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Old May 2, 2016 | 07:09 PM
  #53986  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
A short. Might need a new multifunction switch. Might have bare wires in the column.
just pulled the column apart all the way down to the lock cylinder. I didn't see any bare wires but some of the wiring is in the switch where I can't look at it. By new switch do u mean the round white thing with the little spring mechanisms for the blinker and such, or do u mean the actual switch lever itself?
Old May 4, 2016 | 11:07 AM
  #53987  
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Originally Posted by BubbaWilcox
I need to replace the axle seals on my Dana 30 front axle. It's from a '97 that I will be installing on my '98. What seals should I buy for them? Are some brands better/more reliable than others or does it not really matter so long as it is the right size?
Originally Posted by XJwonders
97 and 98 use same seals. I would go with
National brand
Alloy USA is another good brand. Lots of people run them and are pleased with the results (I plan to install a set soon).

Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
just pulled the column apart all the way down to the lock cylinder. I didn't see any bare wires but some of the wiring is in the switch where I can't look at it. By new switch do u mean the round white thing with the little spring mechanisms for the blinker and such, or do u mean the actual switch lever itself?
Multifunction switch is the lever



Have fun finding that short. Sounds like a total nightmare. BTW, if your intermittent settings aren't working, you may need a new module for it. It's located behind the lower dash panel below the steering column.

Last edited by Basslicks; May 4, 2016 at 11:15 AM.
Old May 4, 2016 | 12:24 PM
  #53988  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Alloy USA is another good brand. Lots of people run them and are pleased with the results (I plan to install a set soon). Multifunction switch is the lever Have fun finding that short. Sounds like a total nightmare. BTW, if your intermittent settings aren't working, you may need a new module for it. It's located behind the lower dash panel below the steering column.
I just replace the module a few days ago and it still doesn't work, the module I got is from the JY and has no burnt spots in the little green panel thingy.
Old May 4, 2016 | 01:21 PM
  #53989  
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
I just replace the module a few days ago and it still doesn't work, the module I got is from the JY and has no burnt spots in the little green panel thingy.
Then, there's a good possibility it's the mutli-function switch itself -OR- the module you got from the JY is also bad... just 'cause there's not "burnt spots" in the circuit board (little green panel thingy) doesn't mean it's still good. There are other components on the board (I haven't looked at that board to know, but generally speaking, resistors, capacitors, diodes, etc.) that can fail.
Old May 4, 2016 | 01:37 PM
  #53990  
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So my 2000 went from 182,435 miles too 182,434 after sitting in my driveway for a few weeks, is that bad or even possible? I just bought it so i hope no one tried too roll back the odometer.

Last edited by nardey11; May 4, 2016 at 01:45 PM.
Old May 4, 2016 | 03:30 PM
  #53991  
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Originally Posted by nardey11
So my 2000 went from 182,435 miles too 182,434 after sitting in my driveway for a few weeks, is that bad or even possible? I just bought it so i hope no one tried too roll back the odometer.
You can't roll back the digital odometer without a very, very expensive computer designed for dealerships. I'd suspect it may have been teetering on the edge of a full mile, but I've never seen that happen
Old May 4, 2016 | 03:33 PM
  #53992  
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Originally Posted by nardey11
So my 2000 went from 182,435 miles too 182,434 after sitting in my driveway for a few weeks, is that bad or even possible? I just bought it so i hope no one tried too roll back the odometer.
what were you smoking for those few weeks?
Old May 4, 2016 | 03:38 PM
  #53993  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
what were you smoking for those few weeks?
Nothing but I'm not crazy, I have pics too.

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
You can't roll back the digital odometer without a very, very expensive computer designed for dealerships. I'd suspect it may have been teetering on the edge of a full mile, but I've never seen that happen
That's what i was thinking, i was doing a lot of interior work so the overhead lights were on and the battery died so maybe that had something to do with it.
Old May 4, 2016 | 05:36 PM
  #53994  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
You can't roll back the digital odometer without a very, very expensive computer designed for dealerships. I'd suspect it may have been teetering on the edge of a full mile, but I've never seen that happen
Actually if you remove the cluster and have a serial programming adapter(~$60) you can read and write to the chips that store the odometer info. There are a few tutorials on YouTube. When selling the vehicle you should report the odometer inaccuracy(unless you are replacing clusters and set it properly). The VIN number is also stored on that chip too.

Last edited by rcguymike; May 4, 2016 at 06:12 PM.
Old May 4, 2016 | 06:07 PM
  #53995  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Actually if you remove the cluster and have a serial programming adapter(~$60) you can read and write the the chips that store the odometer info. There are a few tutorials on YouTube. When selling the vehicle you should report the odometer inaccuracy(unless you are replacing clusters and set it properly). The VIN number is also stored on that chip too.
That's interesting to me, but it's also a felony to tamper with the odo, even if you're just making it match during a gauge cluster swap.
Old May 4, 2016 | 06:11 PM
  #53996  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
That's interesting to me, but it's also a felony to tamper with the odo, even if you're just making it match during a gauge cluster swap.
Just to tamper or to tamper and try to pass it off as genuine? IIRC there's a spot on Michigan titles to sign or report odometer inaccuracies.

Edit: maybe the work has to be done by a licensed technician to be considered truly genuine?

Last edited by rcguymike; May 4, 2016 at 06:13 PM.
Old May 4, 2016 | 06:14 PM
  #53997  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Just to tamper or to tamper and try to pass it off as genuine? IIRC there's a spot on Michigan titles to sign or report odometer inaccuracies.

Edit: maybe the work has to be done by a licensed technician to be considered truly genuine?
Exactly. You can't legally touch it, but you can report an inaccuracy if it breaks or if you swap gauges.
Old May 4, 2016 | 06:17 PM
  #53998  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Exactly. You can't legally touch it, but you can report an inaccuracy if it breaks or if you swap gauges.
That reminds me...if you drive around with the "no bus" message is your odometer not recording?
Old May 4, 2016 | 06:27 PM
  #53999  
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
That reminds me...if you drive around with the "no bus" message is your odometer not recording?
I think not
Old May 5, 2016 | 06:59 AM
  #54000  
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Hey guys,
I'm going to throw this up on the parts wanted thread as well, but I thought I'd run it by folks here first.

I'm looking for a MAP sensor for my 90. I suspect the one I have now is not the correct one, since it has a "Rube Goldburg" connection at the throttle body.

Anybody got one they want to sell or know where I can buy a new one?

Here's a pic of one borrowed from another thread.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/attach...ap-tb-hose.jpg



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