At .030, you're not even putting a dent in the cyl walls as the 242 (4.0L) was a destroked version of the 258 (4.2L). You'll be fine. As for rods and main caps, hope you marked them or noted the direction and location so you may assemble them as they came off. The pistons have to have the pins pressed onto the rods. Average cost at a machine shop is 10 bucks a piston. The AMC/Jeep I-6 relays on the crank counterweights to sling oil up to the cyl walls and camshaft along with the oil flowing back to the oil pan through the oil galleys.

 

Found a set of stock JK wheels and tires (almost new) on CL for DIRT CHEAP. I know I'll need wheel adapters so I can mount the 5x5 wheels on the cherokee, but can I get away with 1" adapters without having to grind down my wheel studs? Or do I have to go with 1.25"?

 

There are 1" 5x5" to 5.4.5" adapters? Where?

What's wrong with a quarter of an inch?

 

I do not know of any quality, heat treated wheel spacers/adapters that come in 1".
Since the wheels will only fit with adapters, I suggest a set of five.

 

On e-bay. not hub-centric wheel-centric however.

 

Hmmm no-name spacers oddly thinner than a trusted brand with questionable metalurgy and the wrong mounting... Pass

 

Nah, that sounds like the perfect way to take a questionably safe shortcut.

And this is why I generally tell people to simply avoid spacers

 

Best thing to save money on. Cheap *** wheel spacers. Let's use aluminum foil lug nuts too.

 

The wheels only keep you from hitting the ground at 70MPH, its not a big deal

 

 

 

Thank you for stepping in here I was speaking in terms of "general rule of thumb" practices as an engine builder of all types of engines. I did not realize the cylinder walls were so thick on these, That's fantastic!


As for the squirt holes, I'm pretty sure they do have them forged and drilled into the rod but OEM bearing sets may not have a corresponding hole in the bearing to take advantage of the squirt hole, and it probably doesn't need one because it most likely slings plenty around in there to keep everything lubed as you say.


But for balance reasons it should probably go together as it was designed though with all the squirt holes pointed towards the Camshaft incase of a slightly asymmetric forging. Or are these forged symmetrical?


Personally I like the idea of using a squirt hole because they are usually timed to squirt up into and on the bottom of the piston head to help cool the piston where it is thin and gets the hottest from combustion. Maybe not using these is what causes these to run fairly warm? But I'm thinking that with the oil pressure problems these already experience, opening more ports like squirt holes could cause even worse pressure issues.

 

Thanks guys im definitely going to have a machine shop press mine in as far as oil squirt holes im having an issue finding what you are talking about. I know Cummins and Cat engines literally have a tube that sits at the bottom of the bore which is plumbed into the galley to wet the skirt. As for the jeep the rod looks to be symmetrical? and I know the pistons "fat side" goes toward the right if you are in front of the block. Any info from the XJ vets???????? Thanks again

 

Thanks I was very curious as to how much it would cost.

 

Take a look at one of your rods. On the "Shoulder" of where the rod journal is there should be a hole in one side that goes through the shoulder into where the bearing insert goes. The bearing however may not have a hole to correspond with the hole in the rod. Please let us know. I am curious


P.S. Outlaw is on top of the XJ game better than most!