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Jul 14, 2014 | 10:20 AM
  #44281  
Quote: Oh you are just looking at it won't turn on when the AC is on. Phew!
it will turn on automatically when AC is on, AND if the engine temp reach (I THINK) 230 degrees but for 00-01, it ll turn on when it's at 218 degrees
Jul 14, 2014 | 12:28 PM
  #44282  
Hey all,
I have a 99 XJ, stock, that I just bought. Has 110,000 miles on it. When I brake, and sometimes from a stop when I take my foot off of the brake, I notice a very slight forward movement/shift (not gears). Last week it felt like it was coming from the front, but I've noticed it in the back as well.

Before I bought it in Arlington, VA, I had the Fairfax Jeep dealership run diagnostics and look it over. Amongst a few basic maintenance issues they noted was bushings and end links needed replacing. I can see in the front that the drivers side bushing is cracked, but in tact. Could this be the source of the movement?

ps. Also, my fan comes on intermittently about every 10 or 15 seconds. It's a little on the loud side. Normal?

Thanks,
Mill
Jul 14, 2014 | 12:41 PM
  #44283  
Welcome,Mill

If I'm understanding your problem right and if the components you were told are bad enough it could be the cause.

Fan intermittent issue. If the a/c is on the aux fan will come on each time the compressor does. It will also come on if coolant temp reaches about 218. You shouldn't be able to hear it inside. Could be a bearing issue.
Jul 14, 2014 | 01:27 PM
  #44284  
Quote: Welcome,Mill

If I'm understanding your problem right and if the components you were told are bad enough it could be the cause.

Fan intermittent issue. If the a/c is on the aux fan will come on each time the compressor does. It will also come on if coolant temp reaches about 218. You shouldn't be able to hear it inside. Could be a bearing issue.

That's helpful, thanks. Re: the fan question--I am using the a/c when I notice it. Thanks again.
Jul 14, 2014 | 05:03 PM
  #44285  
OK, I've bleed the brakes, there's no air in them, no leaks, yet my pedal is super easy to push.

I did swap prop valves, if its from a different setup (MC, booster) would the prop valve have different internals? Is that why I have no brakes?

Could it just be a bad MC? I still have some braking power but I can push the pedal down to the floor easily and the brakes are a little slow to react.
Jul 14, 2014 | 05:18 PM
  #44286  
It's possible maybe the booster is shot
Jul 14, 2014 | 05:31 PM
  #44287  
Quote: It's possible maybe the booster is shot
The MC and booster on there were both sourced from a JY when I got rid of ABS. So its definitely possible.

Are those typical symptoms of a bad MC? I mean it almost has to be MC or booster I guess, no leaks and the only questionable part would be the wheel cylinders and I don't think they would cause that.
Jul 14, 2014 | 05:38 PM
  #44288  
The booster is there to reduce the pressure needed to push the brake pedal. Without it or if it was bad the pedal would be hard to push. Does it make any difference if you pump the pedal? Did you bleed the m/c?
Jul 14, 2014 | 05:43 PM
  #44289  
Last 5-6 drives I have seen my temp gauge going up to the next mark, which is about 220 or so. I popped the hood and the second fan is running when its that hot. It doesn't seem to do it on highway but it has been running just sooo slightly warmer than typically for the last year. Today on the drive it got the midpoint between 210 and the next hash mark. What could be causing this? Everything? Ha ha. Is it worth it to do a coolant flush to test that, or should I just do the whole damn thing and call it good?
Jul 14, 2014 | 05:49 PM
  #44290  
Could be the fan clutch. What do you know about the cooling system?
Jul 14, 2014 | 05:51 PM
  #44291  
Nothing at all. It looks stock. Fluid is green when I popped the cap open a few months back.

I just replaced the serp belt, if that was too loose, could it be making the water pump not work at full speed? It only happens on 20 minute climbs. It seems to be getting worse though, so I don't want to leave it much longer. I'm semi inclined to throw cash at it and get a new rad, pump, and thermostat but I'm also a broke joker, yknow?
Jul 14, 2014 | 06:03 PM
  #44292  
If your going to be doing all that then you'll be replacing the fan clutch to. Heating up on a climb is how I found out my fan clutch was weak. They usually wear out slowly. Run the engine until it's at it's operating temp(take it for drive and make sure). You watch the fan while someone turns the engine off. See how long it takes for it to stop spinning.
Jul 14, 2014 | 06:14 PM
  #44293  
What should it do when its turned off once at full heat?

Edit: I just checked with it having been off for a while, and it can be spun pretty easily. It doesn't turn alot, and offers some resistance but moves maybe 1/4 turn with a decent push of the fingers. Science.
Jul 14, 2014 | 06:26 PM
  #44294  
Shouldn't make but maybe one revolution at the most.
Jul 14, 2014 | 06:28 PM
  #44295  
I'll drive to the beer store and solve this part of the problem at the same time...

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Thanks for your help.