When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
What I would probably do in a case like that would be to leave the new compressor and drier factory sealed until you get to where you'll be working on it. In particular the drier should not be left open for more than a few minutes if at all possible. You might also want to consider getting some Nylog to use on the fittings, I've found it helps quite a bit in getting a good seal:
(Nylog blue works for R134 systems, Nylog red for R12. It's more of a matter of compatibility with the type of oil used, so if you were going to say use an alternative refrigerant and stick with R12-type mineral oil you would use Nylog Red.)
When installing the refrigerant oil you want to put the proper type and amount in the compressor as specified by the manufacturer after dumping out any old oil (or shipping oil if new). Put the rest required by the system in a couple of other places to distribute it. (Usually I'll put some in the drier and some in one or two of the hoses.)
A noisy compressor can definitely be caused by overcharging but I would not expect this to be the case unless more refrigerant had been added recently.
It actually started the summer before last when I recharged it. I searched for a solution for a while, but never got any explanations that held water until now. I think I will go ahead and try to bleed it down a little (once it warms up... too cold for A/C right now) and see what happens. Hopefully I can keep the other Jeep around until I know one way or the other.
Originally Posted by Joecam18
Just grabbed the first ZJ tie rod I could at the junk yard. Out of all the threads I read I never read anything about checking to see if the joint was good lmao
Some have had good luck in finding rods with good joints, most haven't had such luck.
Honestly though, the brand new parts from moog on rockauto.com will cost you 85 bucks plus taxes and shipping... usually about less than a hundo. May as well buy new at that point.
Some have had good luck in finding rods with good joints, most haven't had such luck.
Honestly though, the brand new parts from moog on rockauto.com will cost you 85 bucks plus taxes and shipping... usually about less than a hundo. May as well buy new at that point.
Ill bolt this one up and see how it feels and go from there. No income at this point so I may have to stick it out for the time being
Im planning on doing the rocker panels on my xj. 1998 model 4dr. Anyone know of a good write up or has some pictures of doing your own? Im planning on using Key Parts factory style rockers, anyone have any experience with them?
My jeep has a lot of play in the steering. Not sure why. I've already replaced the steering gear box, tiered ends, and track bar. It has helped a lot but I still have about 1-2" of play in the steering wheel before it will actually move tires
I'm looking to get some new tires on my 2001 Cherokee Sport 4x4. Does anyone know the size or name of these stock wheels, and what tires will fit on them? It currently has P235/70R15 tires.
My jeep has a lot of play in the steering. Not sure why. I've already replaced the steering gear box, tiered ends, and track bar. It has helped a lot but I still have about 1-2" of play in the steering wheel before it will actually move tires
Tie rod roll? That's actually pretty good. I can turn the wheel in my Wrangler back and forth between 10 and 2 without changing direction
A question for the experts: Is Motorcraft Mercon V ATF a good lubricant for my 1990 XJ automatic transmission?
I changed the auto transmission filter and fluid a couple of days ago, and the shifting seems to be a little rougher than it used to be.
Before the change it seemed to almost slide from one gear to the next without any abruptness at all.
I ask because the label states not to use it in transfer cases, which leads to my other question: Does the automatic and transfer case share ATF fluid?
Im planning on doing the rocker panels on my xj. 1998 model 4dr. Anyone know of a good write up or has some pictures of doing your own? Im planning on using Key Parts factory style rockers, anyone have any experience with them?
There are a few threads but I can't remember them. If you search in Google for Cherokee rocker replacement I'm sure they'll turn up! (although a few will be 2x6 and not the stock stuff)
Originally Posted by StoneWolfe
I'm looking to get some new tires on my 2001 Cherokee Sport 4x4. Does anyone know the size or name of these stock wheels, and what tires will fit on them? It currently has P235/70R15 tires.
Those rims are called Ecco. 7"x15", 5.75" backspacing. Original tire size LT225/75R15, pretty much all XJs can accomodate LT235/75R15 without lift or trim. They're good for up to a 10.5" wide tire.
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Tie rod roll? That's actually pretty good. I can turn the wheel in my Wrangler back and forth between 10 and 2 without changing direction
This, or a loose U joint in the steering column or shaft.
Originally Posted by jdjonesdr
Good morning guys.
A question for the experts: Is Motorcraft Mercon V ATF a good lubricant for my 1990 XJ automatic transmission?
I changed the auto transmission filter and fluid a couple of days ago, and the shifting seems to be a little rougher than it used to be.
Before the change it seemed to almost slide from one gear to the next without any abruptness at all.
I ask because the label states not to use it in transfer cases, which leads to my other question: Does the automatic and transfer case share ATF fluid?
Nope, it is very very thin. Dexron III or the old Mercon spec is the viscosity the AW4 works at. You can buy Dex/Merc (or "D/M") pretty much anywhere. Valvoline MaxLife seems to be pretty popular.
Dexron V *may* work and is supposed to be backwards compativle, but again is quite thin so it's a total gamble.
The transfer case and transmission physically do not share oil unless there is a leak.
My jeep has a lot of play in the steering. Not sure why. I've already replaced the steering gear box, tiered ends, and track bar. It has helped a lot but I still have about 1-2" of play in the steering wheel before it will actually move tires
Depending upon rustyness the frame rail near the steering box can flex or even break. I've read some replace the aluminum spacer between steering box and the frame(some break bolts during this process), some have loose bolts and some plate the frame rail, replace the spacer and install a brace too. I put a KOR steering box brace on mine and it did stiffen everything up some, would have made one but to save the few hours fab time to spend with my family was well worth just buying it.
Originally Posted by salad
This, or a loose U joint in the steering column or shaft.
Nope, it is very very thin. Dexron III or the old Mercon spec is the viscosity the AW4 works at. You can buy Dex/Merc (or "D/M") pretty much anywhere. Valvoline MaxLife seems to be pretty popular.
Thanks for your response.
Is this something I should act on immediately (to avoid damaging components in the tranny) or is just something I should consider changing ( to get back to my smooth as silk shifting)
Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
