Salad - that was good feedback.

I've looked at many threads regarding Differential & Oils, and there's always a mixed bag of Questions & Answers (varying opinions).

Took my truck to Trans Shop for New T-case Seals & F+R Differential Pinion Seals, and the Shop called & said because I had a hitch on the truck, they called the Dealer to get specs on my VIN & they were told to use 75w140, and it'd be an increased cost of $100.

Money is tight, so I approved 75w90, for 2 reasons = 1. I never tow or off road & 2. I could find nothing in my paper work, suggesting I had tow package. In the owner manual, it says Class III + IV tow pkg, to use 75w140.

In the end, I don't know if I made the right call. I don't know why it was going to be an increased cost of $100, because in the manual it says that only the Rear would require 140, if with tow pkg. & it only requires 2.5 pints (1.5qt).

I don't know. Trans Shop is apparently having a lot of trouble with the Rear Pinion Seal, because after having the truck 2 days last week, I drove it for 50 miles the next day, to find it leaking. I brought it back this past Monday & I know they didn't work on it for the 1st (3) days & still today, they still got it & I'm in the dark.

I don't know what curve ball they're going to throw at me, and if its going to be legit.

What should or could I expect? Anyone?

 

My XJ has a button on the rear dome light, near the lift gate. Is that supposed to be a switch ? It doesn't move, and feels solid.
Just wonderin'......

 

Picture?

 

100$?! What a joke that stuff is $8.99 at advance auto. It sounds to me like these people don't know what they are doing, or they let the new guy work on your jeep.

 

The heavier weight gear oil costs the same as the lighter weight. Asking another $100 just for that seems crooked.
You will be just fine with the standard weight that you used/approved. When thicker oil is necessary, it is only in the rear differential.

 

Cole - $100 did appear steep, simply for using thicker (140) Gear Oil. We all know Repair Shops are marking up Parts, etc., they use, yet how much is a reasonable mark up for Oil, especially when its something they probably order in bulk.

The feedback here provides me a smidgen of peace that I didn't exert a poor decision.

As for retail cost of Gear Oil, the local Auto Parts are avg. 14.99 for 75w90 (no discount). Pep Boys had it for $13.99. The best discount to acquire is to order parts & additives online, using promo codes - 20% - 40% off

Its what would be considered a reputable Repair Shop, and no doubt know what they're doing as for Trans & Related repairs, as well as conducting their business. I However, have not changed - Trusting... Providing Benefit of the Doubt, with every hope that I'm not dealing with another someone that is attempting to take advantage, exploit... Pull a Fast One!

Steve - You are correct, Sir. The Owner Manual specifically said the Thicker Oil was for the Rear Diff..

 

Yeah. It's so you can turn the interior lights on or off as you wish should you have a tailgate party.

Smack the button with a mini sledge hammer to free it up.

 

Sounds more like a pain in the *** fee. 75w90 they likely have lying around in bulk but order 75w140 as required.

Nothing changes regarding axles when the towing package is equipped on these vehicles, it's just the *use* of the vehicle changes. If you're not towing with your Jeep than the hitch is just a fancy piece of metal saving you if you're rear-ended. Something tells me that Chrysler isn't doing differential oil every time they install a hitch!

Seals that go out fast typically indicate that someone didn't reinstall things properly or that the bearing behind them is wearing out. Depending on how much these guys charge for labour to replace bearings and set up the gears again it may be worth your time to look at a used axle, if that's the diagnosis. Sounds silly I know but there are options!

 

Just got home with the Jeep & as for the Seal/ Gasket repairs, all should be well.
[F+R Diff. Pinion Seals + T-Case Seals]

The Jeep went back to the Trans Shop after discovering Differential was leaking (again), which glancing at from the ground, appeared to stem from the Pinon Seal, but instead it was the placement of Rear Differential Cover Gasket sealant that failed (shifted out of place during install). I am a reasonable person & say, 'it happens'. Its not something they did purposely or happened due to lack of knowledge or aptitude...

Unlike the fella that tampered with my Rear Pinion Seal (behind my back) & replaced a non-leaking Seal & poorly installed a new one, that leaked & puddled, since he 'completed' his abuse of my vehicle. Matters worse, he was in utter denial of his failure & to this day, believes I should pay him for the "repair". If not insulting enough, he's attempting to charge twice the labor cost than the Trans Shop is for .05 hours.

I've been through the ringer, its true. I'm not stupid, or meaning to appear gullible, but when & how does placing Trust into people, providing benefit of the doubt, become a Green Light to try & take advantage of / Exploit someone? [sigh]

I may have a new issue - unsure at this time, but the Temp. Gauge was acting erratically. When I parked, the needle was jumping back n forth, then bottomed out & ceased. I never saw this before - Reason for concern?

Thanks Again - A lot of Great, Sincere Help/ Info on these here forums.

 

Yeah track bar should only affect side-to-side placement. One side being angled in says "control arm bushings" to me.

 

Agreed, or possibly a bent (or misadjusted) control arm

 

Finally doing the brake line. The inverted flare union for my two sections of pipe that AutoZone sold is brass but is Not a compression fitting. It is inverted flare. Is this good?

 

Well I'll check control arm bushings again on the uppers but lowers are poly and about 1 year old.

 

Question. Does the AC Condensor tie into the radiator or is it separate on the 01 xj. Wanna confirm before I tear apart and have no way I getting back to advance. Plus their site doesn't confirm it only has 2 (the second of which is for postal jeeps)

 

u l need to pull out radiator support and the header panel to make room to pull out the Condensor without pulling the radiator all the way out.