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Old May 16, 2016 | 09:59 AM
  #54136  
Cherokee Charlie's Avatar
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Salad, I have some additional questions for you, as I mentioned, my truck's a 1999 XJ Sport, does that current front differential have a vacume disconnect line (how can I tell) and if it does does the Dana HP 30 replacement that I find have to have one on it as well? Also, does that truck have ABS sensors for that yr and if so, do I have to ensure the replacement axel has the connectors on it? Much appreciate your input & help, thanks again in advance.
Old May 16, 2016 | 10:24 AM
  #54137  
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Year: 2000
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My jeep has 182k on it and I heard it's a bad idea to lift cars that have a lot of miles, is there any truth to this?
Old May 16, 2016 | 10:29 AM
  #54138  
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Originally Posted by nardey11
My jeep has 182k on it and I heard it's a bad idea to lift cars that have a lot of miles, is there any truth to this?
nope. No truth to that. Especially if you are replacing the entire suspension
Old May 16, 2016 | 10:40 AM
  #54139  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
nope. No truth to that. Especially if you are replacing the entire suspension
sweet, thanks for the quick reply
Old May 16, 2016 | 12:01 PM
  #54140  
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From: Anderson, SC
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
first time I took the housing off to change bulbs I was having a hard time getting the stupid tab to go in so I kicked the tail light, tab fell off and perfect ever since.
I chose a more, gentle approach.
I took a small handsaw and cut off the lip of the tab. That tab is really poorly designed.
Old May 17, 2016 | 02:25 PM
  #54141  
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From: sw colorado
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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how many of you guys have after market keyless entry on you xj's and found a way to keep the the horn and light function for the lock and unlock
Old May 17, 2016 | 02:34 PM
  #54142  
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Originally Posted by jeependad970
how many of you guys have after market keyless entry on you xj's and found a way to keep the the horn and light function for the lock and unlock
lights on mine function, but I don't know how. Horn doesn't function which sucks.
Old May 17, 2016 | 02:38 PM
  #54143  
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how did you wire it to the module ?
Old May 17, 2016 | 02:55 PM
  #54144  
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Originally Posted by jeependad970
how did you wire it to the module ?
It was in there when I got it, there's no wiring diagrams for my module online so I can't trace a wire and tell you either. I would like to replace mine since it's an older module with limited range, a single button for lock and unlock so I have to go watch the number of times the lights flash, and there's no info on it anywhere.
Old May 17, 2016 | 06:58 PM
  #54145  
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1990 xj 4.0 241tc. Does anyone happen to know the torque spec. For the rear shackle to frame bolts? 80 ft lbs?
I know the Haynes manual says 109 ft. Lbs. front and back eyes, so what is the bolt holding the shackle bolt supposed to be torqued at?

Thanks for any help...

Last edited by 7ate9; May 17, 2016 at 07:11 PM.
Old May 17, 2016 | 11:11 PM
  #54146  
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Default Broken female intake manifold and power steering pump.

XJ 1990 2wd inline 6.
A while back I changed the idler pulley and something mustve went wrong with the pump. Lost the center screw and the upper screw broke its female counterpart on the intake manifold. See photos.

I would appreciate someone setting me in the right directions. Explain it and give me advice and a bunch of keywords for my research.


Note the missing bolt in the middle and that broken part on the left.




This is the bolt with the broken female. Mustve broken that power steering pulley
Old May 18, 2016 | 08:12 AM
  #54147  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Wee Sam
XJ 1990 2wd inline 6.
A while back I changed the idler pulley and something mustve went wrong with the pump. Lost the center screw and the upper screw broke its female counterpart on the intake manifold. See photos.

I would appreciate someone setting me in the right directions. Explain it and give me advice and a bunch of keywords for my research.


Note the missing bolt in the middle and that broken part on the left.




This is the bolt with the broken female. Mustve broken that power steering pulley
You need the bracket and bolts.
Old May 18, 2016 | 10:41 AM
  #54148  
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I'm doing some process of elimination work to figure out the cause of my driveline vibration that comes on under throttle at around 40 and also around 75-80. It appears to be from the rear, though I've not disconnected the front shaft to eliminate that possibility entirely. Like I said, it only does it while on the gas.

In any case, what are your thoughts on the amount of slack in the rear diff from this video I shot? Is this normal, or am I getting too much play? Both the transmission and transfer case are in neutral, and both u-joints appear to be solid with no play. I can shake the entire driveshaft in several directions and get no movement in the u-joints.

Old May 18, 2016 | 12:01 PM
  #54149  
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From: Laurium, MI
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by IJM
I'm doing some process of elimination work to figure out the cause of my driveline vibration that comes on under throttle at around 40 and also around 75-80. It appears to be from the rear, though I've not disconnected the front shaft to eliminate that possibility entirely. Like I said, it only does it while on the gas.

In any case, what are your thoughts on the amount of slack in the rear diff from this video I shot? Is this normal, or am I getting too much play? Both the transmission and transfer case are in neutral, and both u-joints appear to be solid with no play. I can shake the entire driveshaft in several directions and get no movement in the u-joints.
Any lift? Your driveline angle could be too steep? Could try a transfer case drop to see if it helps any?
Old May 18, 2016 | 12:11 PM
  #54150  
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the rotational play is to be expected, what you're looking for is lateral movement.

from the video the joint seems fine, you could always try to disconnect the driveshaft and play around with the output yoke. same thing on your transfer case (remove the driveshaft and try to wiggle the output shaft and look for any left-right-top-bottom play)

when's the last time you greased your slip yoke? i wasn't aware you had to grease it and it was dry when I first greased it. doesn't hurt to check while you have the driveshaft out.

do you have any lift? if yes, have a t-case drop? SYE? having a lift without any of those could be the source of your problem, like it was said above, because of the driveline angle.

it could be like me and the pinion bearing is on its way out. do you have a rumble type of sound when decelerating too? at highway speed I have an intermittent humming/vibration, it goes away between 40-50mph and it comes back when I let go of the throttle at around 35-40. i've determined it's my pinion bearing even if there is no play at the yoke.

hope it helps

Last edited by Cane; May 18, 2016 at 12:14 PM.



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