Looks like ground. On my 1999 the ground just bolted or clipped onto the back of the radio, not part of any connector.

 

Definitely the ground.

 

Ref DLC below.

Pin cavity 16 is power from fuse 17 in the PDC (Headlamps), pin cavities 4 and 5 are ground (G102).

The ground for 4 and 5 are at the trans dipstick tube bracket attachment stud. See pic. If you don't get voltage from 16 to 4 and/or 5, check G102 connection for corrosion and security.

Pic of '99 PDC below showing the DLC fuse. I'm sure this '99 PDC layout is the same for a '98.





G102:

 

Question 1: What is the cylinder type deal to the left of my hand?
Question 2: What is the black tube in my hand for?
Question 3: Are there any specific reasons why the tube would be capped off?

 

Cylinder is your cruise control. Black hose is a vacuum hose for something.

Pull the bolt out and see if your heat blows out your vents or not. If your heat stops it probably went to your vacuum canister.

 

If your cruise control and heat/AC settings work, leave the bolt alone. If they don't work, figure out where that's supposed to be connected.

 

The vacuum ball is what goes on that hose, after the cruise control.

 

Cruise, heat and AC all work. Looks like I'm good to go lol

 

Annoying water leak(s) in cargo area. Thought I had it narrowed down to the passenger side rear window seal, as it was slightly pulled from the window in the top rear corner. I sealed that with good painters tape to verify if that was it, and/or if it was the only spot.
After lots of rain last night, I have a small lake on the passenger side and a small, separate pond on the drivers side so likely leaking in a couple spots???
- Roof rack is not likely source as I just replaced the headliner and saw no evidence there.
- Hinges not likely source either? Again no sign while replacing headliner.
- Hatch window seal is not rolled as shown here: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rea...er-leak-33903/
- Lower corners of the hatch glass do have water in the weep hole area (outside)
- Hatch door seal looks good except at the bottom center around the latch area.
Should I just replace the window seals (sides and hatch) and hope for the best?
Where are the usual suspect/trouble areas? What am I missing?

 

[QUOTE=cruiser54;2814420]Distributor gaskets can be had at Napa also. But, I just slip an o-ring on the dizzy instead

Is this oring thick enough. It fits on the distributor really well but seems a little thin to me. Put a pen next to it to try and give some perspective.

 

Probably thicker than a paper-thin gasket. I'd go with it.

 

I wouldn't. Stick with the OEM gasket.

 

Checked out the rust problems on the unibod
y today and I got two stress fractures, small ones, one on each side right before the rear tires, and a large chunk about the size of my fist rustin out on the inside of the unibody right before the frame stiffened behind the front left tire. Are these fixable issues or am I better off selling it and buying a better one but with more mileage.
The one I said is the size of my fist is as long as my hand and about a finger wide

 

2000 XJ, 4.0 popping when turning the wheels. Found it to be, what I think, is the track bar, goes from the axle on right side to frame on the left. From what I have been able to find, it's an adjustable, and I can't find just the end, only the complete track bar. Anyone know where I can find just the end? Thanks.....RR

 

Got a pic? It could be anything.