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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 06:13 AM
  #59251  
Bugout4x4's Avatar
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From: Arizona
Year: 97
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
Also came down really hard on the crossmember, “frame rails”, and my rear bumper. The lights came on at least 5 times if not more. Attachment 399734 got this one on slammer. Forgot to quote bugout, but this is in response to that.

Edit: the dent in the bumper looks worse in person but yeah
Do the interior lights come on when the hood is up and the hood light is on? I never noticed on mine. Could have been the mercury switch for the hood light, I'm sure you had that little ball of mercury rolling around pretty good.
Old Nov 20, 2017 | 09:29 AM
  #59252  
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Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by Bama91XJ
no those are on a jeep I was looking at to buy
They look homemade, and I wouldn’t trust them or the quality of the other work that has been done to it.
Old Nov 20, 2017 | 09:30 AM
  #59253  
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From: Greenville, SC
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
Do the interior lights come on when the hood is up and the hood light is on? I never noticed on mine. Could have been the mercury switch for the hood light, I'm sure you had that little ball of mercury rolling around pretty good.
They do not come on with the hood light. What kind of switch in the hatch makes them come on though? Maybe it has like a tilt switch too.
Old Nov 20, 2017 | 09:44 AM
  #59254  
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
They do not come on with the hood light. What kind of switch in the hatch makes them come on though? Maybe it has like a tilt switch too.
The hatch has a pressure switch so it could have been jiggling through the ordeal but Know what? It never ceases to amaze me some of the things they did with these, so the tilt switch possibility very well could be. lol So you can see to get out in an accident maybe?
Old Nov 20, 2017 | 01:52 PM
  #59255  
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From: Valrico FL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default Ok, old/new problem?

Ok so, truck wont start again, no clicking, no beeping, no power what so ever. Just replaced the battery with a brand new one (and under warranty).

Could this have just been a bad battery or am i dealing with an underlying problem? Clueless. At your mercy. Please help lol.
Old Nov 20, 2017 | 01:55 PM
  #59256  
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From: west chester, pa
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How does the terminals on the posts look?
Old Nov 20, 2017 | 02:02 PM
  #59257  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
How does the terminals on the posts look?
Honestly, they look kinda jerry rigged. No corrosion though. And the ground is solid. I just hooked it up to my crown vic and everything is back. Beeps when the keys' in the ignition and everything. Just a completely dead battery.
Old Nov 20, 2017 | 02:05 PM
  #59258  
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Originally Posted by JamieBass
Honestly, they look kinda jerry rigged. No corrosion though. And the ground is solid. I just hooked it up to my crown vic and everything is back. Beeps when the keys' in the ignition and everything. Just a completely dead battery.
I'm actually on my way to the parts store to get a replacement battery since its about 10 days into its 3 year warranty lol. I'm going to get some new connectors while I'm there. I guess that's the best place to start. Thoughts?
Old Nov 20, 2017 | 02:33 PM
  #59259  
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Originally Posted by JamieBass
I'm actually on my way to the parts store to get a replacement battery since its about 10 days into its 3 year warranty lol. I'm going to get some new connectors while I'm there. I guess that's the best place to start. Thoughts?
Don’t get those emergency battery terminals which leave exposed copper. If you do get those, only realize they are a temporary fix. They will eventually corrode as and fail all over again. Replace the battery cables with after market cables. Our fellow forum brethren makes really nice cables. Check out the for sale area, his user name is XJWonders.

Also, are sure you are not having a parasitic draw problem? As in, some component is still drawing amperage after the vehicle is shutdown and in turn drawing your battery down while the vehicle sits. Some current draw is okay, such as the alarm system if you have one. I think the FSM for your year will tell you what is spec.
Old Nov 20, 2017 | 03:12 PM
  #59260  
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Originally Posted by CurrySoSpicy
Don’t get those emergency battery terminals which leave exposed copper. If you do get those, only realize they are a temporary fix. They will eventually corrode as and fail all over again. Replace the battery cables with after market cables. Our fellow forum brethren makes really nice cables. Check out the for sale area, his user name is XJWonders.

