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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
i am referring to the berrymans b12-chemtool it is mainly used for carb and throttle body cleaning but its old school and the guy helping me build the jeep is an old school guy but i haven't tried seafoam, seen about it alot on here though, thanks for the help
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 41
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Former Sponsor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 1
From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
On the first one, there's lots of images on the 'net that will help with visually identifying the axle, but generally, the d35 has a round or egg-shaped cover and the d44 is more 'stop sign' shaped. Both will be marked somewhere on the diff with a 'd44' or a 'd35' (or a variant there of, such as 'd35c' for the c-clip version). I've got a parts '89 with a reciever and it has a d35. As far as I can figure, d44s are so rare that it's a fairly safe bet it's a 35 anyway, unless you got lucky. Good news is that it won't be a D30 in the rear, those were only in wranglers. The D30 is, however, up front in ALL cherokees, your only debate is whether it has vacume disconnects or not, which I've heard are the weakest link in them. EVen then, you run them til they break and then throw in solid shafts, which are cheaper and more reliable.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
hi new to the site hope you guys can lend a hand. i have a 1998 jeep cherokee that has been a pain in my side for several months now ive had it in 3 diffrent shops and payed 3 diffrent bills all to have the same problem. my problem while driving and keeping the throttle at a constant it will almost back out for a sec and if i dont give more throttle it will continue but if a give throttle it will take off. it seem to do this between 2 and 3 thousand rpms but im not for shure if thats the only time it will do it but it does not turn off the radio stays on and lights also. the check engine light is on. the codes are p0123 tps sensor a circuit high input, p0122 tps sensor a circuit low input,p1694 malfunction auxilary input/ output,and p0715 input turbine speed sensor a circut. this is what has been replaced and done to it new ecm, new tps, spark plugs & wires, rotor cap and button. ive check the sweep on the tps with a volt meter it seem to sweep fine but one thing i do notice is. that the signal wire comeing from the ecm send 5 volts also when it is unpluged i dont believe this is right by looking at some stuff online. if anyone can help it would be greatly appricated.
thanks
josh
thanks
josh
Regaring your problem, i suggest you check the fuel pressure. Go to Napa or another parts store and borrow a pressure gauge. What you have to do is plug the gauge to the rail and test drive the jeep, notice the pressure when the engine backs out. If it is low, you have either a clogged fuel filter, or a bad fuel pump.
In my experience with the injection system on these engines i know that if the fuel mix is rich, i mean very rich, it will still run strong but smoke a lot and idle bad, if it is lean you will have a little cut out in the power around max torque but idle will be fine.
All these symptoms are noticeable when accelerating, but since you say it happens at cruise speed, where the tps is not being moved, i would investigate fuel pump in primis, and CPS in secundis.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
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Last week when I was swapping out my D35 for the 8.25 it dawned on me that they have the EXACT SAME drum brakes, from the drum size, to the bleeder location, and size to even the inspection port.
From what I can figure, Dana shipped Chrysler an axle that didn't have brakes on it and Chrysler put their drum brakes on the axle(my old D35 was assembled in like 1989 or 1990 and the 8.25 is out of a 99 XJ)
On the first one, there's lots of images on the 'net that will help with visually identifying the axle, but generally, the d35 has a round or egg-shaped cover and the d44 is more 'stop sign' shaped. Both will be marked somewhere on the diff with a 'd44' or a 'd35' (or a variant there of, such as 'd35c' for the c-clip version). I've got a parts '89 with a reciever and it has a d35. As far as I can figure, d44s are so rare that it's a fairly safe bet it's a 35 anyway, unless you got lucky. Good news is that it won't be a D30 in the rear, those were only in wranglers. The D30 is, however, up front in ALL cherokees, your only debate is whether it has vacume disconnects or not, which I've heard are the weakest link in them. EVen then, you run them til they break and then throw in solid shafts, which are cheaper and more reliable.
