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Old Oct 13, 2011 | 03:50 PM
  #7366  
dukie564's Avatar
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by Celticclove
How tight should my surp. belt be? Or how do I know it tight enough or to loose?
Old school method:

you should be able to grab the long horizontal section at the top and twist it with your fingers 90 degrees - no more no less.
Old Oct 13, 2011 | 06:10 PM
  #7367  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by SwtTater'01
its repetitive. As long as the a/c is running it is clicking. As soon as I turn it off it quits.
Hey I thought I responded to this today but I guess my phone didn't post it but if it clicks once then waits five seconds and clicks again then another five seconds that's normal that's the ac compressor cycling but if it is clicking repetitively every 1 or less then it could be something else
Old Oct 13, 2011 | 07:33 PM
  #7368  
xj guy's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Joliet, Il
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
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Might get in trouble on this one but I'll shoot for it anyway. My buddy drives an 05 ford focus, and today he said it broke down on him (didn't get all the details) he said no matter what gear it is in it acts as though it is in neutral. He had it towed to a transmission place and they are stumped as of now (pretty sure they didn't tear anything apart yet) anybody have any idea about what could be wrong? Thanks a lot!!
Old Oct 13, 2011 | 07:58 PM
  #7369  
odgreen's Avatar
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From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by xj guy
Might get in trouble on this one but I'll shoot for it anyway. My buddy drives an 05 ford focus, and today he said it broke down on him (didn't get all the details) he said no matter what gear it is in it acts as though it is in neutral. He had it towed to a transmission place and they are stumped as of now (pretty sure they didn't tear anything apart yet) anybody have any idea about what could be wrong? Thanks a lot!!
Linkage for the shifter. They are common to break. It's a cable set up.
Old Oct 13, 2011 | 07:58 PM
  #7370  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by xj guy
Might get in trouble on this one but I'll shoot for it anyway. My buddy drives an 05 ford focus, and today he said it broke down on him (didn't get all the details) he said no matter what gear it is in it acts as though it is in neutral. He had it towed to a transmission place and they are stumped as of now (pretty sure they didn't tear anything apart yet) anybody have any idea about what could be wrong? Thanks a lot!!
He drives a ford that wars wrong lol nah but if it's at a tranny places there really nothing that can be done you might be at the mercy of them. It can be a number of things but also try a google search and see what comes up. As for me I would think basics first fluid sensors and hope it's not needing rebuild
Old Oct 14, 2011 | 06:28 AM
  #7371  
Delta's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Norfolk, Va
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ho i6
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Hey guys can I get a good description or a link on how to remove the tranny I don't think Haynes does a well enough job I just want to know what to expect and what I will need
Old Oct 14, 2011 | 09:13 AM
  #7372  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by Delta
Hey guys can I get a good description or a link on how to remove the tranny I don't think Haynes does a well enough job I just want to know what to expect and what I will need
From the FSM:

