So I'm read a lot of people saying to stitch weld them on but I've seen 2 videos by the manufacturers saying to fully weld the seams, which is it? Also is copper weld thru primer better ?

 

This is just a suggestion based on a the problem that I had with my 2001.
When I first bought mine about 6 years ago the starter sounded like the battery was dead or very weak, it would 'groan' to a start, so I replaced the battery, didn't fix the problem but since my Cherokee would start every time even in -40 I didn't do anything about it.
Fast forward 6 years of this being a minor problem and my alternator died, so while I was replacing it I pulled the starter and took both to a local rebuilder for him to look at.
He pulled apart the starter and explained that they aren't all that well built to start with and can work even with a short in the armature.
The result is that it would turn but it required large amperage to do it, hence my 'groaning' starter, this probably contributed to my alternator's early, Jeep has 95,000 kms, demise.
New alternator and starter and my Cherokee starts instantly with a normal load on the battery and charging system.
Just an idea but your plow addition could just be timing with the starter going.

 

I've always seen to use 2" or less stitches.

I have a related question:
Looking for advice on what I should use underneath the stiffeners. Should I use cold galvanizing spray? POR 15 and just grind it away then POR again over top? Also the forecast looks like it's going to be low 40Fs or colder... should I bring it to a shop that can do the painting at the right temp? Maybe we'll get lucky and get a random warm week once I'm done travelling for work.

 

What transmission would be in a 5 speed 87 minutes with a 4.0

 

Hey I've got a 1996 xj lifted, changed out my dash board and now my oil pressure reads high thought it would go away with time, still reads high more than a hundred miles after driving, changed the oil pressure sending unit and it still reads high oil pressure, didn't have the issue before dashboard replacment, I want to fix it before it affects other parts, any thoughts would be appreciated

 

what via your new(er) gauge is reading as high oil pressure? Are we talking 50,60, 80, or ? Also, have you researched what level is considered above normal for your year/model.
Usually people see the low oil pressure side for being an issue, which is probably much more common.
Did your previous dash have the same oil pressure gauge? (not the idiot light one). If it was the same, I'd start with verifying that the new(er) gauge works properly so you know you're getting an accurate reading from it before diving in any further into the rabbit hole.

 

Minutes?

4.0 had the ****ty Peugeot BA 10/5 in 1987-1989.5

 

Manual, guess it auto corrected and guess I’ll be doing a trans swap sometime in the future...

 

I recently acquired a 1987 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer and after looking at it it appears to have a Dana 44 in both the front and rear of the truck Diff covers look identical. So my question is: Does anyone know if the jeep Cherokee ever came with a Dana 44 front axle. I can take pictures to show later but both of the Diff covers are the very similar. everything I have read says that the Cherokee always had the Dana 30 front but from my research mine does not have one instead it has the 44. I also wanted to know if the Volvo D35 limited slip Diff that I have heard can be found in some junkyards will also fit in a Dana 44.

 

The Volvo is Dana 30.
The 44 was only used in some rigs in South America.

Look again.

 

You might would want to post up a picture of your diff covers here and we can help confirm it

 

I am planning to get pics just need to get them taken may have them up later today.

 

Can old style hinges be put on a new style Cherokee and Cherokee door? My driver’s side door is sagging and I know the old style hinge is really easy to make the door removable which would be fun, so could I get two birds with one stone? Or do I need to just fix the hinge somehow?

 

I run the modified hinges on my 94..also have body cladding on bottom of doors..makes for rapid wear on hinges..right in the middle of installing new hinges..The door pillers are very thin sheet metal and tear easily..I have to split piller and slide heavy gauge metal in place..weld in and then mount hinges..If you make "H" scribes top to bottom and side to side you get a pretty accurate location for hinge weld..then you need to "shim" the hinges for proper door alignment..and weld up pillers

 

I might have a line on the TC lever, E brake lever, and shifter **** out of a '98 5.9 GC. I know the shifter **** seems to be, according to the internet, a straight replace. Can't seem to find any info about the TC and E brake levers. Anybody know?