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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Nov 15, 2015 | 02:19 AM
  #51946  
cherokee104's Avatar
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From: SOMERTON ARIZONA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Anybody know how to fix or know what it is to fix the heated seats on a 2000 jeep xj work? Both lights on switches flash...
Old Nov 15, 2015 | 03:53 AM
  #51947  
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From: St.Petersburg, Russia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
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Originally Posted by kgm
That is for OBD2, I need an OBD1 if that is possible.
Look at the videos in the thread attached: http://jeep-planet.ru/forum/discussi...trucker#latest

If understandable, will guide you further.
Old Nov 15, 2015 | 02:01 PM
  #51948  
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kgm
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From: Denver
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Just replaced my passenger door. Now it seems to be wanting to stay open, when you open it, it springs open, and sometimes it doesn't want to shut without being slammed. Should I take out the shims that were in there for the first door? I just used the same ones.

Edit: Maybe I just swapped the shims for top and bottom by accident. The lower piece of the door looks like its sticking out a bit too much while the top is too close to the body.

Last edited by kgm; Nov 15, 2015 at 02:23 PM.
Old Nov 15, 2015 | 10:30 PM
  #51949  
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From: Fayetteville, NC
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by H. Chinaski
I'm wondering if anyone could help with an issue I'm having.

1997 Cherokee 4.0 Sport

Ok so the headlight lever that you pull out of the dash. Completely out. And wouldn't go back in. That was fun driving home at night with nothing but hazards and high beams.
But I found out that whatever was holding it in place broke inside the headlight switch. Replaced that and now when I go to put the headlights on, the dash lights won't come on unless I move the lever around a bit and the tail lights won't come on unless I hit the brakes.

Could this be a bad fuse, a wire, or a bad headlight switch?

Thanks for any help.
Check your fuses maybe for dash lights. Probably try a new headlight switch, but don't plug it in cuz then you can't get your money back. Google nss for the taillights? I do know that if you fill out your profile with your yr-mk-mdl you won't have to list it every time or, put it in your sig

Did you just buy the xj? Mine had a couple wrong fuses in when I bought it

Last edited by crabmushrooms5; Nov 15, 2015 at 10:32 PM.
Old Nov 16, 2015 | 08:01 AM
  #51950  
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From: NW, MS 'Yall
Year: 97
Engine: 4.0
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So What ever came of the LED light?

Did you get it to work?
E
Old Nov 16, 2015 | 08:06 AM
  #51951  
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From: NW, MS 'Yall
Year: 97
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by kgm
Just replaced my passenger door. Now it seems to be wanting to stay open, when you open it, it springs open, and sometimes it doesn't want to shut without being slammed. Should I take out the shims that were in there for the first door? I just used the same ones.

Edit: Maybe I just swapped the shims for top and bottom by accident. The lower piece of the door looks like its sticking out a bit too much while the top is too close to the body.
I'd use a magic marker or Dykem dye to mark the post and then shut the door a few times, and then look for marks that scratched off the marker/paint and adjust accordingly.

Why did you replace the door in the first place?
If your door jamb (actual frame in body) is warped or out of alignment, there are bigger issues.

E
Old Nov 16, 2015 | 08:25 AM
  #51952  
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From: North Carolina
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by rockosocko
So What ever came of the LED light? Did you get it to work? E
you talking about the one I was doin? If so, I just put the AC adapter back in it. But I was looking at in of my hone car chargers and it has an output on it that may work, but not sure.
Old Nov 16, 2015 | 08:33 AM
  #51953  
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kgm
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From: Denver
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by rockosocko
I'd use a magic marker or Dykem dye to mark the post and then shut the door a few times, and then look for marks that scratched off the marker/paint and adjust accordingly.

Why did you replace the door in the first place?
If your door jamb (actual frame in body) is warped or out of alignment, there are bigger issues.

E
Ran it into a tree last year, which dented the rocker and the door. Window failed, lock failed, speaker, etc. Easier to just replace the door, but its a little wonky now with the new one.
Old Nov 16, 2015 | 08:36 AM
  #51954  
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From: Lantana, Fl
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
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Originally Posted by salad
These are resistors

Attachment 279085

They're used to reduce voltage or limit current in a circuit. You'll want to find a calculator online to tell you what kind you need (how many ohms) to knock the voltage down enough. Even 11V should be fine.

They use to be a few cents at Radio Shack.
Viva La Resistance!!! .....OHM....OHM.....OHM... Lol
Old Nov 16, 2015 | 10:32 AM
  #51955  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by Outlaw Star
Viva La Resistance!!! .....OHM....OHM.....OHM... Lol
Bwahahahahaha
Old Nov 16, 2015 | 10:35 AM
  #51956  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by Outlaw Star
Viva La Resistance!!! .....OHM....OHM.....OHM... Lol
Old Nov 16, 2015 | 05:38 PM
  #51957  
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From: Richmond, VA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
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Uh...got a little carried away pressing in an upper ball joint- wasn't watching as I was wrenching. Can I just keep going and hope it works its way in correctly? Or should I get it back out and start over? If I start over, should I shim the collar with something? Using a rental ball joint press...

First time (and hopefully last, except for the drivers sides) doing ball joints. See upside down image (sorry).

**Edit - Uploaded a correctly oriented pic.**
Attached Thumbnails XJ Ask the Question Thread-img_0013.jpg  

Last edited by LazyRPeople2; Nov 20, 2015 at 03:29 PM.
Old Nov 16, 2015 | 05:51 PM
  #51958  
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From: Laurium, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by LazyRPeople2
Uh...got a little carried away pressing in an upper ball joint- wasn't watching as I was wrenching. Can I just keep going and hope it works its way in correctly? Or should I get it back out and start over? If I start over, should I shim the collar with something? Using a rental ball joint press...

First time (and hopefully last, except for the drivers sides) doing ball joints. See upside down image (sorry).
Probably bad advise but at least one of mine did that when I was putting them in. I didn't catch it in time to fix it. I tried hammering it straight but it wouldn't go and I didn't want to try to press it back out. I just cranked down real hard and kept bashing it with the hammer. Eventually it straightened back out. There really is no good way of getting them in straight with the loaner presses...The autozone one sucks, cups were either way to big or just barely too small...
Old Nov 16, 2015 | 05:53 PM
  #51959  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
Probably bad advise but at least one of mine did that when I was putting them in. I didn't catch it in time to fix it. I tried hammering it straight but it wouldn't go and I didn't want to try to press it back out. I just cranked down real hard and kept bashing it with the hammer. Eventually it straightened back out. There really is no good way of getting them in straight with the loaner presses...The autozone one sucks, cups were either way to big or just barely too small...
If you get the right one from Advance, it has the proper angled cup. I think it's a 26-piece kit
Old Nov 16, 2015 | 06:42 PM
  #51960  
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From: Laurium, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
If you get the right one from Advance, it has the proper angled cup. I think it's a 26-piece kit
Nearest Advance Auto is 109 miles from me. I couldn't find anyone else besides AutoZone to rent from.



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