100% on a dying battery (or one on it's way out). Mine did the same a few months ago - if the starter doesn't have enough CCAs, the relay just clicks like that. That's why taking the fan (a high amp item) out of the loop allowed you to start it.

Go get it load tested that should tell you for sure, but I'd plan on buying a new battery very soon. I went with a Duralast Gold

 

My battery is only a couple months old (from Advance, I think their Gold line). I bought it when he told me my battery was bad before, and it didn't fix my delayed start issue. I'll add that to my list of chores today and tell my guy I want a replacement.

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/pr...n-94-xj-27850/

Clayton and Rock Krawler sell kits also
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/112
http://rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog...p?r_itemID=207

 

could be because of the grounding issue we discussed too, or a bad wire. Get it load tested.

 

Good day fellow XJ's, (my terminology may be incorrect, but it's the part I see)
My situation is this: After purchasing/rebuilding/using Snow Buster for a work vehicle going 100 miles a day the last 3 years to preserve my summer cruizer, I used her for off roading in the summer months, and was not real kind to her...
The floor/frame was rotted thru behind the drivers seat when I bought her and rebuilt the area with the side panel off a 2 ton flatbed/dump truck box, utilizing the rib along the outside as the reinforcement inside the old frame rail, welded the plate along the rocker, and tying to the firewall & tunnel with the remaining 1/8" plate steel. {from firewall to rear seat frame panel} Welding along the remaining frame rail as much as possible on the bottom, but the drivers rear shackle box has now ripped out of the floor/frame, leaving the axle 1.5" rearward on that side... {ok... prolly shoulda locked the in 4x4 first, but after being swallowed by a hole at the top of the hill and backing out twice in 2x, the 4x4 (and right foot) hooked up well enough to launch us over the top, full-on airborne outta the hole!}
Sooo, I hooked a come-along to the shackle box and the front link anchor and was able to reline the two axles, but here's the question. {sorry for the long history, but you need a feel for what is left to try to fix)

Is it possible to lay in 3" x 4" x 1/8" steel channel from the front link pillar, along the outside the remaining frame rail, and welding it to the front of the shackle box? I've got a GM crate 3.4 V6 in her and it's a hill monster, so I'm hoping my ingenuity and somewhat technique for re-engineering will save my girl for a few more years, so any feedback will be greatly appreciated!
I'd hate to pillage my girl for the parts to make a framed 4x4, but there's another possibility...

 

ok First time here , AND a woman , but do know somethings mechanical on Jeeps and other vehicles , But I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee and the hood cable came lose under the hood , the Big problem is there has been a Kick plate Welded on in the past year .. took Jeep to a mechanic and they could not open it ????? IS there a way to open MY Hood before Truck driver Hubby comes home in 3 days

 

anything is possible, but if you're ripping off shackle boxes because of the amount of rust on the unibody, it may be time to cut your losses and look for a new one in better condition. It's only going to get worse from here on out.

 

kick plate welded where?

there's a couple methods out there for this

1) reach up with a skinny arm through the hole behind the radiator and try and reach the cross rod with your hand (needs to be pushed towards drivers side)
2) remove headlights and headlight buckets and unbolt the two bolts that hold the catch loop down, allowing the hood to pop up enough to be able to unlatch it and open

 

Other than the hood latch cable , this Jeep is in perfect condition kept garaged only has 160,000 miles on NO body rust , motor and tranny in very good condition no leaks , your telling me to get rid of it cause of a hood latch cable , like I said I'm not mechanically stupid , I do most of the work on our vehicles ,IF i could get the hood up , Just wanted to Check the OIL before we go on a trip Saturday. OOps my bad , thought you were telling me to get rid of my Jeep , ow I see you were talking to SnowBuster .. Sorrryyy

 

kick plate front and rear to protect the radiator and the gas tank . also tow hooks added and trailer hitch ,, I'll have to go by a universal tool to get that one bolt out is what I read on another forum.

 

no, that response in post #9532 wasn't directed at you.

if you're talking about factory skid plates you can remove those, but not worth it IMO. If you don't have access from below, try the second option.

 

To add to my problem starting (ticking):
I went to Advance, they tested the battery, and it checks out.

 

i'll look at it tomorrow Clown while it's up on the lift

 

Thanks, sound good.

 

The Kick plates are factory they are bolted on, I just looked , they off another wrecked Cherokee we bought for it's motor and tranny for our Wrangler that still doesn't run 3 years later .