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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 854
Likes: 1
From: Minnesota
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 854
Likes: 1
From: Minnesota
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It's happened the last 3 times I've been in 4 wheel drive. The first time i replaced all the linkage components, the second time I replaced a bent cross member on the transmission thinking the linkage was getting caught on something, the third time I just put it back together in 2WD.
Whats happening is the rubber grommet that holds the whole linkage together keeps popping out. This makes it so the linkage is no longer connected to the transfer case and rather than sliding back and forth, parallel to the transmission, it ends up just twisting in place.
Is there a part or jerry rigged way of replacing the grommet on the linkage with something that will stop falling out of place?
Thanks
Whats happening is the rubber grommet that holds the whole linkage together keeps popping out. This makes it so the linkage is no longer connected to the transfer case and rather than sliding back and forth, parallel to the transmission, it ends up just twisting in place.
Is there a part or jerry rigged way of replacing the grommet on the linkage with something that will stop falling out of place?
Thanks
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
It's happened the last 3 times I've been in 4 wheel drive. The first time i replaced all the linkage components, the second time I replaced a bent cross member on the transmission thinking the linkage was getting caught on something, the third time I just put it back together in 2WD.
Whats happening is the rubber grommet that holds the whole linkage together keeps popping out. This makes it so the linkage is no longer connected to the transfer case and rather than sliding back and forth, parallel to the transmission, it ends up just twisting in place.
Is there a part or jerry rigged way of replacing the grommet on the linkage with something that will stop falling out of place?
Thanks
Whats happening is the rubber grommet that holds the whole linkage together keeps popping out. This makes it so the linkage is no longer connected to the transfer case and rather than sliding back and forth, parallel to the transmission, it ends up just twisting in place.
Is there a part or jerry rigged way of replacing the grommet on the linkage with something that will stop falling out of place?
Thanks
Gotta ask though.
How are your motor mounts and trans mount?
Took my Jeep to a mechanic shop. He did some diagnostics and found that my AC Compressor was struggling to keep up and it was causing the AC to over heat which in turn was causing the radiator to heat up. Find out Saturday when I go for a trail ride if this did the trick. RSWiser
Another short trail ride. After replacing my AC compressor. Started up the trail. Temp was holding at 212. Mild climbing dirt road. Temp started climbing, got to 220. No problem. Stopped to turn around. Next 20 seconds, the Temp went to max and Check Gauges light came on. Started down trail and in 20 seconds I was back to 220 temp.
What is causing me to overhead, only when there is mild stress on the engine. Does not overheat while idling for just driving around. Only when I start up hill. No antifreeze in oil.
RSWiser
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Another short trail ride. After replacing my AC compressor. Started up the trail. Temp was holding at 212. Mild climbing dirt road. Temp started climbing, got to 220. No problem. Stopped to turn around. Next 20 seconds, the Temp went to max and Check Gauges light came on. Started down trail and in 20 seconds I was back to 220 temp.
What is causing me to overhead, only when there is mild stress on the engine. Does not overheat while idling for just driving around. Only when I start up hill. No antifreeze in oil.
RSWiser
What is causing me to overhead, only when there is mild stress on the engine. Does not overheat while idling for just driving around. Only when I start up hill. No antifreeze in oil.
RSWiser
Are you running large tires on stock gears with an automatic transmission?
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: Hagerstown MD
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 w/Flux Capacitor
It takes my jeep about 9-14 cranks to start normally in the morning. If i turn it off after driving it 10 minutes then turn it back on it takes 2-5 cranks. Does this sound normal?
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Nope. You're losing fuel pressure while sitting either from leaking fuel injectors or fuel pump check valve.
I broke 1 of my crossmember bolts. Luckily its the actual bolt head that broke which threads into (I assume) a welded nut-sert on the frame rail.
Can I punch this nut out and replace it ala the rear shock attachment point?
I am going to drill it out tomorrow and attempt this, but figured I'd ask first. I have a spare bolt that is the same size so I'm just going to toss it in there via some copper wire.
Can I punch this nut out and replace it ala the rear shock attachment point?
I am going to drill it out tomorrow and attempt this, but figured I'd ask first. I have a spare bolt that is the same size so I'm just going to toss it in there via some copper wire.
I removed the Fan Clutch and installed three electric fans no problems until lately. Replaced water pump 3 years ago. Flushed when I replaced radiator earlier this year.
32" Tires, Gears replaced to 4:10
RSWiser
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I broke 1 of my crossmember bolts. Luckily its the actual bolt head that broke which threads into (I assume) a welded nut-sert on the frame rail.
Can I punch this nut out and replace it ala the rear shock attachment point?
I am going to drill it out tomorrow and attempt this, but figured I'd ask first. I have a spare bolt that is the same size so I'm just going to toss it in there via some copper wire.
Can I punch this nut out and replace it ala the rear shock attachment point?
I am going to drill it out tomorrow and attempt this, but figured I'd ask first. I have a spare bolt that is the same size so I'm just going to toss it in there via some copper wire.
Get drillin' :thumbsdown:
Alrighty. This is spiking relatively fast right? Could be air trapped in there. I'm assuming this is related to driving up hill?




