No problem! Im not at home right now but as soon as I do ill post some pictures on here. I just want to do this engine right on a limited budget (for the time being) and there is like no jeep clubs around me for support Glad CF is very supportive because ive got plenty more questions to come!

 

Please do, because a lot of manufactures left this hole or a bump where the hole would go in there as an indicator for orientation. This is very important for another reason. There are tabs on the rod bearing inserts to prevent it from spinning in the rod. These tabs are designed to counter against only one direction of rotation from the crank. If they get turned around and the rotation is reversed the tabs will flatten out over time and allow the rod bearing to spin.

 

hmm I knew about the tab orientation but I never knew why

 

And I am wrong here, I don't know what the hell is wrong with me...I have been doing this all my life and state something like that. Alzheimer's I guess. The tabs on yours should actually point towards each other on the same side so rotation shouldn't actually make a difference.


But I'm thinking the orientation of the bearings should be so that the pressure of the power stroke and rotation applies against the bearing where they are together solid rather than where the two tabs are that has less metal support surface.


Maybe I got that one right

 

alrigth, i was on here the other day with a misfire problem, i think i have a dead first cylinder walls looked scored, need to get a leak down but have replaced everything i can literally. looked at the valves and valve springs no play. that being said, i plan on rebuilding it. but with some pep. bore 30 over a comp cam with timing and lifter kit. just wondering if any one has done this combination before, and was wondering if someone had advice to brand of parts. i was looking at DNJ engine componets, or engine tech. the ebay stuff is useless, that i know, but rock auto has a kit that is DNJ as does jc whitney. just was wondering if anybody on here had any luck with this or suggestions thanks!

 

I'm trying to remove the axle shaft out of a Dana 44 I pulled from a Cherokee in a JY. Everything I have read says "pull out the shaft" like it just slides out. Obviously I knew that wasn't the case so I bought a slide hammer, I've been pounding on this thing for 30 minutes and it has not budged, WTF AM I DOING WRONG? The only thing I can think is at the moment I have the axle on jack stands and not on the ground or on a vehicle.

On a similar note: I plan on replacing the u-joint in the passenger side hub, I've read the write-up here as well as watched the bleepinjeep video on YouTube. It seems pretty straight forward, but then again so did pulling the shaft out of a d44, any extra tips?
Thank you.

 

I have to ask, which Cherokee? Front or rear 44?

 

Rear off an 87 I believe.

 

the bearing probably is sticking to the race (cup). I had same issue when trying to pull the shafts off the 44 I picked up. Expect to put new bearing and seal when you finally pull it out.

 

So I am doing it right, that makes me feel a little better. Thank you.

 

What is the name of the OBD plug in tool for your phone? Does it work for OBD-1? Trying to get something for my new van, just as preventative maintenance.

 

Great idea!, it will compliment their hats perfectly.

 

The foil hats actually act as an antenna.. Any PCT will tell you that!

Clarification: PCT- Paranoid Conspiracy Theorist.. IDK if I just made that up, but I've never seen it before..

 

The commonly referenced unit is an ELM-627 OBD-II to Bluetooth dongle. It's just OBD-II lol. OBD-I stuff is pretty hard to find and often you need some proprietary adapter The interfaces are totally different.

 

I'm wondering if anyone could help with an issue I'm having.

1997 Cherokee 4.0 Sport

Ok so the headlight lever that you pull out of the dash. Completely out. And wouldn't go back in. That was fun driving home at night with nothing but hazards and high beams.
But I found out that whatever was holding it in place broke inside the headlight switch. Replaced that and now when I go to put the headlights on, the dash lights won't come on unless I move the lever around a bit and the tail lights won't come on unless I hit the brakes.

Could this be a bad fuse, a wire, or a bad headlight switch?

Thanks for any help.