Pile of threads here on troubleshooting the charging system, take a look for ideas. First place to start is clean your battery terminals and get your multimeter out.

As far as I can tell the upgraded alternators are always listed separately.

Check under the dash for tweeters

Yeah I have a small multi-end snap ring plier too. It's fine for small things but I needed a larger set, also bought a lock ring plier and a socket for the front yoke nut.

 

So I got quoted to $500 to fix all of this rust and a full rocker. Curious as to how good or bad that is.

 

Not a bad deal if they do good work. I was going to do pans on a trans am (think bandit) for $8-900 but decided not to on account of how much my I hate doing them.

 

Need help. Changed distributor gasket an now CEl is on and throwing code P1391 Intermittent loss of CMP or CKP. Everything's plugged into the cap in correct order

 

Probly should go on a different thread but not sure. Any one know if Chevy suburban leaf springs match up to a 99 Cherokee. Need more suspension mine are shot. I know a full size blazer matches up.

 

Ok so I'm new to this site. just made this account to see if I can get a few answers about my girlfriend's car. It's a 98 Grand Cherokee 4.0 and has been having a few problems lately. A few weeks ago it overheated and boiled 99% of the coolant out. I changed the cap and thermostat. When i refilled the coolant I ran it for quite a while (half hour or so) to burp it and get all the air out. Also did a compression test and leakdown test to see if head gasket was blown. 12% leakdown in all cyl. and comp was 150 steady across all 6.

So now my concern is that the temp gauge gets extremely hot very fast. Drive down the street and its already at 210. it goes to the red and check gauges light comes on. Reservoir is always full, no loss there.

It has an exhaust leak somewhere, i don't want to pull off the manifold because I am worried that it warped it when it overheated.

Today I went to start it and it cranked for a second and died. I tried it again and it cranked even less. Let it sit for an hour and it started right up. There was a reading of 6v from batt - to the case and i cleaned it all up and now no voltage drop across it.

Sorry this is long. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Yep - pretty simple to troubleshoot an alternator. It actually checks out fine, putting out a healthy 14v. The battery was probably just a little weak from being a driveway queen while I've been fixing this up for my daughter. This was only it's third trip since we brought it home. The dash gauge on the other hand isn't moving at all regardless of RPMs. I'll track that gremlin down another day.

Sure enough! Mounted in the lower dash panel. No longer has any wiring attached. Were they originally wired in series with the front speakers?

 

Sounds like a plan

Yes exactly correct. Just with a high-pass filter (capacitor) like in cheap bookshelf speakers.

 

Depends on what they propose to do. I would expect to pay more in my area for a full rocker, rocker backing plate, and partial floor replacement.

Frayed wiring on the CMP lead? Any gunk in the connector, pins corroded?

Check this out. XJ leaf springs are 2.5" wide. You can generally use any 2.5" wide leaf as a member in the spring pack. The whole package won't bolt up though.

 

After eliminating all of the above is it going to be the RMS or is there anything else to check?

Valve cover gasket was leaking badly when I got it. Some of the bolts could be removed by hand! Replaced it already with a new Fel-Pro. Oil Pressure sending unit also got replaced, no leaks there. Oil filter adapter and distributor gasket look good. I used a couple cans of degreaser and pressure washed the heck out everything, including laying on the ground for better reach. Did that at the car wash first and then again later at home. Cleaned off a good majority of the grime - then changed out the VC gasket. It looks good, checked along the backside too and no leaks.
After changing the VC gasket I ran it for quite awhile just sitting there in the driveway. No apparent leaks, no drips underneath.
Later my daughter drove it about 12 blocks round trip - now there's an oil drip.
What's weird is with it sitting in my driveway (slight incline) with it running for 15 minutes or so, (me underneath with flashlight) there are no drips. Drive it around for a couple blocks, come back and later that day there is enough of a drip/leak that there is a run on the ground directly under the rear of the oil pan.
There was still some gunk built up on the back of the oil pan, so I scraped that off and cleaned it up today. There was also some oil goo at the top back of the pan. I'll take a short drive later and then crawl back underneath and see if there will be any fresh goo in the same spot.

 

Hey all, HELP!
So new issue on 1997 XJ Sport. 3.5" RE lift, 31X10.5X15 tires. I have owned the Jeep for a year + as configured and no issues until 2 days ago.

It has started as a shake between 25 & 35 MPH, felt like an out of round tire or like I threw a tire weight. NO side to side wobble, so doesn't feel like a death wobble, just an up and down through the steering wheel.

Took it to get the 2 rear tires replaced today and had them spin balance the fronts while they were at it. Left tire shop and still shakes, just not as bad. (if you are wondering why only 2, that is all they had in stock until Tuesday, then I will have 4 new tires)

I have not jacked it up to check for loose steering/suspension parts, there is no slop in the steering wheel, turn the wheel, tires move right away, and know it is not the lower track bar bold, as there is no clunking when slightly steering the jeep left to right, and looking at the lower axle bolt shows no movement when someone else is moving steering wheel.

Now, my simple trouble shooting so far.
The shake comes during acceleration, but will disappear anywhere between 25 & 35 if I take my foot off the gas pedal and re-appear when the gas is applied again.

Turning a corner during the shake does not change the shake (like make it become the death wobble).

I have put the jeep in 4 high and still had the shake. Jeep really isn't shaking side to side, it is an up and down and FEELS like tires that are unbalanced.

I have the next 48 hours off work and time to work on it, so suggestions, ideas any other troubleshooting tips would be appreciated.

Thanks all in advance!

 

Run it for a while yet.

 

I just bought a 1991 jeep Comanche and it needs A lot of work. I know it has a brake assist kind of thing I wanted to know what it's called and where I could find it. Also need the interior lights, e brake switch that is gone. The brakes are super soft and the guy jb welded all the brake lines. He said he did it to stop the leaks. there are a lot more problems but I'll tackle those later. These problems are keeping it from passing inspection. Thanks for the help

 

Wow.

Well, welcome to the site and congratulations on the 1991 MJ! Pretty uncommon beasts. Seems you've got quite the project there.

My suggestion for you is to grab a Haynes book for the Cherokee. If you haven't figured it out yet they're nearly identical. Overall they're kinda poor manuals but they're pretty decent for working on the brake system, and a hard copy with pictures is absolutely invaluable in the garage.

My next suggestion is replace all the brake lines and bleed them properly and then figure out what's next.

 

Hey all, I got the leak fixed in the sending unit elbow connector. I went and got Permatex High Temperature thread sealant PX #59214. Applied a fair amount across the threads, screwed elbow back into block, screwed PSU into elbow, connected wires to PSU, let the jeep set for 24 hours.

Started the next day, checked for leaks, none, have put over 250 miles on the jeep this week with 0 oil loss anywhere, including the PSU elbow.