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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 09:13 AM
  #45736  
olibgood's Avatar
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Default Brake hose to rear drums

Hi guys,
I have a leaking cylinder on the rear left drum brake, no big deal I thought, I got two new cylinders and was about to replace them both but have found the hoses are rusted tight into the nut on the back of the cylinder. I have freed the nut with penetrating oil and it will loosen slightly from the cylinder, but it will not rotate around the brake line pipe, so as I turn the nut it starts to twist the pipe.
I have decided to replace the brake lines to each drum, and cylinders and springs and shoes.
My question; can I just cut off the old hoses and then unscrew the fittings and put on new hoses? Will I have brake fluid flowing out as I replace the hoses? I am going to bleed the lot out after and replace but I don't want to be lying under the axle installing lines with a shower of fluid to dodge!
Any advice would be really helpful as this is my DD and I can't be out of action for days
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 09:39 AM
  #45737  
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I6
Default

Originally Posted by cruiser54
Use just one sensor/sender when the vehicle is wired for two?
Yup. I don't want to drill and tap this head. I've spent too much time and money already. One will have to do.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 11:00 AM
  #45738  
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Originally Posted by Buddo95
So my blower quit working a few daya ago so I checked the fuse. Melted. So I yanked it out and replace it with another 30A fuse and tried it out. Worked just fine for a few minutes and then I shut off again. Checked the fuse again, this one is melted too. Any idea why the fuse is melting after running the blower for a few minutes. And no I don't mean blown, the plastic housing is melting on the fuse

the blower motor resistor has failed. Its located below the dash on passenger side, behind a small plastic shield..


#1. It takes a 25 amp fuse.
#2. Likely the switch has to be R&R'd


Your blower motor switch has also failed.
be certain the switch is properly wired.. As long as U have all of the fan speeds, its likely U have on issues.. just a failed switch. And resister
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 12:20 PM
  #45739  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by Wolf427

Yup. I don't want to drill and tap this head. I've spent too much time and money already. One will have to do.
Then your gauge won't work. The front sensor is for your computer. The rear sender is for your gauge. You can buy a thermostat housing with both openings if yours doesn't have the second one
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 01:31 PM
  #45740  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Default

Originally Posted by Wolf427
Yup. I don't want to drill and tap this head. I've spent too much time and money already. One will have to do.
So, which are you gonna eliminate? The sending unit for the gauge/dash, or the sensor for the PCM?
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 01:47 PM
  #45741  
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From: Mississauga, Ontario
Year: 1996
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Then your gauge won't work. The front sensor is for your computer. The rear sender is for your gauge. You can buy a thermostat housing with both openings if yours doesn't have the second one
Oh can you? I'll look into the then.

Originally Posted by cruiser54
So, which are you gonna eliminate? The sending unit for the gauge/dash, or the sensor for the PCM?
Well I'm keeping the one for the PCM, but I'm going to look into the T-housing for two sensors.

How did it work on the '98 with only the one sensor?
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 02:16 PM
  #45742  
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CJG
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From: Pasadena, Ca.
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L 4-cyl.
Default

Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
For what it's worth, I personally stick to Firestone when I buy new tires. I just put Firestone Destination LE2 tires on my girlfriend's Dodge Journey. They're smooth, quiet, they have great reviews, and she loves them. Just make sure you're looking at LE2 (not LE) if you are interested. The first LE series wasn't very good.
Thanks, Clown, just wanted to let you know that I wound up getting 4 of the Firestone Destination LE2 tires. I only have 30 miles on them since yesterday but so far they fit the bill perfectly. Plus I bought them at he local Firestone store where not only were they $10 cheaper per tire than Tire Rack but they're running a 25%-Off sale right now on the Destinations so, with all the balancing and mounting and tax charges added on, it was still below $500 for the 4 installed.

Thanks again.

CJ
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 04:14 PM
  #45743  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Originally Posted by CJG

Thanks, Clown, just wanted to let you know that I wound up getting 4 of the Firestone Destination LE2 tires. I only have 30 miles on them since yesterday but so far they fit the bill perfectly. Plus I bought them at he local Firestone store where not only were they $10 cheaper per tire than Tire Rack but they're running a 25%-Off sale right now on the Destinations so, with all the balancing and mounting and tax charges added on, it was still below $500 for the 4 installed.

Thanks again.

CJ
No problem, buddy. Glad you like them
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 06:08 PM
  #45744  
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From: Wetumpka, AL
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Pulled my gauge cluster and speedo cable fell out of the back of the cluster and the plastic stub sticking out of the fire wall. I put it back in during reassembly the way it came out and my speedo isn't working. Any ideas? Plastic tip on the cable inserts into the back of the cluster correct?
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 06:33 PM
  #45745  
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Short cable? Spin it as it goes back into the housing near the firewall. When it stops spinning, it's engaged.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 06:43 PM
  #45746  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Short cable? Spin it as it goes back into the housing near the firewall. When it stops spinning, it's engaged.
Ya short, maybe 12in. Thanks. I'll give it a try in a few days. Gotta pull the cluster back out to replace some bulbs....joy.
Edit: is the short cable supposed to bottom out in housing. At first I stuck it in there and it never bottomed out.

Last edited by drhoward1988; Sep 28, 2014 at 06:51 PM.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 06:56 PM
  #45747  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
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Stock radio's clock doesn't display. It did display the time a while ago.

Today i unhooked the battery to clean the posts and clamps, could that cause anything? I can't figure out anything.



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Old Sep 28, 2014 | 06:59 PM
  #45748  
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From: Minnesota
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Stock radio's clock doesn't display. It did display the time a while ago.

Today i unhooked the battery to clean the posts and clamps, could that cause anything? I can't figure out anything.



Attachment 254546
Did you "push for time"? Lol
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 07:01 PM
  #45749  
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
Did you "push for time"? Lol
I'm deaf. I never bother with the radios unless it's setting up the clock.

Since I cleaned the posts, I knew the clock was reset, so I wanted to change the time so I turned the key and saw that the display wouldn't come on.
Old Sep 28, 2014 | 07:16 PM
  #45750  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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I've never messed with a stock radio, but there may be a fuse in the back. I'd check the primary fuse panel first



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