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Old May 13, 2016 | 09:34 PM
  #54106  
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Anybody know if the A/C components from a 97 up XJ would fit in a 93 Xj? Specifically the condenser, dryer, hoses, and compressor. If it's only the connector pigtails than I could cut and splice the appropriate wiring. But other than that's, any differences that's wouldn't allow the two to mix? Also, refrigerant type isn't a problem ether.
Old May 13, 2016 | 09:36 PM
  #54107  
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
Anybody know if the A/C components from a 97 up XJ would fit in a 93 Xj? Specifically the condenser, dryer, hoses, and compressor. If it's only the connector pigtails than I could cut and splice the appropriate wiring. But other than that's, any differences that's wouldn't allow the two to mix? Also, refrigerant type isn't a problem ether.
hose connection to the compressor is different. Older styles have hoses connected to the rear of the compressor. The newer style connects on the top. Not sure if you would encounter any compatibility issues if you swapped the hoses as well
Old May 13, 2016 | 09:40 PM
  #54108  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
hose connection to the compressor is different. Older styles have hoses connected to the rear of the compressor. The newer style connects on the top. Not sure if you would encounter any compatibility issues if you swapped the hoses as well
alright, so the other than that, the condenser, dryer, and compressor would work both physically and electrically? I will be using the old style accumulator so I'm gonna have to do a little more research to see if new style hoses would plug on to it.
Old May 14, 2016 | 02:06 AM
  #54109  
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I HAVE A 95 JEEP CHEROKEE 4.0 6 CYL HIGHOUTPUT WITH OVER HEATING PROBLEMS. I HAVE SINCE INTALLED A NEW WATER PUMP, RADIATOR, CYLINDER HEAD AND HOSES YET IT STILL OVER HEATS. A BUDDY OF SUGGESTED RMOVING THE THERMOSTAT, WHICH I DID BUT NO CHANGES. NEEDS SOME HELP AND SOLUTIONS TO THIS PROBLEM. ANY SUGGESTIONS
:wall bash:
Old May 14, 2016 | 06:17 AM
  #54110  
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Originally Posted by MAVERICK1231
I HAVE A 95 JEEP CHEROKEE 4.0 6 CYL HIGHOUTPUT WITH OVER HEATING PROBLEMS. I HAVE SINCE INTALLED A NEW WATER PUMP, RADIATOR, CYLINDER HEAD AND HOSES YET IT STILL OVER HEATS. A BUDDY OF SUGGESTED RMOVING THE THERMOSTAT, WHICH I DID BUT NO CHANGES. NEEDS SOME HELP AND SOLUTIONS TO THIS PROBLEM. ANY SUGGESTIONS
:wall bash:
First of all, you may wanna tone down the caps, a post in ALL CAPS is considered yelling -or if used for a word or too, emphasis. I'm actually kinda surprised you didn't get nabbed by the forum robocop that makes you edit it without the caps... grinds on some of the moderators nerves here, so you might want to limit that... just a tip, no biggie.

As far as your problem goes, removing the thermostat should only be used in an emergency situation and should NEVER be counted as a fix for an overheating motor. Replace your thermostat with a quality one like Stant and make sure it's a 195* thermostat. The purpose of the thermostat is to keep the water journals in the head FULL of water by keeping the pressure up inside the head. If you take the thermostat out and drive it around like that, you're going to end up warping it because the back of the head will end up with nothing but STEAM in it.

Now... how do you know it's overheating? Are you relying on the temp gauge on the dash or did you verify the temperature by aiming a temp gun at the t-stat housing? You need to do this before relying on the temp gauge because senders can be inaccurate (senders are at the back of the head... the temp SENSOR for the computer is on the thermostat housing itself).

What's your fan setup like? Are you running OEM? If so, do you have a shroud in place? How is the clutch on the mechanical fan? Is your electric fan kicking on when the temp goes above 220? If you're running dual electrics, make sure THEY are coming on when they're supposed to.

Make sure your radiator cap is holding good pressure.