Doesn't really matter, though, as you will only have trouble with a D35 when you start going big with tires or are really hard with the side to side forces. My wife's grand cherokee has a d35c with 280k on it, and I finally had to replace a shaft due to wear, and only, I suspect, because the diff fluid was low. The rest of it is fine as far as I can tell, and she's not always easy on her jeep. The only thing I don't like is that the bearing wears directly on the shaft instead of having an inner race that's replacible, but what can you do? If you're daily driving with it, it doesn't matter what's back there if it works, and if you're building a off road rig, you'll probibly find an axle that's already built for far cheaper and less hassle than than building up either a D44 or D35. I've been dealing with this myself, and the guys I've been wheeling with gave me an ultimatium this weekend that a D44 wouldn't help with: I have to build a rig capible of pulling thiers out to be fair, and a D44 would be borderline. As such, an entire rig that's already built up and trail ready is on par with buying the parts and building it myself these days.
Oh, and I should mention that I've looked over hundreds of cherokees and grand cherokees, own 4 myself, and have never seen a stock D44, that's how rare they are... not that you can't find them in other vehicles, but then why not go with a d60, which is much more common? Anyway.
One last note on axles: there's a hundred ways to spend your money on the axles: gearing, lockers, stronger shafts, different splined shafts, reinforced third members, CV joints, reinforcement, etc etc etc. The biggest thing I've learned is that if they're working and doing what they're supposed to, don't worry about replacing things til they break! I've run my jeeps bone stock on 676 trail, shoestring, funnyrocks, and moonrocks (local stomping grounds), kept up with far better rigs, and didn't really break anything... except a shock and a window, but no amount of upgrades are going to prevent that, it's all in how you drive and where. I'll probibly keep on going, only improving things that I have to to keep having fun, and when an axle shaft breaks, THEN I'll worry about whether or not to put expensive upgrades in, otherwise I'll have a stock shaft (or a whole set) sitting around doing no good. I guess one school of thought says they'd make good trail spares, but if that's the case, why did you spend so much on upgrades if they're going to break too? (besides lugging around 4 shafts and whatever other parts for "trail spares")
Doesn't really matter, though, as you will only have trouble with a D35 when you start going big with tires or are really hard with the side to side forces. My wife's grand cherokee has a d35c with 280k on it, and I finally had to replace a shaft due to wear, and only, I suspect, because the diff fluid was low. The rest of it is fine as far as I can tell, and she's not always easy on her jeep. The only thing I don't like is that the bearing wears directly on the shaft instead of having an inner race that's replacible, but what can you do? If you're daily driving with it, it doesn't matter what's back there if it works, and if you're building a off road rig, you'll probibly find an axle that's already built for far cheaper and less hassle than than building up either a D44 or D35. I've been dealing with this myself, and the guys I've been wheeling with gave me an ultimatium this weekend that a D44 wouldn't help with: I have to build a rig capible of pulling thiers out to be fair, and a D44 would be borderline. As such, an entire rig that's already built up and trail ready is on par with buying the parts and building it myself these days.
Oh, and I should mention that I've looked over hundreds of cherokees and grand cherokees, own 4 myself, and have never seen a stock D44, that's how rare they are... not that you can't find them in other vehicles, but then why not go with a d60, which is much more common? Anyway.
One last note on axles: there's a hundred ways to spend your money on the axles: gearing, lockers, stronger shafts, different splined shafts, reinforced third members, CV joints, reinforcement, etc etc etc. The biggest thing I've learned is that if they're working and doing what they're supposed to, don't worry about replacing things til they break! I've run my jeeps bone stock on 676 trail, shoestring, funnyrocks, and moonrocks (local stomping grounds), kept up with far better rigs, and didn't really break anything... except a shock and a window, but no amount of upgrades are going to prevent that, it's all in how you drive and where. I'll probibly keep on going, only improving things that I have to to keep having fun, and when an axle shaft breaks, THEN I'll worry about whether or not to put expensive upgrades in, otherwise I'll have a stock shaft (or a whole set) sitting around doing no good. I guess one school of thought says they'd make good trail spares, but if that's the case, why did you spend so much on upgrades if they're going to break too? (besides lugging around 4 shafts and whatever other parts for "trail spares")
There's also a pretty decent chance that he got a 27 spline Chrysler 8.25 rear axle, which is only marginally stronger than a Dana 35 at best.
