Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 0
From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
From: North West Ohio
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter in-line six
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 0
From: Clayton, NC
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L I6 Stroker with port matched +99 intake and 62mm TB
Yes, but if you're going to go through all that, you might as well swap in a C8.25. It's way stronger than the turdy-five and is just as common to find. Just make sure to grab the U-bolt plates and U-bolts (or buy new U-bolts for it since the old ones have stretched over time).
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
OK I will try this one. I have a 4L 6 2000 Cherokee and the check engine light came on. I bought a checker and hooked it up. It popped out code that were determined by the Auto Zone/Advanced Auto guy that it is o2 sensors. All five he said. Yea I knew that so I changed the lower two by mistake thinking they were in front of the cat as this 2000 has three cat. Light went out then came back on. Changed the (what I now know to be the front o2 sensors) reset the CEL and it came back on. Same codes. NOW WHAT?
So after around $135 (vs. around $400 for parts and labor), about 10 mins for install, and 50 miles driving the light reset and I have had no problems since!
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Clutch / Tranny “jumping,” shimmy,” or “cavitating,” Question
I have been experiencing a “jumping,” shimmy,” or “cavitation,” whenever I don’t exactly hit the proper clutch to gas ratio while starting out and when putting the XJ in reverse (which for me to accomplish I have to go back pretty fast or it jumps/larches the whole time).
Has anyone else experienced this and if so what do I need to do to fix it?
Oh this is a 98 Cherokee Sport with a 5 speed manual and everything is stock and I am running 30 x 9.50’s…
Has anyone else experienced this and if so what do I need to do to fix it?
Oh this is a 98 Cherokee Sport with a 5 speed manual and everything is stock and I am running 30 x 9.50’s…
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
From: southern nj
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have the pieces ready for a 2" lift, (2" AAL and 2" coil spacer) problem is my rear is sagging due to flat leaf springs. Whats the best course of action to fix this on the cheaper side? I need new shocks also i was looking at rancho shocks front and rear but im not sure which to get. So how should i fix the rear and what shocks? At the end of the day i want 2-3" of lift since im only running 30s I dont mind if the rear end has a rake & sits an inch or so higher either.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
I have the pieces ready for a 2" lift, (2" AAL and 2" coil spacer) problem is my rear is sagging due to flat leaf springs. Whats the best course of action to fix this on the cheaper side? I need new shocks also i was looking at rancho shocks front and rear but im not sure which to get. So how should i fix the rear and what shocks? At the end of the day i want 2-3" of lift since im only running 30s I dont mind if the rear end has a rake & sits an inch or so higher either.