www.camcranketc.com.

thank you

camcrankect.com didnt bring up an actual page just search results saying there is no page by that name

try www.golenengines.com

says server not found

Thanks, Should have known bleepin jeep had a video on it

I keep running into conflicting information, dead old hyperlinks, and broken Photobucket images, and I'm tired of searching. People keep mixing information from Renix, mid-model, late-model, early TJ, late TJ, 2.5L, 4.0L..... I can't keep track of all the conversations going in each thread that I try to read.

I'm looking to swap the alternator in my '93 YJ (same configuration as a '93 XJ) to either the 136A ZJ or the 160A Dodge option.

Can someone tell me whether or not the 160A will work with my PCM, and show a picture of exactly what I have to grind to mount one of the larger alternator bodies?

(I will be upgrading my power cables along with the swap)

NEWBI POSTING...- I hope this is where this post/reply goes –
Targeting - (OEM XJ Cherokee Technical. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here - XJ (84-01)
My Vehicle - 1996 Cherokee Sport, 4.0 Automatic 2WD Stock Suspension (Not Lifted)
OK, after reading as many posts as I can find the time for and before I start the task of replacing the leaky Oil Pan Gasket.I know there’s interference dropping/removal of the pan with the front axle.My question to anyone that may know here is,How much clearance is required between the pan/ gasket surface and the top of the front axle to adequately install and at least not be juggling or needing to maneuver pan & gasket through and between bearing caps or oil pump, sump & AXLE, etc. Is it a doable for a one person jobber? How do I make sure to have enough space to do it right, without gagging up the gasket before it gets in place with pan?

Thank you for your time.

Sorry for the book but I need some ideas, Lets see if anyone else has had a similar issue. 01 sport 240k. Started getting an intermittent metal on metal noise, 2 days later the noise stops and the trany went into neutral in every gear. After removing oil cooler lines and starting it I noticed there was no pressure so I started thinking torque converter/oil pump problem (Mind you the jeep started every time no problem) so I went to remove the aw4 and noticed one of the big bolts on the side of the bell housing was missing and it looked to be maybe an 8th inch separated from the motor. So I removed the aw4 and torque converter to find the end of the oil pump shaft was slightly damaged (the metal on metal noise I was hearing) so I replaced the oil pump and torque converter then reinstalled the aw4. This isn't my first time so I know everything is hooked up properly but now the jeep wont start...? Good voltage and everything works in the interior, just hear the relay click when I turn the key. Then I noticed I had no reverse lights so I went to the NSS. Made sure the connector was clean/tight still nothing. So then I tried the good ole NSS bypass just to see if it would start. I started with the connector dissconected and jumped the 7 and 8 pin with a paperclip, from what everyone says that should give me reverse lights and allow the jeep to start in any gear...but got nothing....? So then I plugged the connector back together and stripped just a little bit of the 7 and 8 wires and jumped them with the paperclip....this gave me reserve lights but still no start....? Already went threw, checked then swapped all the fuses and relays just to be sure. What should I look for next? Ignition switch? What would cause my NSS Or ignition switch to act this way out of no where? Only other thing I can think of is the blinkers stopped working like 3 days before the noise started. The flashers would work, but I noticed the day I went to pull the trany that after a short time working underneath the blinkers started working again....? Any input that I haven't already covered would be appreciated thanks

If you jack up the body and support it on the subframe lined up the front of the doors to let the axle hang as far as it can, you should have plenty room to remove the old gasket from around the pickup tube and tuck the new one back in.

I actually posted about this same problems before, same problem is rearing its aggravating head once again.

I've replaced the battery twice now, new negative terminal connector (soldered on) had the alternater checked out. Dude at the parts store said it was good. To my knowledge i didn't have anything running in the background to cause a dead battery again (lights, accessories, etc).

I've already done a tune up and the starter was replaced, but not by me. I dont know if this is related or not but the ignition switch/lock cylinder has been giving us problems since I've owned the vehicle. Only in the sense that the key won't turn and sometimes after it does and it's started and running the airbag light will stay on unless i turn the key back just a tad. Could there be a bad connection in my ignition switch that's causing this repeated dead battery? What else could it be?

I agree 100%

Just replace the bushings. I can't tell what brand they are any more than I can tell the brand of LCAs that I have on my own.

Take your control arms off and measure them and order some based on the measurements here....

http://energysuspension.com/universa...isolators.html

Well, I thought I had a picture of mine when I ground it, but this is almost exactly what mine looked like when I was finished:



As for the 160 - I can't honestly say. I did the 136a XJ alternator and it was 100% compatible with my PCM (remember, mine is a '92 so it's not all that different from your '93)

Part number for the XJ 136a is 13469

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...11065_940035_0

Not really a big deal I guess, but I didn't want a 7 groove pulley with a 5 groove belt.

3-4 inches is all you need. I can take my pan down without even jacking it up. If you let the axle droop too far, the swing back will end up putting the axle right under the pump sump.... been there, done that.

I ended up getting the 136A option. The 160A is compatible, but you have to modify the wiring harness and void the warranty on the alternator, which also means another hack job every time you replace it. The 160A is a great option for later model Jeeps, but not ours.

I've also read that the YJ alt bracket doesn't need any grinding, but I don't have my hopes up for that. I really appreciate the image showing where the grinding needs to be done, if I have to.

Worked with XJwonders today to get measurements for a new set of cables to coincide with my heavy duty alternator installation.

Good to know that about the 160amp. Makes me glad I went with the 136. The less headache the better.

Good luck on the bracket, man. If you do end up having to grind it though, it's really not too big a deal. Just remember, it's aluminum so it doesn't take much force and an abrasive grinding wheel will take quite a bit off at a time.