NP207 vs NP231.

How similar are the cases on these? Are the mounting holes in the cross member the same for these?

AX-5 vs. AX-15.

Are the lengths any different between these two?

I am looking to go long arm soon and need to know if I can use my current setup of tranny and t-case. I know I have the "un-popular" and "weaker" options and plan to upgrade those as funds allow. My current stock arm bushings are pretty rough and would like to go straight to long arms and not have to replace bushings in current arms or get aftermarket short arms. I am set on a kit already and will only replace my tranny and t-case if I absolutely have to.

 

AFAIK, there are no differences in how they mount to the crossmember. As far as how they bolt together, I don't think so, but I'm not sure. The biggest thing you need to look out for is the year split on 231 and 242 cases. In 1990, they changed it to a 23 spline input on the transfer case. I don't think your 207 has the 23, I believe it's still the 21 from earlier years.

Glad to hear from ya Duma! Be safe out on the water!

 

What size are 97455 on my 1999 drums? I need to work on the brakes this weekend.
Thanks

 

I'm trying to make sense of your question, but it's just not workin' out man. What are you needing to know the size of?

 

Lol, I'm going on a couple of hours of sleep! I knew it sounded wierd. I read that there are 9" and 10" drums. I just want to know which mine are or if it even makes a difference on what brake shoes to get. Without taking off the wheels that number is all I could read on the drums and I'm not sure I would trust a tape measurement.

 

MUCH BETTER!!!! Lol... and I totally understand sleep depravation, no worries.

Easy way to tell man... if the drum has fins, it's 10", if it's smooth, it's 9"

 

Perfect thanks bro!

 

 

I have an '86 and my current setup is a 4.3 v6, AX-5, NP207 the vacuum disconnect 30 and a 35 rear both with stock 4.10's.

At this point I want to get the B. Lee 3 link and need to know if the cross member will bolt up to my current setup. I asked him if it would on his thread about them but he was not sure and wanted pictures. I would send him the pictures but I am on the other side of the world from my Jeep that is why I am asking here. I do plan to swap to an AX-15 and NP231 when funds allow and he knows it will bolt up to that combo. Just not wanting to get rid of them yet if they are still working good.

 

Hey All,

I am in need of a new alternator, or at least I think so. I went wheeling last weekend and went through some water. On my drive home the "check gauges" light came on and the battery charging indicator was indicating 9 volts. I put the car in the driveway and put the battery on to charge. A couple days later I started the car and the dial was indicating a charge of 12 volts. I drove the car less than two miles and the "check gauges" light came on and the dial was indicating 9 volts.

Any ideas as to the issue? Should I be looking to get a new alternator? If so, any ideas on a good replacement that wont kill my wallet.

Also, I am in need of a new driver seat, anyone in Southern California have or know of anyone looking to get rid of seats?

 

Your axles don't have any bearing on the mounting situation. I understood your question perfectly. Yikes! An ax5 behind a 4.3 litre? Get rid of that thing quick!

I did find a thread when researching the differences between the ax5/np207 vs. ax15/np231 that might help you out a little more. It looks like there are differences between the mounting setups, but it also looks like the differences are easily overcome with light modification:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=956031

Post 5 is the tranmission/transfer cases side by side and post 6 is the mounting plate.

 

Thank you very much for that link. It looks like I can use the B. Lee cross member and just fab up that little bit of mount for now.

My tranny feels pretty good right now. I drove the Jeep from New Orleans to Fort Worth. Only did the trip one way when I moved. Did great on the highway. 70-80mph most of the way getting rough 17-18mpg. Not bad considering I have 33x12.5's under it.

I knew my axles had nothing to do with what I was asking. I was just giving a little more info on my setup.

 

Gotcha. That's good man. But yeah, that 4.3 liter, much like the jeep 4.0s, will soon roast that ax5.... there's just too much torque for that small of a tranny that's not even all that durable to begin with.

 

I have a 91XJ and I'm looking to trade my boat for a parts Jeep. What would be my best year to get? I don't need a motor but would like to upgrade my 5 speed for a auto. Also upgrade axles.

 

91-95 would be best as far as replacement parts. Sensors, engine parts, PCM, TCU, all is the same. You'd have all the HO electronics, and the open cooling system.

96 is a crap shoot of parts. Some will fit, some won't (I have a 92 DD and a 96 parts Jeep... this is why I know).


97+ is nice for the body parts (if you're looking to change or update the appearance)... the doors have a full window instead of split window and they changed the hatch to steel from fiberglass.

Downside is, pretty much NONE of the electronics will work because it's OBDII... AND IIRC, they swtiched to the low-pinion D30... but if it was equipped with a chrysler 8.25 rear, you have the benefit of 3" axle tubes and 29 spline axle shafts.

The 99+ has a good u-shaped intake manifold (though there is debate as to whether or not it really does any good - there is a certain amount of space saved)... and they added bellows to the exhaust manifold that helps it keep from cracking... BUT, the infamous 0331 head kicked in that year which had poor casting that can lead to cracked heads.

That's all I can think of right now.. I'm sure someone will chime in with more info and/or corrections.