TRANSMISSION AND TORQUE CONVERTER
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Drain transmission fluid and reinstall oil pan drain plug.
(3) On models with 2-piece fill tube, remove upper half of tube
(4) Disconnect cooler lines at transmission. Cooler lines have quick-disconnect fittings. Press fitting release tabs and pull cooler lines and fittings out of
case..
(5) Support engine with safety stand and support transmission with jack.
(6) Disconnect transmission and transfer case shift linkage.
(7) Remove necessary exhaust components.
(8) Disconnect vehicle speed sensor wires
(9) Mark position of front and rear propeller shafts for alignment reference. Then remove shafts from vehicle.
(10) Remove rear crossmember.
(11) Disconnect transmission shift cable at transmission. Then disconnect transmission throttle valve cable at engine.
(12) Disconnect necessary vacuum and fluid hoses.
(13) Remove transfer case from transmission.
(14) Disconnect and remove crankshaft position sensor
CAUTION: The crankshaft position sensor can be damaged during transmission removal (or installation) if the sensor is still bolted to the engine block. To avoid damage, remove the sensor before removing
the transmission.
(15) Remove starter motor.
(16) Remove bolts attaching converter to drive plate.
(17) Remove bolts attaching converter housing to engine.
(18) Secure transmission to jack with safety chains.
(19) Pull transmission rearward for access to converter. Then secure converter in pump with C-clamp or strap bolted to converter housing.
(20) Remove transmission from under vehicle.
(21) Remove torque converter if converter or oil pump seal are to be serviced.
TRANSMISSION AND TORQUE CONVERTER
INSTALLATION
(1) Mount transmission on transmission jack. Then secure transmission to jack with safety chains.
(2) Lubricate converter drive hub and oil pump seal lip with transmission fluid. Then install converter. Be sure converter is fully seated in oil pump
gears before proceeding. Hold converter in place with C-clamp or strap attached to converter housing.
(3) Align and position transmission and converter on engine.
(4) Remove clamp or strap used to hold torque converter in place.
(5) Move transmission forward seat and it on engine. Be sure torque converter hub is fully seated.
(6) Install converter housing-to-engine bolts
(7) Install converter-to-drive plate bolts.
(8) Install and connect starter motor.
(9) Install and connect crankshaft position sensor.
(10) Install transfer case on transmission. Tighten transfer case attaching nuts to 41 Nzm (30 ft. lbs.) torque
(11) Connect transfer case shift linkage and vacuum hoses.
(12) Connect exhaust components.
(13) Install rear crossmember and remove jack used to support transmission assembly.
(14) Connect speed sensor wire harness to sensor.
(15) Connect wire harness to park/neutral position switch.
(16) Align and connect front and rear propeller shafts.
(18) Connect transmission cooler lines.
(19) Connect transmission throttle cable at engine.
(20) Install new O-ring seal on upper half of transmission fill tube. Then connect upper and lower tube halves.
(21) Lower vehicle.
(22) Fill transmission with Dexron/Mercon III compatible automatic transmission fluid.

The top two bolts are E12 Torx and require a bunch of extensions and a wobble socket to reach.
Old Oct 14, 2011 | 09:38 AM
  #7373  
Delta's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Norfolk, Va
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ho i6
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Originally Posted by dukie564

From the FSM:
Thank you very much
Old Oct 14, 2011 | 01:33 PM
  #7374  
JPT99's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2
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From: Strasburg, PA
Year: 2007
Model: Grand Cherokee
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My 2007 has 60k. Runs great. However, occasionally when stopped at a light, the idle fluctuates up and down a few hundred RPM at regular intervals. Almost like working the throttle to say 900 RPM, letting it drop back to 400 RPM, and doing it all over again and again until I get going again. It's not noticeable on the tach while going down the road. Not a consistent condition either. It wouldn't do it for the dealer when they were going to look at it. (Imagine that). Any ideas?

JPT99
Old Oct 14, 2011 | 01:45 PM
  #7375  
dukie564's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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most likely you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Best way i've found to locate it is to run an unlit propane torch along the vac lines with the engine at idle - the one that changes the engine speed/tone is leaking.
Old Oct 14, 2011 | 02:19 PM
  #7376  
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Strasburg, PA
Year: 2007
Model: Grand Cherokee
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Cool. I'll give it a try.
Old Oct 14, 2011 | 05:49 PM
  #7377  
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Model: Cherokee
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anyone know if the control module/relay on rear wiper motor is available seperate from motor?
dealer and parts stores only sell whole thing for 120 bucks and relay probly 20 but cant cross anything over
99 cherokee
Old Oct 14, 2011 | 06:07 PM
  #7378  
Jeepster94's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 58
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From: Arlington, Texas
Year: 1979
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 360 V8
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Hey guys I'm new to this site and i've got quite a few questions I have waiting for answers hopping y'all can help me out a bit...
Old Oct 14, 2011 | 06:58 PM
  #7379  
ike1's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 147
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From: loveland co
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Dumb question but is there a trick to removing the axle bolt on a d30. Pretty sure its just frozen but figured I would ask.
Old Oct 14, 2011 | 07:29 PM
  #7380  
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 34,088
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From: Lantana, Fl
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
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Originally Posted by Jeepster94
Hey guys I'm new to this site and i've got quite a few questions I have waiting for answers hopping y'all can help me out a bit...
We can probably help but need a question. Lol



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