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Old Oct 3, 2014 | 05:33 PM
  #45826  
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
Is "all 3 hoses hurt my hand" a good answer? Or do i need to be 100% accurate? Lol
More accurate please.

Amount of skin burned off, divided by time hands held on hoses, equals heater output. Simple frickin arithmetic...........
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 05:46 PM
  #45827  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
More accurate please.

Amount of skin burned off, divided by time hands held on hoses, equals heater output. Simple frickin arithmetic...........
Easiest way is with an IR thermometer right? What if i don't have one?
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 05:50 PM
  #45828  
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
Easiest way is with an IR thermometer right? What if i don't have one?
Yes. Pics of your hands after scorching them on the hoses?
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 05:52 PM
  #45829  
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Along with dial calipers to measure the thickness of peeled skin that's stuck on the hoses
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 05:55 PM
  #45830  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Yes. Pics of your hands after scorching them on the hoses?
Well i'll talk to my maintenance buddy tomorrow at work because they have an ir thermometer. I'm sure they won't mind if i used it.....lol
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 05:56 PM
  #45831  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Along with dial calipers to measure the thickness of peeled skin that's stuck on the hoses
Excellent idea. Pics of the skin and caliper readings needed, of course.....
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 05:56 PM
  #45832  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Along with dial calipers to measure the thickness of peeled skin that's stuck on the hoses
Hahaha!
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 05:57 PM
  #45833  
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All this shenanigans to say: Ditch the HCV and plug it's vacuum line no matter what.
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 06:06 PM
  #45834  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
All this shenanigans to say: Ditch the HCV and plug it's vacuum line no matter what.
So is the hcv the entire piece with the hose attachments on it or just the piece the vacuum line goes into? And to bypass that do i just buy some longer hoses and go straight from up front to where they connect to the firewall?
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 06:08 PM
  #45835  
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
So is the hcv the entire piece with the hose attachments on it or just the piece the vacuum line goes into? And to bypass that do i just buy some longer hoses and go straight from up front to where they connect to the firewall?

huh? Both of them. Heater hoses and vac line. Ditch that crap.
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 06:10 PM
  #45836  
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Get a coolant t from the parts house and use it in place of the valve
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 07:15 PM
  #45837  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988
Get a coolant t from the parts house and use it in place of the valve
Thank you doctor!
Originally Posted by cruiser54
huh? Both of them. Heater hoses and vac line. Ditch that crap.
Ok, will do
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 08:12 PM
  #45838  
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Did a budget boost, 3" front 2 inch rear. Noticed driver front rubber brake line is leaking on the dry rubber part. The nut on the hard line is seized and rounded prior to me messing with it.

Nothing will get the nut off, what do I do?

How can I free the seized brake line nut. I have a new rubber hose but can't get the line loose.
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 09:01 PM
  #45839  
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
Thank you doctor!

Ok, will do
Don't thank the doc. He's a proctologist!!!
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 09:08 PM
  #45840  
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
Did a budget boost, 3" front 2 inch rear. Noticed driver front rubber brake line is leaking on the dry rubber part. The nut on the hard line is seized and rounded prior to me messing with it.

Nothing will get the nut off, what do I do?

How can I free the seized brake line nut. I have a new rubber hose but can't get the line loose.
You can't. If the nut's that bad, when you apply enough force to actually turn it you will shear the hard line. Been there, done that. It's time for new hard line.



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