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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 06:16 PM
  #9511  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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I've got a pile of driveline vibrations. Rear U-joint was loose so was packed with grease again, I think it just needs replacing. After it was greased a rattle showed up in the transfer case so that's on my junkyard shopping list for the spring. If I hit the clutch hard (press down) I get a bit of a thud. I'm not sure if this is transfer case related or not. It's a bit quieter so I'm not totally certain where it's coming from.

In the last couple of days, I've been getting a faint knocking at lower speeds, both accelerating and braking. It sounds like every few inches of rotation of the tires there's a bit of a knock/rattle/thud from what I think is the rear left wheel. It reminds me of a muted version of a stick or playing card jammed into a bike's spokes.

Am I on the right track thinking that this is the bearings on the rear left? Is replacing these a major job? If I had a few days, some warm weather, and the right tools I'd try to do this but if it is bearings I'm looking at getting it into the shop as soon as possible.

Thanks

edit: oops forgot this bit: ~318,000KM, C8.25 rear, stock all around.

Last edited by salad; Jan 30, 2012 at 06:17 PM. Reason: forgot specs
Old Jan 30, 2012 | 07:45 PM
  #9512  
zimbobwye's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 295
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From: Roscoe, IL
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L 242 Power Tech I6
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Originally Posted by jx2991
So, here's a strange one. My brother has a Studebaker station wagon that he put an XJ rear sway bar on (apparently it fits almost perfect). He's trying to get it to handle better. He's been asking me if there was anywhere to get a heavier duty one to stiffen it up even more. I told him probably not because every body just removes them. I told him I'd ask. Thanks!
ADDCO makes one..
http://www.quadratec.com/products/76059_801.htm

7/8" diameter, which I think, is the same as stock.. but stronger.. unless stock is just 3/4".. I'm not certain. But, I know it's stronger.
Old Jan 30, 2012 | 08:13 PM
  #9513  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
Premium Member
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Default

Originally Posted by salad
I've got a pile of driveline vibrations. Rear U-joint was loose so was packed with grease again, I think it just needs replacing. After it was greased a rattle showed up in the transfer case so that's on my junkyard shopping list for the spring. If I hit the clutch hard (press down) I get a bit of a thud. I'm not sure if this is transfer case related or not. It's a bit quieter so I'm not totally certain where it's coming from.

In the last couple of days, I've been getting a faint knocking at lower speeds, both accelerating and braking. It sounds like every few inches of rotation of the tires there's a bit of a knock/rattle/thud from what I think is the rear left wheel. It reminds me of a muted version of a stick or playing card jammed into a bike's spokes.

Am I on the right track thinking that this is the bearings on the rear left? Is replacing these a major job? If I had a few days, some warm weather, and the right tools I'd try to do this but if it is bearings I'm looking at getting it into the shop as soon as possible.

Thanks

edit: oops forgot this bit: ~318,000KM, C8.25 rear, stock all around.
Okay so after reading even more and paying close attention on the drive home with what I read in mind, I'm thinking that it's just the U-joint getting crappy again. Say I'm rolling at 60 KM/H on flat terrain in 5th gear, when I let the clutch in or out quickly I hear a clunk. I'll test when I go out again in an hour but when I pulled into my driveway just a minute ago the noise didn't happen
Old Jan 30, 2012 | 08:25 PM
  #9514  
89XJDan's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 413
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From: Murray, UT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Anyone have links to an XJ with a four link rear suspension?
Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:29 PM
  #9515  
craig-b's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 73
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From: Fraser Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
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My rad neck stripped, the cap goes on ok, but the pull up on it a bit and the cap pops off on one side. Has this happened to anybody else? Id like to know what someone did to fix it, other than replacing the whole rad.

Just trying to save myself some money, as im going to school and dont have a job right now, so money is tight.

Thanks.
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 12:09 AM
  #9516  
Bassfishertim2015's Avatar
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 950
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From: Newman, Lake WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 cold air
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Originally Posted by craig-b
My rad neck stripped, the cap goes on ok, but the pull up on it a bit and the cap pops off on one side. Has this happened to anybody else? Id like to know what someone did to fix it, other than replacing the whole rad.

Just trying to save myself some money, as im going to school and dont have a job right now, so money is tight.

