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Old Oct 30, 2013 | 04:03 PM
  #36781  
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From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
Put them behind something besides the grille. How about the stock location? Stay out of the mud. Don't blow the horn. Problem solved.
Don't have end caps and getting a dirtbound bumper next week. I'm young remember? Let me do mud until I grow up
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 04:09 PM
  #36782  
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ

Don't have end caps and getting a dirtbound bumper next week. I'm young remember? Let me do mud until I grow up
It's true. I've grown up, at least out of 1'+ of mud. Realized it wasn't that fun anymore, on my last trip.
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 04:25 PM
  #36783  
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From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by my89xj
It's true. I've grown up, at least out of 1'+ of mud. Realized it wasn't that fun anymore, on my last trip.
It's just all we've got around a 2 hour radius. I'm still waiting on a few parts before I go do some crawling
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 04:44 PM
  #36784  
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kgm
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From: Denver
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I've got new springs, front shocks, new 16.25" LCA, rear springs, and rear shocks, cutting wheels and 3-4 months of spraying my bolts with PB blaster and other penetrating lubes.

Anything else to do before installing my new suspension?
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 04:53 PM
  #36785  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Sounds like you're pretty set. Adjustable track bar and brake lines would be nice to add while you're doing it all.
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 05:15 PM
  #36786  
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Year: 99
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The track bar is probably going to have to be another round unless I get DW and need to fix it. I am not working right now, so this is on limited funds. Got some free rear leafs w/ an AAL from a forum member, and putting JK rubi shocks on the rear. Front is 3" Iron Rock Offroad springs & Bilstein 5100s. Long term is probably a 3.5" RE rear pack & Bilsteins, new track bar, HD offroad shackle relocation, brake lines and 255/75/15s or so. I'm not looking to get too wild with this Do wish I could do it all at once though! But I don't want my current rear leafs to snap this winter, they are SAGGED. upside down, even.

Duly noted though

Last edited by kgm; Oct 30, 2013 at 05:40 PM.
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 05:28 PM
  #36787  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by kgm
I've got new springs, front shocks, new 16.25" LCA, rear springs, and rear shocks, cutting wheels and 3-4 months of spraying my bolts with PB blaster and other penetrating lubes.

Anything else to do before installing my new suspension?
I don't know what rust is like in Denver but my suggestion to anyone with corrosion is new hardware for EVERYTHING. The only remaining part of my rear suspension was, well, the Jeep. Had to hack everything off.
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 05:53 PM
  #36788  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ

Both set like this
Put one next to bAttery and one next to air box. Had mine there for a year and go through alot of water and deep puddles and they just drain out and keep going
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 06:02 PM
  #36789  
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From: Colorado
Year: 1992 Cherokee Sport
Engine: Bone-Stock 242
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Sandpaper to prep gasket surfaces (Water pump and t/stat) = good, bad, stupid idea? Just got my parts in and I want Raider running ASAP.
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 06:41 PM
  #36790  
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What year Cherokee will have the 8.25? Will it bolt to the original drive shaft?


Originally Posted by onlyinajeep726
Yes, but if you're going to go through all that, you might as well swap in a C8.25. It's way stronger than the turdy-five and is just as common to find. Just make sure to grab the U-bolt plates and U-bolts (or buy new U-bolts for it since the old ones have stretched over time).
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 06:45 PM
  #36791  
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From: Chattanooga
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Thoughts on What this is worth?
Black 98, 265k, aw4, d30, 8.25
NO big dents, minor rust on the rockers
Started up just fine, didn't seem to get hot, oil didn't appear milky.
transmission has to be shifted manually, once its in drive it seems to work fine..
gauges work except the oil pressure..which was either broken..or it the engine only had 5 pressure reading.


Drove OK..pulled a bit. Nothing terrible.
Dude said he would take 1k
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 06:51 PM
  #36792  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by Xj88
Thoughts on What this is worth?
Black 98, 265k, aw4, d30, 8.25
NO big dents, minor rust on the rockers
Started up just fine, didn't seem to get hot, oil didn't appear milky.
transmission has to be shifted manually, once its in drive it seems to work fine..
gauges work except the oil pressure..which was either broken..or it the engine only had 5 pressure reading.

Drove OK..pulled a bit. Nothing terrible.
Dude said he would take 1k
Give em 750. 265k on the clock. How many owners. Could only have 50k life left
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 06:53 PM
  #36793  
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Year: 2001
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It wouldnt be a dd for long..like 4 months tops
Then it'd be dedicated trail
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 06:55 PM
  #36794  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by IslandCherokee
What year Cherokee will have the 8.25? Will it bolt to the original drive shaft?
You'll want a C8.25 from a 97+. Need the driveshaft too.
Old Oct 30, 2013 | 06:55 PM
  #36795  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by Xj88
It wouldnt be a dd for long..like 4 months tops
Then it'd be dedicated trail
A Trail rig can put more stress on engine dep how much you push. $1000 seems fair but try and go in a lil low. I know in ny cheapest is around $1500 for a crapy one up to 3g-4g

Last edited by sycoglitch; Oct 30, 2013 at 07:02 PM.



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