure in the system and i will run into the same problem i had before, 60-0 in 4200 feet...

 

That is NOT an ABS problem, that's a brake booster / leak in the system problem. They are independently operating systems (kind-of). If your abs system were to fail/be turned off, there would be no impact on your braking ability - a major safety requirement for all vehicles with ABS. You need a new booster - Period. Whether you grab one from a JY or buy a new one is up to you.

 

Mine use to be 40-60 at start up and stay at 40 unless high rev. Now it's 70-80. It don't go down on warm up. It stays high now. And the ticking just started. I hate taking it to a shop bc I go to school for this stuff. But I've never actually worked on the engine of a jeep yet. And I hate th ticking I won't drive it bc of that. I was just wondering If anyone has any idea what the tick could be.

Also the lifter wouldn't just start to tick bc of not even oil for 60 miles would it?

 

The ticking and higher oil pressure is an indication of possible blocked oil passages. I'd look into running some seafoam or other cleaner through the engine next oil change (leave seaform in crankcase for 30-50miles max). I am a recent big fan of Auto-RX - it's pricey but does an amazing job cleaning up engine oil passages - just put it in and leave it alone.

You may want to consider switching to a different grade oil also. You should be running 5w-30 oil preferably for the least strain on the engine and best flow.

 

Hi jeep maniacs,
My son and me are new jeep owners. 1998 cherokee sport. I need to replace the front axel shaft u-joints. I was looking for a how to video on front axel shaft ujoint replacment. I can do it but wanted to see if there are any tricks or things to watch ot for. Thanks for your time and responce.

 

But what about the fact that when my abs pump is on, my brakes work?... I have an extra brake booster, just don't know if it works. So you're saying put that other booster in?

 

If you know how to change a front D30 hub bearing, and can change a u-joint then doing axle shaft u-joints will be a breeze for you. You pretty much take the front axle apart like you're doing wheel bearings and once its all apart you pull the axle shafts out, replace the u-joints and put it all back together.

Assuming you don't have seized bolts, a hub seized to a knuckle, and don't hit any major hang-ups it could all easily be done in under 2 hours.

 

I'm not trying doubt you or anything. I'm just trying to figure this out. But wouldn't I have higher oil pressure before I did the oil change if I had a blocked passage?

 

Ok, sounds good, thx for the reply. Love the jeep so far. working on it has been a pleasure.

 

The Bendix 9 ABS system does not have a vacuum activated brake booster. The power assist is provided by the hydraulic pump and two accumulators.
Once the pump has been fixed it needs to be bleeded with a particular procedure.
I suggest that those who have this system read the numerous writeups regarding the issue.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_bendix9.htm

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ben...-system-14960/
post 13.

 

Hey,

Seems like only place I can get a straight up answer... Will a 32x11.5x15 tire fit a stock '97 grand cherokee, if not...what needs to be done so it can? Thanks!

 

no it won't. Max tire size you can fir with stock lift is 235/75R15 unless trimmed or lifted. You would need a 3-4" lift and/or trimming of fenders to fit those tires

 

Ok thanks for correcting that. But if he is not stopping pretty much at all like he said, I can't see the abs pump being the culprit. He would still have a mechanical (non-power assist) way of stopping the vehicle if this were the case. The fact that he can't build ANY sort of pressure to the brakes points to a leak somewhere IMO.

 

The pump serves both ABS and power assist, but if the pedal goes down it is probably a master/seal prob..