Also, are sure you are not having a parasitic draw problem? As in, some component is still drawing amperage after the vehicle is shutdown and in turn drawing your battery down while the vehicle sits. Some current draw is okay, such as the alarm system if you have one. I think the FSM for your year will tell you what is spec.
I'll check out those cables, thanks.

I was talking to the guy at the parts store. He suggested that i get some shims (which i did) temporary fix i know, but I'll do the whole schbang with new cabels. I just needed my truck to run today lol.

Also, as far as something else pulling current. I think the only assessory that does that is my after market radio, just in the sense that it saves the correct time when i turn off the truck. I don't have any amps or subs. It's just a regular run of the mill kinda truck. The one thing that i do that i know i probably shouldn't is run the radio on AUX before i clock into work. Just so i can jam some more tunes before i have to put on a "how can i help you" face lol. But i hadn't done that since Saturday and it's Monday now. My negitive terminal was cranked down all the way and was still loose. So I'm thinking that the loose connection killed my battery over time.
Old Nov 20, 2017 | 04:03 PM
  #59261  
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Originally Posted by JamieBass
I'll check out those cables, thanks.

I was talking to the guy at the parts store. He suggested that i get some shims (which i did) temporary fix i know, but I'll do the whole schbang with new cabels. I just needed my truck to run today lol.

Also, as far as something else pulling current. I think the only assessory that does that is my after market radio, just in the sense that it saves the correct time when i turn off the truck. I don't have any amps or subs. It's just a regular run of the mill kinda truck. The one thing that i do that i know i probably shouldn't is run the radio on AUX before i clock into work. Just so i can jam some more tunes before i have to put on a "how can i help you" face lol. But i hadn't done that since Saturday and it's Monday now. My negitive terminal was cranked down all the way and was still loose. So I'm thinking that the loose connection killed my battery over time.
Rodger that, good luck.
Old Nov 20, 2017 | 08:27 PM
  #59262  
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From: Southern Texas (former AZ & Aus)
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Model: Cherokee(XJ)
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Hi.

Thought this might fit in this thread.... if not, or it needs it's own... please advise.

As my profile states... I've got a '99 XJ SE.
Here's the question. Please don't laugh....
I can't stand the OEM gauge cluster in it with just the idiot gauges and no tach. I've read and seen where some have successfully swapped them out, hooked up the sensors needed and all is well with the world.
Here's what I want to know if it's even remotely true (as I haven't heard of it before I read the article).... That even with the digital odometer, there was some way to set/adjust/reprogram the mileage on the new cluster to match the original one taken out. I know it can be done with traditional geared odometers by qualified people and it's documented as being fixed/changed for accuracy purposes.
Has anyone heard of something like this with digital ones? I'd love to keep the mileage accurate to the Jeep while swapping for a cluster that gives me more accurate data than those worthless idiot gauges.
Thanks!
Old Nov 21, 2017 | 09:59 AM
  #59263  
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From: Nolensville, TN
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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My 98 has a problem with the tilt. It doesn't stay locked in the lowest position, ie I can push the steering wheel and it will move up.

This feature provided for a very exciting moment when I had to make a sudden stop.
Old Nov 21, 2017 | 10:33 AM
  #59264  
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Originally Posted by wizardpc
My 98 has a problem with the tilt. It doesn't stay locked in the lowest position, ie I can push the steering wheel and it will move up.

This feature provided for a very exciting moment when I had to make a sudden stop.
That reminds me of when you adjust your seat back and don’t get it locked into the next position. Suddenly you stop, and your seat comes flying forward a few inches until it locks into the next postion. Enough to make me need to change my pants.
Old Nov 21, 2017 | 11:12 AM
  #59265  
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Originally Posted by CurrySoSpicy
That reminds me of when you adjust your seat back and don’t get it locked into the next position. Suddenly you stop, and your seat comes flying forward a few inches until it locks into the next postion. Enough to make me need to change my pants.
Lol... Bugs were and still are bad about this.



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