If you've verified all of these things and are STILL having overheating issues, the problem is most likely a clog somewhere... best bet there is to flush the system with some cascade dishwashing powder. Probably a good idea to do either way, really.

Last edited by Basslicks; May 14, 2016 at 06:25 AM.
Old May 14, 2016 | 08:52 AM
  #54111  
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
alright, so the other than that, the condenser, dryer, and compressor would work both physically and electrically? I will be using the old style accumulator so I'm gonna have to do a little more research to see if new style hoses would plug on to it.
the accumulator would need to be changed too. you do not want to mix and match r-12 system components and r-134a components they operate at different pressures, with the 134a being much higher.
Old May 14, 2016 | 08:59 AM
  #54112  
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Originally Posted by MAVERICK1231
I HAVE A 95 JEEP CHEROKEE 4.0 6 CYL HIGHOUTPUT WITH OVER HEATING PROBLEMS. I HAVE SINCE INTALLED A NEW WATER PUMP, RADIATOR, CYLINDER HEAD AND HOSES YET IT STILL OVER HEATS. A BUDDY OF SUGGESTED RMOVING THE THERMOSTAT, WHICH I DID BUT NO CHANGES. NEEDS SOME HELP AND SOLUTIONS TO THIS PROBLEM. ANY SUGGESTIONS
:wall bash:
First question:
Is it overheating at speeds below 15mph, or at driving speed? Or both?

Second question:
Does the gauge steadily climb and then stop at a certain number, or is it erratic? How hot do you consider "overheating" to be?

And as he said above, please don't post in all capital letters. It's considered rude.
Old May 14, 2016 | 09:25 AM
  #54113  
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Originally Posted by Mr. Pink
the accumulator would need to be changed too. you do not want to mix and match r-12 system components and r-134a components they operate at different pressures, with the 134a being much higher.
I ended up fnding out that's the pre 96 AC components use threaded fittings for everything but the 97 up use hose/o-ring setup, so the new AC wouldn't work in my jeep anyways, I'm just going to stick with the older AC components.
Old May 14, 2016 | 05:20 PM
  #54114  
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I know stevemongr has the answer to this but is 135-140 degrees normal for the differentials?
Old May 14, 2016 | 06:19 PM
  #54115  
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I don't have the answer for normal, but my rear diff runs around 150F on highway. Front around 135.
Old May 14, 2016 | 07:45 PM
  #54116  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
I don't have the answer for normal, but my rear diff runs around 150F on highway. Front around 135.
I see. When I arrived home from a 2 hour trip, I checked the temp on the diff cover (3/8 thick) front and rear. It's 135 on both. 87-90 degrees on axle tube ends where the rear wheel bearings are housed. I would say that's ok.
Old May 14, 2016 | 10:49 PM
  #54117  
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Picked up a dash clock while I was at the JY today and I don't think I hav the plug in for it behind the dash, yes, I've checked all four different style dash clock plugs and my jeep has none of them. Anybody now how I can make my own wiring harness for this? In other words, which color wires go where?
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Old May 15, 2016 | 06:41 AM
  #54118  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Four inch lift = 15" collapsed, 24.6" extended, 9.6" travel. Bilstein 5100 Series Shock Absorber Jeep Cherokee Front 24-188197 Bilstein 5100 Series Shock Absorber Jeep Cherokee Rear 33-066868 Five to six inch lift = 16.9" collapsed, 28.44" extended Bilstein 5100 Series Shock Absorber Jeep Cherokee Front 24-185943


Thanks, that is very helpful.

RSWiser
Old May 15, 2016 | 07:29 AM
  #54119  
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
Picked up a dash clock while I was at the JY today and I don't think I hav the plug in for it behind the dash, yes, I've checked all four different style dash clock plugs and my jeep has none of them. Anybody now how I can make my own wiring harness for this? In other words, which color wires go where?
PM sent with link to diagram/description.
Old May 15, 2016 | 08:09 AM
  #54120  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
PM sent with link to diagram/description.
Can you PM me with it too? I have a clock that I'm wanting to put in, but it's from a different year, so I need to splice the wires in.



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