Depends. How long is a piece of string?

 

If you complain about an oil leak, please don't own a jeep.

 

You do Jeep work in your uniform?

Not sure about other details but the JK shocks need bushings removed and bar pins pressed in. Or you can go BPE

 

All you need is a vise and a deep socket. Easy.

 

Holy hell! Do you sell your cars if the Check Engine Light comes on or door squeaks, too?!

 

Electrical/interior? Sure, if I'm not busy on shift. I won't get on the ground or do mechanical work. At over $100/uniform, I won't ruin them doing stupid **** like that.


All it takes is the bar pin swap.

 

Haha well it's far from gushing. I'm talking occasional drips, but not bad enough that I need to put in oil before 3 months 3k miles or anything.

 

Im too tired and not enough beer to respond with you rofl

 

I'm getting no activity now with either switch, so I'm gonna say the relay went bad. Neither the lights on the switches nor the LED bar will light up, so I'll worry about it tomorrow. Not going back out tonight.

 

Pretty sure he's selling the Jeep, and he wants to know if the potential increase in value would make it worth his time to fix the oil leak.

 

How can you tell that? It was gibberish to me.

 

I regreased my u joints in above freezing temps today and wanted to say screw it.

 

Everything you need even if you're half blind and have a dim flashlight:






I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.

Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

Revised 02-26-2013

 

01 xj. 8.25 rear end. Which u joint do i need for the rear driveshaft? 1310 like the front?

 

Ayup