Take out four 8mm bolts at the axle and four 8mm bolts at the transfer case. They're at either end of the driveshaft. Nothing else needs to come apart, and you can drive it that way

 

Fairly easy. Supposed to mark yoke of axle and transfer case so that driveshaft goes back on with the same orientation.
Nothing else needs to be removed.
5/16" 12 point wrench to remove transfer case side.
5/16" socket to remove axle side.
Perfectly fine to drive without it.

 

alright, I'll check it. I believe mine is grounded to the radiator support. Do you have LEDs or was it doing that with incandescent bulbs?

 

Standard bulbs.

 

tried the putco harness grounded elsewhere, no luck, tried adding a ground for brake and for rear turn with no luck, what should I try next?

 

Thanks for the help!

 

I'm kinda shooting in the dark at this point. Maybe the gauge cluster ground? Anyone else have ideas?

 

Hello everyone , i would like to ask you guys something here about cylinder head torque that i dont undestand ; i have a cherokee 2.5td and im falowing the manual but there is a detail there that i dont undestand , in a moment they say this: " Tighten M1 bolts to 30N·m, then rotate them 85° (+-5) " what does this +-5 means? i undestand to rotate 85 degreas but what does it means this more or less 5 , anyone undestand this?

 

Plus or minus 5°. So 90° would be ok and so would 80°

 

it's the weirdest thing. I mean no matter what it is I should fix it since the resistance of incandescents is just hiding the problem which could end up being something worse maybe.

 

Do your new relays have a built in resistor or diode? That could do funky stuff.

On a separate note:
I haven't been able to get in contact with Blaine: what bolts do I use to mount the backing plates to the axles? The ones on the backing plates are to big to fit through the holes on the axle flange and the extra ones labeled for the d44 or 8.8 are a bit small for the backing plate holes. Or does that not really matter? Also the ones that came on the backing plate seem just as long as the original.
click for full res
I think I'm leaning towards using the slightly smaller longer bolts.

 

the relay is made to be used with both LED and incandescent bulbs so I doubt that it is the cause. I think it did the same stuff with the other relay, the turn signals just didn't work.

 

Random question, saw HD offroad's vendor post. What's the point in converting to rear shock towers over the stock mounting? I can see the clearance increase.

 

So I got the Wolo big bad max horn. Little larger than stock horn.... any ideas on where to mount this thing? Should I just go to the stock location and hope my 33s don't rub it?
Ps just bought this xj and need a horn for inspection. Didn't wanna play with stock wiring because nothing is hooked up to the stock horn currently and looks like it could be a mess so I'm just wiring up a button independent of the stock horn.

 

Getting some very minimals wobble when im driving, doesnt matter the speed. The issue is when I start to brake the wobble gets worse the more i brake until a point nad then it just stops when i start to brake harder. Was thinking it was my rotors since I really feel it only while braking. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance