Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 04:01 PM
  #53251  
93XJeeper's Avatar
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Originally Posted by salad
Yes there's a fuse in the PDC and a fuse in the junction block. Also a relay in each spot. I don't 1993 wiring so I can't tell you which one. Basically, battery -> fuse -> key -> NSS -> relay (fused) -> relay (fused) -> starter solenoid If memory serves, anyway.
well, so far I've checked the fuses and relays in the fuse box by battery and then I checked all the fuses under the dash. Where do I need to look to see what I missed
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 04:47 PM
  #53252  
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Soooo, after much digging, I found this,my he yellow wire comes from the fuse block in the engine bay all the way to here under the dash. Looks like the PO spliced into it adding a relay and this weird plug that is screwed to the bottom of the dash where your knees are. Looks to me like the PO spliced into this yellow wire in order to get power for whatever that plug is for.

XJ Ask the Question Thread-image-1022519982.jpg

The yellow wire is cut and spliced into another wiring thing. Yellow is suppose to be the the wire going from the ignition switch to the fuse block for the starter relay



XJ Ask the Question Thread-image-636127174.jpg

The yellow wires are spliced into a red and yellow wire that go into the wiring harness.



XJ Ask the Question Thread-image-815794911.jpg

The wiring harness connects to this plug thing



XJ Ask the Question Thread-image-4285905575.jpg

The other side of the wiring harness plugs into this relay.
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 04:51 PM
  #53253  
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Oh, and forgot to say, does anybody know what that connector on he lower dash is for?
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 05:08 PM
  #53254  
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Some kinda aftermarket doodad
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 05:51 PM
  #53255  
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Originally Posted by salad
Some kinda aftermarket doodad
well whatever it is, it's all gone now, put the two yellow wires back together and jeep starts fine now. Only thing is that I can hear something rattling inside the catalytic converter. Time for a new one!
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 06:14 PM
  #53256  
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I found similary ****ery on my '99, although it's a manual. Someone had added in a box that pretended to be a kill switch/alarm junk, it made a little red LED flash like an alarm system would, and you needed to press the clutch AND brake to start. One day it gave up the ghost. Junk
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 06:29 PM
  #53257  
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From: Laurium, MI
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I think I've seen one of those on the internet before. IIRC it was some sort of anti theft device. Is there a little card thingy you can pull out?
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 07:03 PM
  #53258  
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Yeah, I was thinking the same. Couldn't remember the brand name for the unit I was thinking of - had a couple thousand different combinations it could be, but it was a LITTLE more elaborate than that...
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 07:26 PM
  #53259  
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Now that I think about it, that yellow wire should be a good place to put a kill switch if one was needed.
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 08:10 PM
  #53260  
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Year: 1996 tudor,00 fodo, stock,stock
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by turtlenator
My 2000 Cherokee has an oil pressure issue. I replaced the sending switch and saw no change in the readings. That tells me the problem is likely worn bearings. The engine is original and has 179k on it. Here is the question for y'all. Is it easier to do an engine swap than just replacing the bearings? I can find an engine for under $200 locally at the wrecking/salvage/recycling yard. I figure an engine swap will take a day or 2 max. Bearing replacement will take at least 3-4 hours, and it could be polish on a turd. What is your opinion on the best avenue to take? The Jeep is in good shape and has minimal rust. Plus I just put new tires on it lol
May just need an oil pump. Sticky relief valve or worn out gerotor.
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 08:29 PM
  #53261  
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Default Automatic transmission

Hello I'm probably in the wrong place but this is all new to me. I have inherited my father's 1987 Jeep pick up it is in beautiful condition 87,000 original miles I have always driven a clutch this has a D with a circle around it is that overdrive? Do I drive it in 3? I live in mountain area I'm confused and don't want to ruin truck can you advise? Donna
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 09:38 PM
  #53262  
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Originally Posted by donna123
Hello I'm probably in the wrong place but this is all new to me. I have inherited my father's 1987 Jeep pick up it is in beautiful condition 87,000 original miles I have always driven a clutch this has a D with a circle around it is that overdrive? Do I drive it in 3? I live in mountain area I'm confused and don't want to ruin truck can you advise? Donna
Yes that's overdrive (4th). Don't worry about it. Just do your fluid changes regularly, keep up on maintenance. The AW4 is stout. If towing or hauling, a transmission cooler is invaluable.
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 09:44 PM
  #53263  
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Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by clawdog60
May just need an oil pump. Sticky relief valve or worn out gerotor.
true. Will check on next day that is warm enough. Minnesota's weather is spastic, to say the least
Old Mar 1, 2016 | 06:04 AM
  #53264  
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
Still can't figure out why my jeep won't start. I replaced the ignition switch and removed and had my starter tested. Still won't start. Does nothing when I turn he key. I check all the fuses and relays as well. Also, NSS is good and clean. Im getting no voltage to the little nut on the starter when I have someone turn the key. Any ideas?
Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
well whatever it is, it's all gone now, put the two yellow wires back together and jeep starts fine now. Only thing is that I can hear something rattling inside the catalytic converter. Time for a new one!
Glad you got it worked out man. If it ever happens again though, add MAP sensor to the things you should check. I was surprised to discover that this can cause a crank, no-start condition, but it can indeed.

Old Mar 1, 2016 | 06:13 AM
  #53265  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Glad you got it worked out man. If it ever happens again though, add MAP sensor to the things you should check. I was surprised to discover that this can cause a crank, no-start condition, but it can indeed. Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEpj6SALSlE
very good to know. Thank u for sharing



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