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Old May 22, 2016 | 02:07 PM
  #54211  
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Originally Posted by Cane
the rotational play is to be expected, what you're looking for is lateral movement.

from the video the joint seems fine, you could always try to disconnect the driveshaft and play around with the output yoke. same thing on your transfer case (remove the driveshaft and try to wiggle the output shaft and look for any left-right-top-bottom play)

when's the last time you greased your slip yoke? i wasn't aware you had to grease it and it was dry when I first greased it. doesn't hurt to check while you have the driveshaft out.

do you have any lift? if yes, have a t-case drop? SYE? having a lift without any of those could be the source of your problem, like it was said above, because of the driveline angle.

it could be like me and the pinion bearing is on its way out. do you have a rumble type of sound when decelerating too? at highway speed I have an intermittent humming/vibration, it goes away between 40-50mph and it comes back when I let go of the throttle at around 35-40. i've determined it's my pinion bearing even if there is no play at the yoke.

hope it helps
The only other thing I'd say about my rear-end vibes under throttle is that when I removed the rear driveshaft last year to grease the slip yoke I marked the rear u-joint and yoke so that I put it back the same way as it was. What I din't mark was the forward u-joint and splined transfer case output shaft, and I turned the shaft a bit before I reassembled it. I wouldn't think it would matter since the TC output shaft shaft is symmetrical, but I'd just throw it out there as a possible factor.
Old May 22, 2016 | 02:30 PM
  #54212  
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Originally Posted by Joecam18
Getting some very minimals wobble when im driving, doesnt matter the speed. The issue is when I start to brake the wobble gets worse the more i brake until a point nad then it just stops when i start to brake harder. Was thinking it was my rotors since I really feel it only while braking. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance
Pop the wheels off and take a look. Something isn't right. Rotors might be warped, might have a loose lug nut...
Old May 22, 2016 | 04:53 PM
  #54213  
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thankyou for your help..take care
Old May 22, 2016 | 04:57 PM
  #54214  
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Originally Posted by salad
Pop the wheels off and take a look. Something isn't right. Rotors might be warped, might have a loose lug nut...
Just rotated my tires. Ill see how it drives now. Everything seemed to be in order. even got it aligned a few weeks ago and was hoping that wouldve solved the issue
Old May 22, 2016 | 05:37 PM
  #54215  
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Replaced the driver side wheel cylinder, parking brake isn't dragging and everything seems proper but the BRAKE light is illuminated? What gives?

edit: Reefed on the brake pedal and it clicked and reset the system and the light went off. Thanks google

Last edited by kgm; May 22, 2016 at 06:50 PM.
Old May 22, 2016 | 08:36 PM
  #54216  
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Originally Posted by kgm
Replaced the driver side wheel cylinder, parking brake isn't dragging and everything seems proper but the BRAKE light is illuminated? What gives?

edit: Reefed on the brake pedal and it clicked and reset the system and the light went off. Thanks google
Reefed on it?

Old May 23, 2016 | 09:38 AM
  #54217  
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Originally Posted by kgm
Replaced the driver side wheel cylinder, parking brake isn't dragging and everything seems proper but the BRAKE light is illuminated? What gives?

edit: Reefed on the brake pedal and it clicked and reset the system and the light went off. Thanks google
Mine did that a few times, check your reservoir and wheel cylinders for leaks. mine reset 4-5 times and then finally stayed on: leaking drivers side wheel cylinder drained the reservoir over the course of a week. Replaced drum system with a disc system now no problems of that sort! Ha!
Old May 23, 2016 | 11:59 AM
  #54218  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Don't get me wrong, I like the idea. I help make surfboards in vacuum bags and use a wet resin, it cures at lower temperatures. A concern may be warping the headliner when bagging it.
I'm thinking that may be the way to go, I also found out that the Library by my house has access to CAD, and an industrial 3D printer. So go do the design for a mold and then print out a mold for straight carbon fiber headliner.

If it works, I might have something I can sell.
Old May 23, 2016 | 12:33 PM
  #54219  
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Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
Random question, saw HD offroad's vendor post. What's the point in converting to rear shock towers over the stock mounting? I can see the clearance increase.
One reason is when moving shock eye from way below the axle to center of axle tube or on top of leaf springs, there is no room for shock body and extended shaft.
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Old May 23, 2016 | 01:02 PM
  #54220  
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How long does it take, i.e how many miles, to either clear the EV code or have the engine light come on to see what the problem is with the EV system. I drove my 2001 XJ for over 300 miles, but nothing happened. What is the "cycle" for the code to clear?
Before I had a bad front catalytic converter code, but the cat was changed out and the code cleared in a hurry.
Old May 23, 2016 | 02:02 PM
  #54221  
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Originally Posted by nhopa
How long does it take, i.e how many miles, to either clear the EV code or have the engine light come on to see what the problem is with the EV system. I drove my 2001 XJ for over 300 miles, but nothing happened. What is the "cycle" for the code to clear?
Before I had a bad front catalytic converter code, but the cat was changed out and the code cleared in a hurry.
You can have auto zone or similar place reset the code for you for free. It will come back if not fixed. Otherwise it's something like 3 trips but they must be longer than 20 miles, or something like that...not 100% sure on the numbers.
Old May 24, 2016 | 09:11 AM
  #54222  
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I have a loud knocking coming from the oil pan right that started yesterday afternoon. Loud knocking noise on startup, but goes away after a minute of driving or so. Went wheeling on Sunday and the radiator got caked with mud and it was starting to overheat during the 5 minute drive to get it cleared, got around 245-250 before I stopped. Is this a rod knock? If so is there anything I can do besides swap engines?

1997 XJ, 4.0, AW4, 201,200 miles. No previous engine problems.
Old May 24, 2016 | 09:11 AM
  #54223  
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Hi rcguymike:
Thank you for the feed back. I can reset the code but it will come back unless the problem is eliminated. Right now the EV code is flashing, no engine light on and I drove the car over 300 miles.
Old May 24, 2016 | 09:37 AM
  #54224  
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Originally Posted by Doove
I have a loud knocking coming from the oil pan right that started yesterday afternoon. Loud knocking noise on startup, but goes away after a minute of driving or so. Went wheeling on Sunday and the radiator got caked with mud and it was starting to overheat during the 5 minute drive to get it cleared, got around 245-250 before I stopped. Is this a rod knock? If so is there anything I can do besides swap engines?

1997 XJ, 4.0, AW4, 201,200 miles. No previous engine problems.
A rod knock does not go away. It gets worse.

What brand of oil filter are you using?

If/when it does it again on start-up, turn it off and wait 10 seconds. Restart it. Noise gone?
Old May 24, 2016 | 09:46 AM
  #54225  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
A rod knock does not go away. It gets worse.

What brand of oil filter are you using?

If/when it does it again on start-up, turn it off and wait 10 seconds. Restart it. Noise gone?
I use Mopar filters. I just started it up and now it has an almost rattling sound when I rev it. It warmed up and the rattling went away, but no knock this time

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