Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
Junior Member

Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Hey all,
I have a 99 XJ, stock, that I just bought. Has 110,000 miles on it. When I brake, and sometimes from a stop when I take my foot off of the brake, I notice a very slight forward movement/shift (not gears). Last week it felt like it was coming from the front, but I've noticed it in the back as well.
Before I bought it in Arlington, VA, I had the Fairfax Jeep dealership run diagnostics and look it over. Amongst a few basic maintenance issues they noted was bushings and end links needed replacing. I can see in the front that the drivers side bushing is cracked, but in tact. Could this be the source of the movement?
ps. Also, my fan comes on intermittently about every 10 or 15 seconds. It's a little on the loud side. Normal?
Thanks,
Mill
I have a 99 XJ, stock, that I just bought. Has 110,000 miles on it. When I brake, and sometimes from a stop when I take my foot off of the brake, I notice a very slight forward movement/shift (not gears). Last week it felt like it was coming from the front, but I've noticed it in the back as well.
Before I bought it in Arlington, VA, I had the Fairfax Jeep dealership run diagnostics and look it over. Amongst a few basic maintenance issues they noted was bushings and end links needed replacing. I can see in the front that the drivers side bushing is cracked, but in tact. Could this be the source of the movement?
ps. Also, my fan comes on intermittently about every 10 or 15 seconds. It's a little on the loud side. Normal?
Thanks,
Mill
Welcome,Mill
If I'm understanding your problem right and if the components you were told are bad enough it could be the cause.
Fan intermittent issue. If the a/c is on the aux fan will come on each time the compressor does. It will also come on if coolant temp reaches about 218. You shouldn't be able to hear it inside. Could be a bearing issue.
If I'm understanding your problem right and if the components you were told are bad enough it could be the cause.
Fan intermittent issue. If the a/c is on the aux fan will come on each time the compressor does. It will also come on if coolant temp reaches about 218. You shouldn't be able to hear it inside. Could be a bearing issue.
Junior Member

Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Welcome,Mill
If I'm understanding your problem right and if the components you were told are bad enough it could be the cause.
Fan intermittent issue. If the a/c is on the aux fan will come on each time the compressor does. It will also come on if coolant temp reaches about 218. You shouldn't be able to hear it inside. Could be a bearing issue.
If I'm understanding your problem right and if the components you were told are bad enough it could be the cause.
Fan intermittent issue. If the a/c is on the aux fan will come on each time the compressor does. It will also come on if coolant temp reaches about 218. You shouldn't be able to hear it inside. Could be a bearing issue.
That's helpful, thanks. Re: the fan question--I am using the a/c when I notice it. Thanks again.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
OK, I've bleed the brakes, there's no air in them, no leaks, yet my pedal is super easy to push.
I did swap prop valves, if its from a different setup (MC, booster) would the prop valve have different internals? Is that why I have no brakes?
Could it just be a bad MC? I still have some braking power but I can push the pedal down to the floor easily and the brakes are a little slow to react.
I did swap prop valves, if its from a different setup (MC, booster) would the prop valve have different internals? Is that why I have no brakes?
Could it just be a bad MC? I still have some braking power but I can push the pedal down to the floor easily and the brakes are a little slow to react.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4,825
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
The MC and booster on there were both sourced from a JY when I got rid of ABS. So its definitely possible.
Are those typical symptoms of a bad MC? I mean it almost has to be MC or booster I guess, no leaks and the only questionable part would be the wheel cylinders and I don't think they would cause that.
Are those typical symptoms of a bad MC? I mean it almost has to be MC or booster I guess, no leaks and the only questionable part would be the wheel cylinders and I don't think they would cause that.
The booster is there to reduce the pressure needed to push the brake pedal. Without it or if it was bad the pedal would be hard to push. Does it make any difference if you pump the pedal? Did you bleed the m/c?
Last 5-6 drives I have seen my temp gauge going up to the next mark, which is about 220 or so. I popped the hood and the second fan is running when its that hot. It doesn't seem to do it on highway but it has been running just sooo slightly warmer than typically for the last year. Today on the drive it got the midpoint between 210 and the next hash mark. What could be causing this? Everything? Ha ha. Is it worth it to do a coolant flush to test that, or should I just do the whole damn thing and call it good?
Nothing at all. It looks stock. Fluid is green when I popped the cap open a few months back.
I just replaced the serp belt, if that was too loose, could it be making the water pump not work at full speed? It only happens on 20 minute climbs. It seems to be getting worse though, so I don't want to leave it much longer. I'm semi inclined to throw cash at it and get a new rad, pump, and thermostat but I'm also a broke joker, yknow?
I just replaced the serp belt, if that was too loose, could it be making the water pump not work at full speed? It only happens on 20 minute climbs. It seems to be getting worse though, so I don't want to leave it much longer. I'm semi inclined to throw cash at it and get a new rad, pump, and thermostat but I'm also a broke joker, yknow?
If your going to be doing all that then you'll be replacing the fan clutch to. Heating up on a climb is how I found out my fan clutch was weak. They usually wear out slowly. Run the engine until it's at it's operating temp(take it for drive and make sure). You watch the fan while someone turns the engine off. See how long it takes for it to stop spinning.
What should it do when its turned off once at full heat?
Edit: I just checked with it having been off for a while, and it can be spun pretty easily. It doesn't turn alot, and offers some resistance but moves maybe 1/4 turn with a decent push of the fingers. Science.
Edit: I just checked with it having been off for a while, and it can be spun pretty easily. It doesn't turn alot, and offers some resistance but moves maybe 1/4 turn with a decent push of the fingers. Science.
Last edited by kgm; Jul 14, 2014 at 06:23 PM.