Thanks.
Fixing that would be pretty difficult I would believe, since there is so much pressure there.
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 12:10 AM
  #9517  
RSWiser's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 226
Likes: 2
From: Utah
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I have my 99 Sport with 4.5" lift. I have a chance to by some 16" Rubicon Wheels with some almost new 32" tires. Friend has had them in storage since 2006.

I know I will need some of the adapters. The wheels are really deep on the backside. With the Spacer/Adapter, will these fit okay on my stock axles?

RSWiser.
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 12:20 AM
  #9518  
assetts91's Avatar
CF Veteran
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,842
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From: Woodinville, Bothell and Marysville Washington
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
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Originally Posted by RSWiser
I have my 99 Sport with 4.5" lift. I have a chance to by some 16" Rubicon Wheels with some almost new 32" tires. Friend has had them in storage since 2006.

I know I will need some of the adapters. The wheels are really deep on the backside. With the Spacer/Adapter, will these fit okay on my stock axles?

RSWiser.
Yup. They will fit just fine.... Like they were meant to be there in the first place!
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 12:25 AM
  #9519  
jx2991's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 206
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From: Kuna, ID
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by zimbobwye

ADDCO makes one..
http://www.quadratec.com/products/76059_801.htm

7/8" diameter, which I think, is the same as stock.. but stronger.. unless stock is just 3/4".. I'm not certain. But, I know it's stronger.
Hey, thanks for the info! I'll pass it along to him.
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 01:54 AM
  #9520  
craig-b's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 73
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From: Fraser Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
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Originally Posted by Bassfishertim2015
Fixing that would be pretty difficult I would believe, since there is so much pressure there.
Yeah, thought so, i guess ill just have to get a new rad.

Guess ill be hitching a ride with the rents to class now, i dont want to lose anymore coolant and potentially **** something over.
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 06:56 AM
  #9521  
Bassfishertim2015's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
From: Newman, Lake WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 cold air
Default

Originally Posted by craig-b

Yeah, thought so, i guess ill just have to get a new rad.

Guess ill be hitching a ride with the rents to class now, i dont want to lose anymore coolant and potentially **** something over.
Good luck though.
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 07:46 AM
  #9522  
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by craig-b
Yeah, thought so, i guess ill just have to get a new rad.

Guess ill be hitching a ride with the rents to class now, i dont want to lose anymore coolant and potentially **** something over.
I drove without coolant for I don't know how long, bone dry. I probably did **** something over, though, so don't be like me. Just a testament to the strength of our engines.
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 08:00 AM
  #9523  
DFlintstone's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
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Originally Posted by salad
Okay so after reading even more and paying close attention on the drive home with what I read in mind, I'm thinking that it's just the U-joint getting crappy again. Say I'm rolling at 60 KM/H on flat terrain in 5th gear, when I let the clutch in or out quickly I hear a clunk. I'll test when I go out again in an hour but when I pulled into my driveway just a minute ago the noise didn't happen
Sounds like your girl is ready for some just plain ole' TLC. 4 bolts pull the drive-line, couple U-joints $10-$20 each (here). If one looks good, save it for a rainy day. Lot's of shops offer free brake inspections. Fluids. Then with all that square you can focus on what's left. Just my $.02
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 08:11 AM
  #9524  
Disoriented Hillbilly's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,139
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From: chillicothe, OH
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Which nipple on heater core goes to tstat housing, which one to water pump, and is one of those lines supposed to be 3/4"? I am eliminating htr core valve and the po ran 5/8" hose on both. Think one is supposed to be 3/4"? Just need to know whick nipple goes to what and which one is supposed(?) to be 3/4"?
Old Jan 31, 2012 | 08:35 AM
  #9525  
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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I've spent most of this month out of the state for work, with the Jeep sitting for around 5 days at a time til I get back. After my second trip out, I got in the Jeep and drove it home normally. The next morning, I heard what sounded like very rapid ticking when I turned (and held) the key. It didn't just click once and die like I experienced before with a bad ground. It then happened again about an hour later while running errands. It was fine for two days after that, but it did it again last night after returning from another trip, and I expect it will do it when I go out there today.
For the three times it has happened so far, my fix has been to turn the heat completely off. After doing this, it has started normally, and the heat still works once it's running. I can't tell where the noise is coming from since I'm in the driver's seat.

Input?



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