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Old May 19, 2016 | 11:15 AM
  #54166  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
It allows your cooling system to build up to a higher pressure, similar to putting more air in your tires. As long as the system can handle it, you're fine. I don't know the pressure limit that the factory system was designed for.

On the technical side, increasing the pressure of the system will raise the boiling point proportionally. Water boils at 212°F. If you put that water in a sealed system at 10psi, the it boils around 242F. At 15psi, that temperature raises to 257F. With a 50/50 mix of coolant, those numbers change to approximately 226°F, 253F, and 265F, respectively.
Ah, was completely ignoring the fact that occasionally engine temps can go well over the desired operating temp. So basically you only would want to increase the pressure if for some reason you wanted to run your engine hotter(and it was designed for it) and your radiator and thermostat were adjusted as well or if for some reason you had to run a lower coolant to water ratio and the system can deal with the pressure?

Originally Posted by RRay130
I have a load grinding noise coming from the left front wheel. At first I thought it was road noise coming from the tire but when I put the window down I hear it gets much loader and I can tell it's coming from the wheel and not the tire. I think it may be my front wheel hub. Any ideas what this can be?
Hubs are fairly easy to replace, ~$75 on Amazon for a Timken last I checked. Could be brake related as well. The dust shield could be rubbing or the pads are shot and/or a combination of a seized caliper.
Old May 19, 2016 | 11:25 AM
  #54167  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Ah, was completely ignoring the fact that occasionally engine temps can go well over the desired operating temp. So basically you only would want to increase the pressure if for some reason you wanted to run your engine hotter(and it was designed for it) and your radiator and thermostat were adjusted as well or if for some reason you had to run a lower coolant to water ratio and the system can deal with the pressure?
The system is designed for a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water, and a 13-16lb radiator cap. When the fluid heats up, it expands and builds pressure. If it gets too hot, the pressure would build indefinitely and you would find the weakest link in your cooling system. The OEM radiator cap is rated to give the widest range of operating temps possible, before releasing to "blow off" pressure, so your radiator tank/cooling hoses don't burst from excessive pressure. It functions similarly to a turbo wastegate in that regard.
Old May 19, 2016 | 12:32 PM
  #54168  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
The system is designed for a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water, and a 13-16lb radiator cap. When the fluid heats up, it expands and builds pressure. If it gets too hot, the pressure would build indefinitely and you would find the weakest link in your cooling system. The OEM radiator cap is rated to give the widest range of operating temps possible, before releasing to "blow off" pressure, so your radiator tank/cooling hoses don't burst from excessive pressure. It functions similarly to a turbo wastegate in that regard.
Additionally, letting off pressure is part of normal operation. Reservoir level fluctuates constantly.
Old May 19, 2016 | 01:25 PM
  #54169  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

On the technical side, increasing the pressure of the system will raise the boiling point proportionally. Water boils at 212°F. If you put that water in a sealed system at 10psi, the it boils around 242F. At 15psi, that temperature raises to 257F. With a 50/50 mix of coolant, those numbers change to approximately 226°F, 253F, and 265F, respectively.
Just out of curiosity whats the formula for that? also what about a 70/30 mix? or a 60/40?
Old May 19, 2016 | 01:26 PM
  #54170  
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Originally Posted by jackace
Just out of curiosity whats the formula for that? also what about a 70/30 mix? or a 60/40?
too much coolant can eat up the insides and not enough coolant can cause inside to rust out
Old May 19, 2016 | 01:36 PM
  #54171  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
too much coolant can eat up the insides and not enough coolant can cause inside to rust out
Also, too much coolant (really, not enough water) doesn't transfer heat very efficiently. Too little allows corrosion to occur, as you mentioned.
Old May 19, 2016 | 01:50 PM
  #54172  
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Originally Posted by jackace
Just out of curiosity whats the formula for that? also what about a 70/30 mix? or a 60/40?
I'm not sure. I looked up the numbers to make an accurate post.
Old May 19, 2016 | 02:42 PM
  #54173  
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Originally Posted by salad
Hang on a second.

You have one electric fan?

Where's the mechanical clutch fan? The electric fan on these vehicles is auxilliary only...
lol... glad SOMEONE ELSE finally got the picture here.

Originally Posted by IJM
Also, too much coolant (really, not enough water) doesn't transfer heat very efficiently. Too little allows corrosion to occur, as you mentioned.
Let's not forget the obvious... too much water to coolant ratio will allow the water to freeze during the sub-freezing months
Old May 19, 2016 | 03:57 PM
  #54174  
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Anyone know of a flasher relay that will work with LEDs without resistors?
Old May 19, 2016 | 04:42 PM
  #54175  
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
Anyone know of a flasher relay that will work with LEDs without resistors?
I thought you just got one?!?!
Old May 19, 2016 | 05:06 PM
  #54176  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
I thought you just got one?!?!
didn't work, tried it and it did the exact same thing as the rest. Went to the auto parts store and got one that actually works just now, but here's a new problem. When I turn the lights on, both of the turn signal arrows dimly light up, and this causes the front side markers to be dimly lit.

XJ Ask the Question Thread-image-3806024696.jpg

Also, when I hit the brakes the turn signals, and interior dash/gauge lights light up.
Old May 19, 2016 | 08:30 PM
  #54177  
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What is this harness for?






One wire is red (pink?) and the other is black. Looks like a sensor but I couldnt find anywhere to plug it in.

coming off a 98, 2.5l.
Old May 19, 2016 | 08:35 PM
  #54178  
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Under hood light?
Old May 19, 2016 | 08:38 PM
  #54179  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Under hood light?
I think you're right.
Old May 19, 2016 | 08:38 PM
  #54180  
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
Anyone know of a flasher relay that will work with LEDs without resistors?
Add a power resistor in parallel to match the resistance of the original bulbs. 1/((1/R1)+(1/R2)+...)



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