Would I need stud welder for that? Or could I use my flux core?

 

"It don't work. Sits at 0 doesnt go up or down sender is brandy new"

First off put the brandy down. Couldn't resist.

Wonder if you got the sender for the idiot light instead of for the gauge?

 

See, personally im not sure. I've been around when it was done. The hammering part. They weld on like 5-20 depending on the size of the dent and pull out the dent to as flush as possible and then compound, sand blah, blah, blah.

 

nope.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/w...archTerm=temp#

 

Sounds like I have some googling to do. I don't really see me investing in a stud welder. If I can just weld studs with what I have and pull it out then I'd go for that.

I might just have to trim the panel back for clearance and wheel as is for awhile. My rear cargo pan needs replaced. It's like swiss cheese. So I'm really wanting to go all out I'm the rear, raise tank, shock mounts through floor and now... maybe comp cut/ tubbed? Lol.

 

If you plan on getting armor there, I would just get behind there, bang it out flush to the armor and call it a day

 

dose any no how to git the wipper switch out 90 choerkee

 

It seems that English may not be your first language.

The wiper switch is below the steering wheel.

 

Ah, the little-known whipper switch, last used in the state of Alabama in '63. I wonder how you got one in your '90

 

Bought a 00 Jeep Cherokee SE 4.0L in good shape, runs a little rough. Did a lot of basic maintenance to baseline: Oil Change, Champion Plugs, Sea Foam, Fuel Injectors, Battery, Coolant Flush, Steering Flush, Transmission Flush, and High Octane Fillup. Took for a drive and got P0306 Misfire CEL. Reset the PCM, tested Ignition Rail per Chiltons, Good. Redrove and got P0300, P0301, and P0306. Traced out Fuel Injector Wires and had ground on NR1, replaced injector pigtail, good. Redrove, P0306 again. Tested the CKP, TBS, CMP, and Cleaned TB, good. Retested Ignition Rail and tested good, but felt as if the Rail may be producing a weak spark. Tested the rail as follows: Pins 2-1, 2-3, 2-4 (all .8 Ohms); Plugs 1-6, 2-5, 3-4 per Chiltons (all approx 15.o KOHms); this is where I diverged. Tested Pin 1 and Spark plugs 1&6 (.55MOhms), Pin 3 and plugs 2&5 (infinite), same for Pin 4 and plugs 3&4. Then I tested Pin 3 with 1&6 plugs read .5MOhms, same for Pin 4 with 1&6; 2, 3, 4, 5 all tested infinite. This looks like an internal failure in the Ignition Rail which likely gets worse once warmed up. Can anyone confirm resistance testing I just described as it makes sense, but there is nothing available in any techmanual I have found before dumping a new ignition rail in place for no reason.

 

i know where it is just how to git the handel out of the switch

 

oh SALAD. i got an ohm reading of 195.4 what do you make of that?

 

Oh.....Didn't get that from the first post somehow. Must be old age creeping up on me.

Push the handle in, turn counter-clockwise a bit, and pull it out.

 

So the water pump on the mj is squealing. I was wondering if there is any credit to the info that says the 2002 and up Wrangler 4.0 water pump is like hescos? And if it'd even bolt up

 

A new replacement will be fine.