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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 08:04 PM
  #9556  
Disoriented Hillbilly's Avatar
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From: chillicothe, OH
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by 96xjclassic

I think because they are different sizes you can't mess it up.
The difference between 5/8 and 3/8 is minimal and one of the factory hoses was like 11/32. The hcv has four 5/8ish nipples so that i am not concerned with. What i am concerned with is if the in and out are right. Fwiw-i was having probs with guage readings before i removed hcv (which was 2 weeks old and leaking already) and burped system. Now holdin steady at 210ish. No matter if how i have it is wrong, it is working fine. I just wanna know if i actually have it right or not.
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 08:15 PM
  #9557  
Disoriented Hillbilly's Avatar
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From: chillicothe, OH
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by 96xjclassic
Does it work? I don't think it is directional.
Yup. Works fine. Great heat. Hoses all get hot. I DO NOW realize that it is backward. I tested the hcv to see how it worked and slapped old hoses back on it to check configuration. I do have it backwards. The tstat hose goes to bottom nipple. The wtr pmp goes to top. Doesnt seem to matter tho. Whoodathunkit.
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 08:47 PM
  #9558  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by dukie564

easiest thing would be to take the headlights and headlight buckets out, then undo the latch hoop bolts

Where the bucket screws in

hood latch bolts
Do you have every picture o every question stashed somewhere, just curious lol
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 08:48 PM
  #9559  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by jx2991

Don't budge on your price. If it's in the shape you say, it's quite a deal at $2500 in my opinion. You can't touch a Wrangler (any year, any conditon) for under $3500 in my area.
This is true especially if it's an automatic it's worth more cause many in my area are manual
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 08:49 PM
  #9560  
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From: Frederick, Maryland
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Do you have every picture o every question stashed somewhere, just curious lol
He pays rent at NASA to store all his files!
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 08:53 PM
  #9561  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by 96xjclassic

He pays rent at NASA to store all his files!
I'm not sure if their computers are big enough
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 10:31 PM
  #9562  
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bfg
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Default slight lift question

Hi guys, noticed it had been awhile since anyones posted in this thread, but I have a question to ask about lifting my cherokee. I've done some research and now understand and know that blocks are a no-no for lifting the rear of my jeep, and I've also been told by several that aal lifts dont last and end up sagging if your rear end already is starting to sag. My jeep isn't dragging its butt like alot of factory cherokees end up, but the rear is slightly lower than it was originally, maybe 1/2" lower. Anyways, I was looking at putting in 2" spacers in the front and getting the 2.5" rubicon express add-a-leaf to put in the rear. Since I've read that leaf add ons don't last and can start sagging themselves, I thought maybe I'd do extended shackles, but someone told me that will wear out the leaf springs quicker as well..
All that said, What is the type of lift I should do in the rear to avoid future sagging, give me the lift I want, a nice feeling ride, and not too much of a dent in my pocket??
Thanks for any replies!

Ps, I'm planning on doing bar pin eliminators to avoid spending a fortune on longer performance shocks...
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 10:39 PM
  #9563  
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Well the best way to lift the rear is a full leaf pack. since you mentioned Rubicon Express, they make lifts with full packs, starting at 3.5" they retail for around $760 however, Serious Offroad has them for less and with free shipping. But just about every manufacturer makes full leaf packs for anything 3" and up.

Hope this helps!
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 11:11 PM
  #9564  
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bfg
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Thanks for the reply Skyline,
That helped alot
So here's what I'm thinking about purchasing:

OME 2" lift medium load leaf spring pack $120.00
2" urethane front spring spacers $50.00
front and rear bar pin eliminators $50.00
and main eye and shackle end leaf spring bushings $20.00
Figuring I can get replacement shackle and main eye bolts at the autoparts store...

is this sufficient or am I overlooking something important?

I'm not a big time offroader, just going for a nice look on my cherokee.
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 11:38 PM
  #9565  
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From: Ashburn, VA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by bfg
Thanks for the reply Skyline,
That helped alot
So here's what I'm thinking about purchasing:

OME 2" lift medium load leaf spring pack $120.00
2" urethane front spring spacers $50.00
front and rear bar pin eliminators $50.00
and main eye and shackle end leaf spring bushings $20.00
Figuring I can get replacement shackle and main eye bolts at the autoparts store...

is this sufficient or am I overlooking something important?

I'm not a big time offroader, just going for a nice look on my cherokee.
Another option is to get RC shackle relocation kit $120. This will help with new shackles/leafs. I use them on mine and it makes a big difference. Just a thought..good luck
Old Feb 1, 2012 | 10:41 PM
  #9566  
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From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
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Has anybody ever swapped the front electric window motors for a manual, roll down system? I want to do the doorless mod eventually and I only really need electric windows for the rear two doors. Would swapping be a direct fit?
Old Feb 2, 2012 | 06:12 AM
  #9567  
t&l81cj5's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 9
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From: Schoolcraft, MI
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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I have an 89 cherokee sport and the automatic trans has some significant shifting issue, want to swap it out, what years will be a bolt in replacement?
far as I know it is a stock 89 with the 4.0l and the aw4 auto trans 4x4.
Or should I just get it out and rebuild?
Old Feb 2, 2012 | 06:23 AM
  #9568  
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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What issue are you having? It could end up being an easy fix to save you time and money.
Old Feb 2, 2012 | 07:54 AM
  #9569  
t&l81cj5's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Schoolcraft, MI
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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po had son change engine oil, son drained trans, filled engine with 6 more quarts of oil, test drove, 4 miles, dad drained 12 quarts from engine, changed filter and added correct oil to engine, changed filter on trans added correct amount of fluid to trans.
Sitting for several years, now won't shift on time and never goes into OD, regular driving 1-2 shift about 3000 rpm 2-3 about 4000 rpm 3-4 hasn't yet happened.
Old Feb 2, 2012 | 01:15 PM
  #9570  
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Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Central Arkansas
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by t&l81cj5
po had son change engine oil, son drained trans, filled engine with 6 more quarts of oil, test drove, 4 miles, dad drained 12 quarts from engine, changed filter and added correct oil to engine, changed filter on trans added correct amount of fluid to trans.
Sitting for several years, now won't shift on time and never goes into OD, regular driving 1-2 shift about 3000 rpm 2-3 about 4000 rpm 3-4 hasn't yet happened.
Holy crap



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