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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 06:32 PM
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EZEARL
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Just keep it in the bag. LOL
Old Jul 14, 2014 | 07:18 PM
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Semi cold engine (turned on at approx 110 on the gauge) - 1/4 spin maybe manually pushing fan.

Hot turned off engine (210 on gauge for a few minutes) - even less of a spin. Maybe 1/8th of a turn.

Fan behavior on power down: spun maybe 3 times as the engine quieted down. Seemed to come to a decently quick end. Didn't spin free or anything like that.
Old Jul 14, 2014 | 07:52 PM
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Two things. They wear out gradually and there is no verifiable way to test them. That said mine stops within one revolution and is just over a yr old.
Old Jul 14, 2014 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
The MC and booster on there were both sourced from a JY when I got rid of ABS. So its definitely possible.

Are those typical symptoms of a bad MC? I mean it almost has to be MC or booster I guess, no leaks and the only questionable part would be the wheel cylinders and I don't think they would cause that.
I'm betting the MC is shot.
Old Jul 14, 2014 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
The booster is there to reduce the pressure needed to push the brake pedal. Without it or if it was bad the pedal would be hard to push. Does it make any difference if you pump the pedal? Did you bleed the m/c?
That makes perfect sense. So I guess we could rule put booster. Its VERY easy to push. If I pump the pedal it gets stiffer but fades quick and I can still push pedal to the floor with ease.

Originally Posted by cruiser54

I'm betting the MC is shot.
From what I've been reading this definitely sounds like the problem. I might just swap in the dual diaphragm boost and MC from my parts jeep. Suck though I know I'm going to have run some new lines, the ports on are opposite sides lol.

Thanks guys.
Old Jul 14, 2014 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
That makes perfect sense. So I guess we could rule put booster. Its VERY easy to push. If I pump the pedal it gets stiffer but fades quick and I can still push pedal to the floor with ease.



From what I've been reading this definitely sounds like the problem. I might just swap in the dual diaphragm boost and MC from my parts jeep. Suck though I know I'm going to have run some new lines, the ports on are opposite sides lol.

Thanks guys.
What's your donor Jeep?
Old Jul 14, 2014 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

What's your donor Jeep?
96 XJ it has (now that I think about it) what I believe to be dual diaphragm booster because it's bigger than mine, and it has the mc with the plastic reservoir.
Last edited by DieselD; Jul 14, 2014 at 10:40 PM.
Old Jul 14, 2014 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselD
96 XJ it has (now that I think about it) what I believe to be dual diaphragm booster because it's ****** than mine, and it has the mc with the plastic reservoir.
You're good to go. I've done that swap before.

Brake line fittings are metric at the cylinder. You will have to put SAE ends on for the prop valve.
Old Jul 14, 2014 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

You're good to go. I've done that swap before.

Brake line fittings are metric at the cylinder. You will have to put SAE ends on for the prop valve.
I believe I already have necessary adapters. The part that sucks is I already snatched the prop valve off of there (parts jeep) because I boogered up a thread on the one I was putting back in, one of the lines stripped so I got cut happy and got it out of there. I'll probably need to replace lines from MC to prop valve.

At least they're small ones.
Old Jul 15, 2014 | 10:18 AM
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Any reason not to go with a 1 row TYC rad from rockauto? Anything better for similar price? I'm not offroading, but I do drive in the mountains alot. They're cheap on there, but probably better than my 15 year old radiator...
Old Jul 15, 2014 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by kgm
Any reason not to go with a 1 row TYC rad from rockauto? Anything better for similar price? I'm not offroading, but I do drive in the mountains alot. They're cheap on there, but probably better than my 15 year old radiator...
Isn't stock a 2 row radiator.
Old Jul 15, 2014 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by VTJeep
Good lord I wonder if this isn't my issue.. 99 so no coil rail, but I've had this slowly increasing/worsening ROUGH running now with no start. Got multiple misfire codes as well and now no start. New everything, just did CPS yesterday in a vain attempt to get it running. Guess I need a mm and a fsm.. Thanks for posting this. Gives me hope.
Check you HEI Ignition coil and Plug wire resistance. Many people find it easier to just change plug wires, but you still need to check the ignition coil windings and across.
Old Jul 15, 2014 | 11:43 AM
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kgm,
Here's all you need. Lifetime warrenty and if anything would happen you wouldn't have to ship it back.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...266534_0_13752
Old Jul 15, 2014 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Isn't stock a 2 row radiator.
1 row
Old Jul 15, 2014 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by pvance
Check you HEI Ignition coil and Plug wire resistance. Many people find it easier to just change plug wires, but you still need to check the ignition coil windings and across.
Cool, thanks man!



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