Most Wranglers(YJs, TJs, JKs) have Dana 30s in the Front and D35s in the rear, the exception to that rule is the D44/D30 Hybrid(Front) and D44(rear) axles found in the Rubicon Model Wranglers.
Moving on; There are quite a few reasons to chose a D44/Ford8.8/Ford9" over a Dana 60.
First being that a well built version of any of those axles can more than handle 35 inch tires. Most people with Cherokees will never run anything larger than a 35, which is well within the capabilities of a 3/4 ton axle.
Secondly a Dana 60 has a pretty big pumpkin, which tends to get caught on stuff if you have tires that are anything smaller than a 35.
Quite a few Grand Cherokees with the V8 engines had Aluminum Dana44s stock, and numerous Ford, Dodge and Chevy Trucks have had Dana 44s in the rear over the years. They're next to impossible to find in a Cherokee though.
I don't know who/where you're buying stuff from, but custom building a Jeep is way way cheaper than buying an already built one or paying someone to build one for you. Plus you know its done right, end up buying tools you can use in the future and learn skills that nobody can ever take away from you(unless they kill or maim you of course)
Last but not least: Trail spares; **** happens, carrying spare axle shafts/ujoints/driveshafts/tires/etc is ALWAYS a smart idea. I know from experience that it sucks big time to break something on trail and not have a spare with you. Whats it going to hurt to throw an extra 80 pounds of parts and tools in your Jeep when you go wheeling?
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 5
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
Yupp it does indeed.
Last week when I was swapping out my D35 for the 8.25 it dawned on me that they have the EXACT SAME drum brakes, from the drum size, to the bleeder location, and size to even the inspection port.
From what I can figure, Dana shipped Chrysler an axle that didn't have brakes on it and Chrysler put their drum brakes on the axle(my old D35 was assembled in like 1989 or 1990 and the 8.25 is out of a 99 XJ)
Last week when I was swapping out my D35 for the 8.25 it dawned on me that they have the EXACT SAME drum brakes, from the drum size, to the bleeder location, and size to even the inspection port.
From what I can figure, Dana shipped Chrysler an axle that didn't have brakes on it and Chrysler put their drum brakes on the axle(my old D35 was assembled in like 1989 or 1990 and the 8.25 is out of a 99 XJ)
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
I don't know who/where you're buying stuff from, but custom building a Jeep is way way cheaper than buying an already built one or paying someone to build one for you. Plus you know its done right, end up buying tools you can use in the future and learn skills that nobody can ever take away from you(unless they kill or maim you of course)
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: NE Ohio
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0litre
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Central Washington
Year: 91 xj, 93 xj, 93 zj, 94 zj
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2x I6, 2x v8
Good to know, it explains why the axle had a limited slip in it stock, which confused me.
Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO from a 91 Comanche.
88' Rebuild, tech question fuel pump not coming on when warm
I have a question for those more experienced with Chrysler computers than me; I have an '88 4.0L automatic 4x4 that I put a '91 4.0L HO into, which drove 65 miles wonderfully then died, the rpm had dropped whenever I hit a bump before that. I replaced a number of things, whether or not I fixed the problem is as of yet unknown, it now has a very clear problem, when it is cold it will crank up, when it warms up the fuel pump doesn't come on, but the fuel pump relay clicks like a thousand shrimp orchestra, is there a fuel pressure sensor that could be sticking when warm? I don't know what else it could be besides the PCM.
~Chris~
~Chris~
Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO from a 91 Comanche.