Anyone know the bolt sizes for the rear exhaust hanger (beside the gas tank)? The front bolt fell out. These are the ones that hold the hanger on the frame.

 

 

Turns out my cylinder head is cracked, so I need a new one. The place I brought it to want $542 for the valve job, resurface, and magnaflux, with an extra $120 to fix the crack. No way am I doing that anymore. A scrap yard accross the street from my work has a 2000 Cherokee sport, and I'm wondering if I should grab the head. They want $100. I would buy it an get it magnafluxed before installing, but I don't want to waste $56 on top of that just to find out that head is also cracked. What do you guys think?

EDIT: They will refund me if its cracked, so the new question is, will the 2000 head fit a 1996 block?

Edit 2: ah remembered only 96-98 heads are compatible.

 

u can get a Tupy head from 2002-2006 4.0 wngines

 

That will fit a '96?

 

oh yours a 96? Then u can get 91-99 head. Although you can just plug the coolant temp port on the back of the 7120 head (91-95).

 

Good to know. Thanks for the help.

Decided I'm going to buy a new/rebuilt head from 4wheelparts.com $476. There's a store close to me, so no shipping charges, or import fees.

 

I'm repainting the bottom of my doors and the rocker panels. Of course what I though was only surface rust on the panels were actually a little worse (although not as bad as some rocker panels I've seen around here...)

My question is, what's my best solution here if I want to avoid the holes getting bigger? I need to paint pretty soon since it's my DD, but I'd like to get this sorted first.

Any input is appreciated! Thanks!

 

Cut a square around that hole. Make it bigger than that hole. Rust never stops, you'll have to get rid of that hole and around it if you want to kill it completely. Sucks but I just did it and now I have nothing to worry about. Just gonna put a couple screws and some thin metal there and imitate new panels. Once painted it won't be noticeable.

 

Yeah I figured this was the best solution, thanks for the input. I'll paint it for now and address this when I can.

 

I took my 2000 XJ to a body show to fix a leak I thought was coming from my windshield. I wanted them to look at the metal around the window in the process. It turns out it was leaking through the firewall in the condensor/evaporator area.

I got that fixed and now I'm only able to run my hvac blower on high, setting number 4. I replaced the blower motor resistor and there is no change.

I also tested the voltage across each of the four wires against ground. In doing so, I was able to get the blower to work in each setting, and confirm that all four wires are connected to the blower and that the switch works.

I tried to test the resistance of the BMR and the values I got were either OL, 0.6, 1.5, or 2 ohms. Of note, they are the same between the old and new BMR.

Can anyone suggest a next step?

 

Here's the crack in the head:


I'm gonna hit up the junkyard on the weekend for a "new" head. Gotta find that magnuflux test kit.

Is there anything in particular I should keep an eye out for?

 

What's the worst that can happen with a 160° thermostat? (Assuming everything else is working properly)

 

It could end up in your Jeep.

 

This is why i ask: that guy got his jeep from his uncle and got a 160° stat for it, another guy told him bad idea lol