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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 11:33 AM
  #8866  
dukie564's Avatar
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by SUPERYAN333
Hi. I want to start by saying I think what you guys have going here is great! I have a 99 Cherokee Sport and was wondering; of all the direct swap transfercases and rears, which were the best? I would like to get the most out of my xj while keeping the parts OEM/bolt on. I believe some years included better differentials, etc.
Thanks!!!
Ryan
well...what do you have now? Figure that out first.

Best combo IMO is NP231 transfer case and Chrysler 8.25 rear (29 spline). You most likely already have both of these.
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 02:08 PM
  #8867  
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From: Tigard, OR
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
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Im doing my front wheel hubs tomorrow and I got a haynes manual to help me out but it doesnt give me torque numbers. Does anyone know what the torque is for the axle nuts and the 12 points bolts?
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 02:16 PM
  #8868  
dukie564's Avatar
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by 96J33p
Im doing my front wheel hubs tomorrow and I got a haynes manual to help me out but it doesnt give me torque numbers. Does anyone know what the torque is for the axle nuts and the 12 points bolts?
Axle nut - 175 ft-lb
12-points - 75 ft-lb
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 04:17 PM
  #8869  
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From: Frederick, Maryland
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
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I'm looking into a 8.25 rear swap. The one I found I'm going to look at and buy soon. It appears from the pics to have a bit of surface rust. What else should I look at before I buy? Once I own it and its off the vehicle what should I replace or fix besides wire wheel and paint? I will also be buying the rear driveshaft. Same questions.
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 04:19 PM
  #8870  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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check the seals to see if they leak. May be a good idea to drain the fluid and check out the gears for damage as well.
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 04:32 PM
  #8871  
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From: Frederick, Maryland
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
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Originally Posted by dukie564
check the seals to see if they leak. May be a good idea to drain the fluid and check out the gears for damage as well.
I figure the brakes because he said they were bad. As far as the seals, do I just lift up one side at a time and see if fluid comes out the other? If I open it, I would just look for broken pieces?
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 06:35 PM
  #8872  
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From: New England
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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If I plan on doing new 2" leafs with a 3" AAL will I need to upgrade brake lines or anything with just a 3" lift in the rear/front?
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 07:16 PM
  #8873  
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From: Apple Valley, MN
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by Synyster
If I plan on doing new 2" leafs with a 3" AAL will I need to upgrade brake lines or anything with just a 3" lift in the rear/front?
RC sent me swaybar links for the front, you need new shocks all around, and LCA's are recommended for this height
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 07:26 PM
  #8874  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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I'm looking at a rough idle, hot or cold. I'm not sure what technically qualifies as a misfire so I won't call it that

It sounds like a cylinder fails to fire every so often, or fires poorly. Semi-regular. When it happens, the tach, oil pressure gauge, and voltmeter all take a slight dip. Does this sound like a specific problem (such as grounding where the spark doesn't work properly) or is that generic to most/all rough idles?

I can't say if the problem exists at higher RPM or if I'm just imagining things. Either it goes away or is negligible.

Thanks!

Edit: Have already done plugs and wires, oil and filter, air filter, exhaust manifold and gasket. Doubt I will be able to do any serious work until warmer weather without a garage, but all advice is appreciated.
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 07:51 PM
  #8875  
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From: Pennsylvania
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by dukie564
well...what do you have now? Figure that out first.

Best combo IMO is NP231 transfer case and Chrysler 8.25 rear (29 spline). You most likely already have both of these.
I already have the NP231 and 8.25! Lucky me I suppose. Thanks for the input!
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 07:54 PM
  #8876  
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From: Frederick, Maryland
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
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Originally Posted by salad
I'm looking at a rough idle, hot or cold. I'm not sure what technically qualifies as a misfire so I won't call it that

It sounds like a cylinder fails to fire every so often, or fires poorly. Semi-regular. When it happens, the tach, oil pressure gauge, and voltmeter all take a slight dip. Does this sound like a specific problem (such as grounding where the spark doesn't work properly) or is that generic to most/all rough idles?

I can't say if the problem exists at higher RPM or if I'm just imagining things. Either it goes away or is negligible.

Thanks!

Edit: Have already done plugs and wires, oil and filter, air filter, exhaust manifold and gasket. Doubt I will be able to do any serious work until warmer weather without a garage, but all advice is appreciated.
Sounds to me as though you have loose ground wire somewhere. Possibly behind your gauge cluster or something of that nature.
If you have like 10 minutes and a small piece of sandpaper I would like you to humor me. Directly behind where your gauge cluster is, but on the firewall (engine bay) there is a small bolt with threaded wire attached to it. Loosen it, sand until you see clean metal and retighten. Next go to your battery, coming of the negative terminal wire should be a wire that runs to the left and bolts directly to the body. Follow the same procedure as before. We will start easy and go from there. Please keep us informed as to your results. We love pictures also.
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 08:58 PM
  #8877  
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From: Spirngfield, MO
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
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Hello long time reader first time writer, I have a 93 JGC its my everyday driver two days ago out driving and at a stop light the battery gauge went to 9 and has stayed there since. I thought its got to be the altenator so i took it off and took it to orielly's and had it tested it passed twice, took the battery to wal mart and warrantied it out picked up a couple of battery terminals and replaced those and cleaned the cables. fired the Jeep up and it still sits just above 9 volts. i checked the cables no visable damage. Anyone have this type of trouble? Its late and i have to get the kids to school in the am any help would be much appreciated.
Old Jan 3, 2012 | 10:18 PM
  #8878  
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From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
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Picked up an 8.25 rear the other day off of a '94 XJ with 4:10's. I'm pretty sure it's a 27 spline. Wondering if it's possible to change to 29 spline shafts and if so, what needs to be done to make for a happy axle? Eventually going to run an Aussie locker. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 08:41 AM
  #8879  
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 140
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From: Clutier IA, where the jeep lays in wait, Pensacola, Florida, where im stationed.
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Does anybody know the bolt head size of the 3 bolts holding the hub to the axle? Im trying to change my hubs and my bomt a really rusted up and i dont want to strip anyhing out. They look to be 12 point bolts and i think its a 13 mm but i wanna make sure so i dont strip them out. Thanks for the help.

Last edited by FMXFreak; Jan 4, 2012 at 08:49 AM.
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 09:19 AM
  #8880  
wildspear's Avatar
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,680
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From: Western Michigan
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l inline 6
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They should be 12pt, 13mm. Make sure to use pb breaker. I broke two on my Cherokee ( dealer item, 12 bucks a price if I remember correctly ).



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