Compressor cycling is normal behaviour as the system has an upper and lower pressure limit. Very low refrigerant can make the compressor cycle a lot.

 

If you don't mind could you elaborate? Like, how often should it cycle? Mine goes on and off at idle just sitting there I can feel it go on and off occasionally at cruising speed (highway). It blows cold as ice though.

 

Ok, figured I'd ask here since it seems the wrangler forum is a bit slow...was out at a huge GTD event in my TJ. As I tried to leave, jeep wouldn't start. I can't compare to my XJ because my gf has it and won't be home until later. Found this:







The wire to the starter broke off its plug. Anyone know where I can get a replacement plug as well as the correct wire end that inserts into the plug? All I keep finding are starter assemblies on google.

 

That's basically how mine runs when I have the correct level of refrigerant in it lol. Exactly how the system behaves is totally based on requested cooling (fan speed sorta), engine RPM, refrigerant level, and ambient temp.

 

That would make sense, because if there is one thing I've noticed about it, is it's inconsistent.

 

Should be able to pick up that female spade connector standard at any auto parts, tractor, or trailer supply store. The wire is just 16 AWG copper. For the starting circuit, soldering is way better than crimping, but only if you can solder well. Before even attempting a repair I'd clean the spade on the starter solenoid to get all that crap off. New connector should have a nice dab of electric grease like Gardner Bender OX-GARD or Ideal NOALOX.

 

Update. I did a few more things and it has now stopped over heating. I am not exactly sure what is causing it to behave. I pressure washed the radiator/condenser, drained and refilled the system a few more times, found that my heater core bypass hose was "kinking" when I close the hood, put a hose clamp on the kink to keep the coolant flowing, found that my electric fan is turning on a little late (225 degrees, gauge shows 230). I put a manual switch on the fan and turn it on whenever I drop below 40mph. The temperature even dropped to 160 cruising at lower speeds which it has never done.


I ordered via rock auto a waterpump,195 stat, theromstat housing, I'll try to get those in next weekend, flushing the system every day still even though it looks pretty clean coming out of the radiator drain.

Could a kinked heater hose cause it to overheat? What sensor do I need to replace for the fan or should I get a aftermarket controller?

 

You can check your ECT sensor with a multimeter. Somewhere on here or some other site is a table of reference temperatures to sensor resistances. You'd need to compare it to a proper thermometer like an IR unit.

Don't trust the gauge in the dash. It's driven by a separate sending unit at the back of the head that is 5 or more degrees off from the ECT sensor in the thermostat housing on a good day, and notorious for failing on a bad day.

 

Thanks Salad. I don't have a soldering kit. I'm pretty good at it, just don't have one anymore. I'll see if I can borrow from someone. Thanks again for the info. I'm definitely scrubbing it up before fixing it.

 

what lift height requires t-case drop

 

Anybody wanna recommend a torque converter for a jeep speed? I race my XJ and I'm looking for a snappy powerhouse tc.

 

Every jeep is different. Lift.it and determine after

 

None. SYE always.

 

BwahahHh holy crap i read that wrong. Drinking too much guiness tonight. Yea, SYE is always best bet. Im so happy to be rid of my TC drop and have that clearance back.

 

Okay my turn!

I'm trying to pull the trigger on ordering floor pans for Mr. Green Jeans. C2C previously had 97-01 floor pans listed, now they only have 84-96. My front seat supports are toast so I'll be attempting to fabricate my own.

What else is different between the two floors? Is the transmission tunnel a different shape or something?

EDIT: Can't be that big of a deal, I see a few companies are selling 1984-2001 pans.