ABS works pretty good when it's slickery out. My XJ will be my DD for another couple years so I'd like hang on to the ABS. I was considering the swap because I need new leaf springs and it seemed reasonable to do both at the same time.

I have got bogged down several times this winter and want a locker. I have factory LSD and it's helped but now I might just look into a locker for the D30 up front. Seems like it goes against conventional wisdom to throw good money into a locker for Dana 35.

 

I hope you meant selectable locker. If you want to keep ABS for when it's slippery, an auto locker is the last thing you want...

 

My 2000 Cherokee has an oil pressure issue. I replaced the sending switch and saw no change in the readings. That tells me the problem is likely worn bearings. The engine is original and has 179k on it. Here is the question for y'all. Is it easier to do an engine swap than just replacing the bearings? I can find an engine for under $200 locally at the wrecking/salvage/recycling yard. I figure an engine swap will take a day or 2 max. Bearing replacement will take at least 3-4 hours, and it could be polish on a turd. What is your opinion on the best avenue to take? The Jeep is in good shape and has minimal rust. Plus I just put new tires on it lol

 

Motor swaps are easy on these, but could we have a few more details about the problem? What exactly are these readings that have you worried?

 

Yes, I should have typed "selectable locker" to be clear. I look at it this way: ABS is good for stopping when you are going fast and the selectable locker is good for keeping you moving when you are going slow.

 

oil pressure while cold is at normal levels (about 40 psi) Once engine warms up to normal operating temp, the oil pressure drops to 0. It does go up on acceleration, but once I reach cruising speed, the pressure returns to zero.

 

I would check the pressure with a mechanical gauge before condemning the engine. If you really had zero oil pressure at cruising speed I'd think you'd be getting some "interesting" noises and maybe a rod through the side of the block when you hit the loud pedal.

 

don't currently have access to mechanical gauge, and to go out and buy one just for this

 

They're not all that expensive and a good troubleshooting tool to have.

 

How about to have one in your toolkit for the rest of your life?

You can rent one from an auto parts store and return it for a full refund.

 

I am in my mid 50's and am arthritic. lol I may buy a a pressure tester, but I really do not see me doing my own mechanical work much longer. Rebuilt 1st engine at 12 with dad's assistance. And between the age of 16 and 40 I probably built 2-3 dozen engines. I don't know everything, but I know where to seek info, and who to seek it from. Y'all say buy or rent a gauge. I will defer to your suggestion and purchase one this week. Thank you

 

i got a question, my back passenger door (4 door) wont open from the outside but it will from the inside just fine, any recommendations on what i could do to rectify the situation? ive never had any issues with anything on the doors other than having to put in new speakers or have hinges welded in the front, so i have no clue where to start.

 

Maple Man, I have had this issue with other vehicles. This if typically fixed by opening the door from the inside, removing the door panel, and looking for a broken or missing clip.

 

Yep. There's a good chance the clip broke, the rod separated from it.

 

Lately the jeep has been acting up. It wouldn't start when I'd turn the key, everything would turn but the starter wouldn't do anything. But if I go under the jeep and use a screw driver to jump it, I can start it no problem. So sounds to me like it's getting power but something internally is wrong with it. Do I need a new starter or is this something else?