Easiest? Or most economical (bang for your buck)?

Easiest would be buying brand new stock leaf packs and front coil spring but you're probably gonna pay an arm and a leg... Most cost efficient? Buy some used ones that arent sagging bad and put them on... You might as well just wait till you can get a lift if you are planning on lifting it and replace it all at once.

 

I have a tech question for anyone who knows; How do you test a MAP sensor? I have a multimeter, but I don't know what the resistance on the various poles are supposed to be, does anyone know where this data is at?

 

Thanks for the response, if I'm looking for a used Jeep then to take parts from does it have to be a sport model or are the rear leaf springs all the same for any Cherokee? Also, if I get a lift will the back still be sagging compared to the front? What about Add-A-Leaf options? Those seem to be cheap and easy, and little lift kits seem to only come with spacers for the front and add a leaf for the back. So if it sags enough (like 1.5") will Add-A-Leaf for the rear springs be a good fix? Thanks again for replying and helping, I'm a noob

 

If your rear springs are sagging and your front coils are not and you put a 3" add a leaf (or whatever size you want) then you are not going to get a full 3" out of the rear but you will in the front because you are replacing the front coils. I do believe that all leafs are the same as far as how they mount BUT I do believe that there were some packages other than sport that had stouter leaf packs... It would not hurt (read, would help) to find out which model had these and pull leafs from that model... You could get an add a leaf for the rear (lets say 3" just for the hell of it) and then see how much it actually lifts it (lets say 2.5") then that will tell you what size coils you need for the front... Or you could just get a lift with full leaf packs and not have to worry about it... Remember though, every individual Jeep is different, what works for some doesnt for others and all Jeeps pretty much have a different out come even if built the exact same.

 

What octane should I be running in my 92 4.0?

Thanks,
Codfish

 

Will a Dana 44 off an old postal Jeep DJ5 fit on my 97 XJ?

 

Thank you for the help. I have bypassed the Ballast resistor, replaced the cps, tps,fuel filter, fuel pump relay and fuel pump she is still being troublesome. I am lost here, do I need the ballast resistor? I have read where others have bypassed it with no problems other than the fuel pump running a little louder.

 

Question for you guys who have bastard packed. What u-bolts have you used when done? If I remember correctly on my last XJ, I ended up using 86' F250 bolts or something to that nature. Just curious.

 

Thanks for all of the info I needed. I will just replace the Clutch Master cyl and SLAVE cyl.

 

great to finally find a place that might be able to help....i need to pull the dash outta this jeeo and replace it...not just the pad the whole thing...is there a diagram someone may have where i can see where all the screws are and such....thanks ALOT in advance

 

MY JEEP WONT FIRE!!!!! i recently swapped my 1992 loredo with a new engine after my old one threw a rod. i got everything all hooked up. forgot about the crank shaft postioner but finally got it hooked up. the new engine is out of a 91 but was still the 4.0 high output. there is not many differences. i pulled out all of my plugs and tested them. and spark in every one. and i have fuel in my fuel rail. bbut it will crank forever but will not turn over. please help any suggestions will help me i have swapped my dist and my fuel rail also so i don't think its those.

thanks,

 

check the vacuum hoses that go to and from the evaporative canister.

 

You can add leafs to make it sit higher, but it will stiffen the ride. Some lift kits, as you mention, come with either short or full length AALs. Another solution is a bastard pack that cosists of adding 1 or 2 main leafs out of a JY leaf pack, usually a cherokee or a S10.

 

First of all, check the vacuum feed to it. The MAP sensor has three wires: a +5volt feed purple-white wire), ground and a 5-0volt output. when you give gas the manifold pressure changes and the MAP tells the computer to adjust injector pulse time.
So how do you test it? With the engine running, tester in cc voltmeter mode, end scale 12volts, negative lead of the tester to ground, positive to the purple/wh wire to test the 5v feed.
Then put the positive to the red wire and give gas from the throttle body, notice the volts decrease. If the measurements are between 4.7 and 0.2 it is fine.

 

anything between 95 and 100 works fine.