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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 07:39 PM
  #45751  
Wolf427's Avatar
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0l I6
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Whats the best way to burp a 4.0l without the rear coolant temperature sensor?
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 08:09 PM
  #45752  
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Originally Posted by Wolf427
Whats the best way to burp a 4.0l without the rear coolant temperature sensor?
I "burped" mine using the coolant overflow bottle. Maybe I'm weird or something but it was easy. I let it idle up to temp and would crack the cap on the bottle every now and again while it was running. Do this at your own risk though.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 08:20 PM
  #45753  
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Park Break Lock Ignition Problem! Fixed Park-Break Lock, But still Won't Start.. Has This Happened To You?

I originally posted this elswhere on the site, but meant to post it here. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/par...oblems-199755/

I fixed the park lock slider in the steering column

, but it looks like I have another issue. I think it may be the NSS. This is why: When in park, break depressed, I turn the ignition to start. I hear something being energized, but no turnover. It's like the engine thinks it's in gear. Think I'm right about pulling and cleaning the NSS? The thread that the hyperlink goes to is fairly detailed and should prove helpful to those trying to see if there park break interlock is the issue for not being able to to get the key out. The cylinder and starter seem fine. I put a few pics in there and a reference.

Park Break Lock Slider






This is what it connects to.

Please let me know your ideas!!! Need to get back on the road again...

Thanks!!!

- Muddriver57

Old Sep 28, 2014 | 08:50 PM
  #45754  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Wolf427
Whats the best way to burp a 4.0l without the rear coolant temperature sensor?
Ya don't need to.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 08:53 PM
  #45755  
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Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988
I "burped" mine using the coolant overflow bottle. Maybe I'm weird or something but it was easy. I let it idle up to temp and would crack the cap on the bottle every now and again while it was running. Do this at your own risk though.
Here's what the factory says for Renix.



Check this out from the FSM

This system does not have a radiator pressure cap. Instead the pressure cap is mounted on the coolant pressure bottle. System coolant flows directly through a fully pressurized Hot-Type expansion bottle. Coolant flows through the pressure bottle at all times during engine operation whether the engine is cold or at normal operating temperatures.

Larger coolant volume caused by thermal expansion during engine operation is absorbed by the expansion chamber in the bottle. Air trapped in the system is purged through the pressure cap vent valve during maximum coolant expansion..
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 08:59 PM
  #45756  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Here's what the factory says for Renix.

Check this out from the FSM

This system does not have a radiator pressure cap. Instead the pressure cap is mounted on the coolant pressure bottle. System coolant flows directly through a fully pressurized Hot-Type expansion bottle. Coolant flows through the pressure bottle at all times during engine operation whether the engine is cold or at normal operating temperatures.

Larger coolant volume caused by thermal expansion during engine operation is absorbed by the expansion chamber in the bottle. Air trapped in the system is purged through the pressure cap vent valve during maximum coolant expansion..
I see. I did it my way from watching my bottle expand and never seemed to release any stored pressure. Like it couldn't vent the air. Probably need the correct cap for my new bottle.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 09:08 PM
  #45757  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988
I see. I did it my way from watching my bottle expand and never seemed to release any stored pressure. Like it couldn't vent the air. Probably need the correct cap for my new bottle.
It's meant to hold the air and expand. When it gets to (cruiser, correct me if I'm wrong here) 16psi, the cap vents. Now I know what cruiser (and the FSM) say about this, but the truth is sometimes you need to burp the system. Conditions are never ideal, especially when some components are over 20 years old.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 09:13 PM
  #45758  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
It's meant to hold the air and expand. When it gets to (cruiser, correct me if I'm wrong here) 16psi, the cap vents. Now I know what cruiser (and the FSM) say about this, but the truth is sometimes you need to burp the system. Conditions are never ideal, especially when some components are over 20 years old.
Correct.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 09:55 PM
  #45759  
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I just drove my '01 jeep 2.5 hours straight on a road trip, and when i got back here, i filled up my tank and then went to the store. everything was running fine until i got back out to my car after the store (maybe 10 minutes later) and when i started it, the whole car shook and it was making a sputtering noise and definitely not acting normal. I immediately turned it off and let it sit for a few minutes before trying again. it repeated the same thing but a little less violent so I drove it around the parking lot for a bit and it was perfectly fine. I talked to a friend who knows some about cars and he said it might be because since i moved to iowa, i've been using the part ethanol gas. after doing some research, the only solution i can think of is that it could be heat soak?
i know little to nothing about cars so don't mind my long question, i'm just a concerned car owner! thanks
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 09:56 PM
  #45760  
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So I also noticed today small speakers in my "knee" panel on the bottom side of my dash. They look factory, and it looks as if the are looped in between the radio and the door speakers. My door speaker covers also have Jenson or clarion written on the stock cover. Guess this was an optional package for my Jeep back in '87. It'd be a good place to mount some tweeters I suppose.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 10:15 PM
  #45761  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988
So I also noticed today small speakers in my "knee" panel on the bottom side of my dash. They look factory, and it looks as if the are looped in between the radio and the door speakers. My door speaker covers also have Jenson or clarion written on the stock cover. Guess this was an optional package for my Jeep back in '87. It'd be a good place to mount some tweeters I suppose.
You have the optional Jenson AccuSound upgrade, which means you either have a Limited or Laredo trim level. Good luck finding a speaker to fit in there. I've heard there aren't any worth the money.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 10:17 PM
  #45762  
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Originally Posted by macandcherry
I just drove my '01 jeep 2.5 hours straight on a road trip, and when i got back here, i filled up my tank and then went to the store. everything was running fine until i got back out to my car after the store (maybe 10 minutes later) and when i started it, the whole car shook and it was making a sputtering noise and definitely not acting normal. I immediately turned it off and let it sit for a few minutes before trying again. it repeated the same thing but a little less violent so I drove it around the parking lot for a bit and it was perfectly fine. I talked to a friend who knows some about cars and he said it might be because since i moved to iowa, i've been using the part ethanol gas. after doing some research, the only solution i can think of is that it could be heat soak?
i know little to nothing about cars so don't mind my long question, i'm just a concerned car owner! thanks
I was going to suggest heat soak. Different gas could be a culprit. If it happens again after that fuel has been used/diluted, it's likely heat soak.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 10:21 PM
  #45763  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
You have the optional Jenson AccuSound upgrade, which means you either have a Limited or Laredo trim level. Good luck finding a speaker to fit in there. I've heard there aren't any worth the money.
I was debating doing the doorless mod at some point. I was thinking I could mount the tweeters there and do some 5.25s in the kick panels. I don't think the little speakers in there now even work.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 10:42 PM
  #45764  
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So I found this in my glove box today while putting my interior back together. Not sure its even jeep related, but if anyone knows what this is please shed some light. I have a 87 Laredo 4.0 auto D35
Edit: so I googled the first line of numbers and it's a service tag. I'm guessing on the next line the 3 55 represent my gear ratio. What does the next group of numbers mean?
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Last edited by drhoward1988; Sep 28, 2014 at 10:45 PM.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 10:43 PM
  #45765  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988
So I found this in my glove box today while putting my interior back together. Not sure its even jeep related, but if anyone knows what this is please shed some light. I have a 87 Laredo 4.0 auto D35

Attachment 254570
Differential tag from your axle



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