How long to drop the tank and replace the fuel pump? Pretty sure the 2 to 3 turns of the key to start the 99 xj is a result of a leak in the tank at the pump.

 

Guarantee it's a bad check valve. The CV is supposed to hold fuel in the line so she starts right up, but they notoriously go bad, requiring two or three cranks to start.

 

And the CV is part of the fuel pump? That is my understanding anyway. Still doing research. Are there 2 cv's? If so, where is the other one?

 

'99 may be. I recall on my '01 it was practically unserviceable and made more sense to simply prime the ignition twice before starting.

 

97+ are practically identical for those procedures. The differences are so minor you can just drop a line on here and one of us should know the answer. Anything more detailed than a Chilton's or Haynes and you'll want an FSM anyway.

If you're going to be shelling out some dough get an FSM from the beginning. Apparently you can electronic versions on eBay for super cheap.

Yes, all 1997+ Jeeps are like that (TJ and XJ anyway). Check valve is integrated into the fuel pump assembly inside the tank. If you don't have any other reason to drop the tank and replace stuff I'd just practice the poor man's prime and live with it. ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-START and off you go. Or if your battery is good just crank it away and enjoy the early oil pressure lol

 

Hello, I am a newbe and this is my first post. I have a 1994 jeep Cherokee SE. 4.0L, 6 cylinder.


Problem: cranks but no start. Not even a sputter.

problem first occurred after sitting for 3 days during an unusually cold weekend (9 degrees F.)

I Replaced: fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, crankshaft position sensor (the one on the bell housing), camshaft position sensor ( the one that sits between the distributor and distributor cap).

Fuel rail has pressure, and there is blue/white spark from distributor to spark plug when I crank the motor.


I am machanically inclined but not electronically inclined. I saw some threads talking about wire harness issues and so I checked my Chiltons manual and tried to follow instructions about testing for grounds/opens etc.. at the computer module (PCM?), but my wire colors and locations don't match what the manuel is saying so I am not sure how to proceed.

Jay.

 

Ok. I like the wrench work and figure what the heck.

 

anybody know a source for a cherokee pass side snorkel? i need one for my OM617 smap

 

Is 1/4"-7/16" space between the fan pulley bolt and efan motor enough clearance? Motor mounts were replaced about 3 years ago.

 

Any hid or led upgrades available out there for the tail lamps and third brake lamp? I have upgraded the head light and reverse lights already and looking to upgrade the tail side. Lol.

 

Is there an updated linkage system for the np242? Maybe something cable driven? Ever since I replaced my engine it won't go back into 2wd unless I reverse hard and slam on the brakes

 

Has nothing to do with the linkage, unless it's not adjusted properly.

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in ITALICS are mine.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I let off the gas, throw the lever, and then tap the gas and let off.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

To shift out of 4L, shift the transmission into neutral with the vehicle stopped, shift the transfer case lever to 2H, then to D if you have an automatic, or into first gear with a manual, and continue on.


Revised 01-31-2014

 

Hmm I've been doing that and it never seems to work. I've adjusted it to where 2h would work but 4l wouldn't. It almost seems like the gate won't let me go far enough forward to fully engage 2h. Think perhaps I just stretched it and need new bushings or linkage from a jy?

 

In regards to my next XJ, does anybody have good literature on lowering solid axle vehicles? I'm specifically interested in dealing with the clearance issues between the oil pan and front axle. Links are much appreciated.

 

Ever do this?

Transfer Case Linkage Adjustment

Straight from the FSM:

SHIFT LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
(1) Shift transfer case into 4L position. (make sure your shifter is fully in the 4L position)
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Loosen lock bolt on adjusting trunnion (Fig.
87).
(4) Be sure linkage rod slides freely in trunnion.
Clean rod and apply spray lube if necessary.
(5) Verify that transfer case range lever is fully
engaged in 4L position. (you can do this under the vehicle at the transfer case)
(6) Tighten adjusting trunnion lock bolt.
(7) Lower vehicle