Might want to take it back to the place that put the transmission in and see what they say about it. Could be something in the trans wrong. My dad had 3 different rebuilt engines put in his mountaineer before they got one without problems. Seems people who rebuild things just don't do a quality job.

 

Hi,
I pulled engine for rebuild since it was getting coolant in oil. 192k miles bought it couple months ago knowing a rebuild was coming. It came sooner than expected when i noticed the oil level rising after a couple weeks of it using a gallon of coolant per week.
So, reputable machine shop tore engine apart and said it had a newer head gasket that was good and properly torqued. 0630 head tested no cracks.
I gave them my intake to clean and they found a crack in it under the TB on plenum. ill post pic. They said a "jeep 4.0 expert" they called said he has seen this intake crack issue before. Its allows moisture/ condensation into the crankcase through the CCV system apparently. Im trying to wrap my head around how it could affect coolant in oil condition. Valve train looked like it was slathered in butterscotch caramel.
My question is have you ever seen an intake crack like this? Would it contribute to coolant in oil considering the engine shop says engine and head are fine with the exception of being "dirty/sludgy" inside?
I thought it was a casting mark but maybe not. Crack is not all the way thru.
What else could allow that much coolant to be used? The crankcase oil was only rising for a short time ( couple days) i checked oil often before that with no change except coolant loss by the gallon weekly.
I have already found a used intake to compare and use after the machine shop is done.

 

That is not a crack. That's a casting mark. I have seen dozens and dozens of intake manifolds with exact same mark, in same shape and location.

 

hey thanks xjwonders. I thought it looked like a casting mark too but wanted to be sure.

 

The engine draws air out from under the valve cover through a fitting in the intake manifold. It doesn't go the other way around.

Moisture DOES enter the system via the CCV. It comes in with fresh air from the air cleaner during normal operation. Minor condensation can cause a milkiness under the valve cover if you never let the engine get up to temperature and evaporate the accumulated moisture. To cause the oil level to rise you'd need to be driving it underwater.

My 1999 also has the same mark.

Oil analysis indeed showed there was coolant (glycol) in the oil, correct?

 

My 2001 sport starts fine and runs well for about 2 minutes. If I let it sit it starts again but only for a minute or so. The fuel pump does run when I turn the key. I have check all fuses and relays that pertain.

 

I've searched everywhere I can't find the exact same description. So I wanted to post here.

I have a 1995 Jeep Cherokee XJ. In a medium snow storm recently I stopped at a light on a 45 degree slope. I hit the gas and the front wheels weren't engaged. I only felt spinning in the rear. I disengaged the Shifter to 2wd then moved it back to 4Hi same result. I got home on a flat surface and tried it again with the same result, however there now was a loud clanking noise coming from the undercarriage speeding up with accelerating if 4hi or 4low was engaged. I checked the linkage to the tcase it was all adjusted correctly as the lever was engaging perfectly to the tcase without any issues and visually looked fine. The Part time indicator on the dash is working perfectly with every shift to 4hi or 4low. The front wheels just do not want to engage. I assumed it was the Tcase. But because the indicator, linkage, and all the simple items are working I thought possibly it could be an issue with the front differential or driveshaft? Any thoughts? The front dif had a recent fluid change, the tcase as well.

 

Are you shifting like this?

And, are your engine and trans mounts in good shape? If not, they can affect the linkage adjustment.

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in CAPS are mine.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I LET OFF THE GAS, THROW THE LEVER, TAP THE GAS AND LET OFF.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

TO SHIFT OUT OF 4L, SHIFT THE TRANSMISSION INTO NEUTRAL WITH THE VEHICLE STOPPED, SHIFT THE TRANSFER CASE LEVER TO 2H, THEN THE TRANS TO D IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC, OR INTO FIRST GEAR WITH A MANUAL, AND CONTINUE ON.

Revised 11/20/2014

 

Anybody know where I can find motors for my power driver seat?

 

I would check the junkyard before anything else. Buying them new will most likely be expensive. After that, try Rockauto (a lot of times, if you do a factory part number search, you can find NOS or OEM), or a 3rd party NOS dealer like moparpartsoverstock.com, etc. Ebay and Amazon are also an option, but it helps if you know the part numbers.

 

Am I supposed to remove this rubber part before installing my replacement steering box? The old one doesn't appear to have one (and maybe that's why I am having problems)

 

Hi all - first post, I just picked up a 2000 XJ Sport. Problem that I'm running into is that I'm tall, and the seat's fixed headrest only comes up to the middle of my neck - my head doesn't even touch the thing. Is there an aftermarket bolt-in seat I could look at? Current setup would be no bueno if I got rear-ended.

 

Hey Wizard,
I don't think I have seen a rubber bushing like that on any saginaw style steering box (new or factory)

I would assume you need to take that off, but it may be some sort of a dust boot? The pitman arm won't sit that high on the splines anyway so you could try to install it, and worst case just drop the pitman arm and remove the rubber piece.

 

Hey Adger, welcome to the forums and congrats on your Jeep purchase! There are LOTS of (expensive) aftermarket bolt-ins, but what a lot of people end up doing is sourcing a set of seats from a Grand Cherokee. 96-98 have adjustable head rests. All you have to do is swap the seat sliders from your current seats to the ZJ seats. Other options are neon seats, and there is a senior forum member here named RONINOFAKO who adapted the sliders to a set of Tiburon seats and he says it's one of the best mods he's ever done. Much more comfortable on long trips and holds him in place better.

 

Thanks Basslicks! I think the ZJ seats will be just what I'm looking for off the bat - the Tiburon seats sound nice, but for now I just want to get something safer in there ASAP. Are both front seats bolt-ins as long as I get the rails with the ZJ seats?

If I may, a couple of additional questions... #1, are there any better rear seats that might also bolt in? Have 2 sons, therefore 2 car seats. Looking for something with top tether anchors and head rests. Unfortunately I don't have the facilities, skills, or connections yet to do any fabrication, so I'm hoping I can find something that's a simple swap.

#2 - Since I'll be picking from a ZJ anyway, are there any other parts that I should snag from it that might be beneficial to my XJ? Thanks so much, and Merry Christmas!