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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
From: Wichita
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yea that was probably going to be my end route just thought I'd check. I like to upgrade anything I replace on her, although engine components aren't really necessary at this point. Her new one is at the shop for machine work but its race season so that'll be awhile
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
so my lift just got delivered and on one of the leaf springs, one of brackets is out of its position and sliding every where, can i just hammer it back in since it just has a hole to go into or should i try to send it back and get a new one? heres a pic
Herp Derp Jerp

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Looks like that was actually a rivet into the lowest leaf. I'd call the spring company and ask them for advice, they may replace it or give you specific instructions.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: Hagerstown MD
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 w/Flux Capacitor
That was what I assume to be what my regular operating temp is. It was a half hour drive home, referring to your chart id say I was running about 180?
Also do the floors have to have all those fancy indents everywhere, or can i just weld in a flat piece?
Lastly, at the point where my rad cap goes on, the hose that leads to the extra coolant bottle, is pushing out air and slight amounts of coolant bubbling and such, should I just throw a clamp on to stop it?
Also do the floors have to have all those fancy indents everywhere, or can i just weld in a flat piece?
Lastly, at the point where my rad cap goes on, the hose that leads to the extra coolant bottle, is pushing out air and slight amounts of coolant bubbling and such, should I just throw a clamp on to stop it?
Last edited by ITTs_Cole; Jul 13, 2014 at 06:37 AM.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
That was what I assume to be what my regular operating temp is. It was a half hour drive home, referring to your chart id say I was running about 180?
Also do the floors have to have all those fancy indents everywhere, or can i just weld in a flat piece?
Lastly, at the point where my rad cap goes on, the hose that leads to the extra coolant bottle, is pushing out air and slight amounts of coolant bubbling and such, should I just throw a clamp on to stop it?
Also do the floors have to have all those fancy indents everywhere, or can i just weld in a flat piece?
Lastly, at the point where my rad cap goes on, the hose that leads to the extra coolant bottle, is pushing out air and slight amounts of coolant bubbling and such, should I just throw a clamp on to stop it?
2) The fancy indents are for strength and rigidity. Thicker steel should compensate.
3) I did on the YJ
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: Hagerstown MD
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 w/Flux Capacitor
Bought a 00 Jeep Cherokee SE 4.0L in good shape, runs a little rough. Did a lot of basic maintenance to baseline: Oil Change, Champion Plugs, Sea Foam, Fuel Injectors, Battery, Coolant Flush, Steering Flush, Transmission Flush, and High Octane Fillup. Took for a drive and got P0306 Misfire CEL. Reset the PCM, tested Ignition Rail per Chiltons, Good. Redrove and got P0300, P0301, and P0306. Traced out Fuel Injector Wires and had ground on NR1, replaced injector pigtail, good. Redrove, P0306 again. Tested the CKP, TBS, CMP, and Cleaned TB, good. Retested Ignition Rail and tested good, but felt as if the Rail may be producing a weak spark. Tested the rail as follows: Pins 2-1, 2-3, 2-4 (all .8 Ohms); Plugs 1-6, 2-5, 3-4 per Chiltons (all approx 15.o KOHms); this is where I diverged. Tested Pin 1 and Spark plugs 1&6 (.55MOhms), Pin 3 and plugs 2&5 (infinite), same for Pin 4 and plugs 3&4. Then I tested Pin 3 with 1&6 plugs read .5MOhms, same for Pin 4 with 1&6; 2, 3, 4, 5 all tested infinite. This looks like an internal failure in the Ignition Rail which likely gets worse once warmed up. Can anyone confirm resistance testing I just described as it makes sense, but there is nothing available in any techmanual I have found before dumping a new ignition rail in place for no reason.
Update: Bought a new Ignition Coil Rail anyways. Measured primary (all were .9 Ohms) and secondary windings (all were below 14K Ohms); then measured across the windings and all read infinite. If your 4.0L is running rough or a misfire; don't jump to the CKP/CMP/IAC/TPS/Vacuum Leaks/Head Crack/Cats/etc. Test the Ignition Coil Rail (before replacing parts based on recommendations) resistance primary (.5-2 Ohms), Secondary (9K-15.3K Ohms), and across coils (infinite). Chiltons only has you test the Primary and Secondary Coil resistance, but leaves out testing across coils which slowly breaks down under heat, vibration, and age. Engine sounds perfect.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Fixing to purchase lockers and discovered this on the rear end. Is this a good thing as can I save my money and skip the locker on the rear?
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Well I think the most wheeling this Jeep will ever see is probably moderate. I don't have plans to hard core wheel it but we all know how that goes....
How well do the lsd hold up to wheeling? Just wondered. Never had any experience with one.
How well do the lsd hold up to wheeling? Just wondered. Never had any experience with one.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Tire size has more impact on them than terrain, from what I understand.




