The best thing you can do for your brakes is to upgrade to a dual diaphragm booster. Makes a HUGE difference.

 

I've thought about it but seemed like a lot of work at the time. Since its my DD I'm usually hesitant to mess with stuff that isn't broken yet. On this 88 every project I ha we done turned into a different one halfway through. I may do it when it cools back down though.

 

On a side note, I believe the vacuum actuator for the defrost vent is weak or damaged. Is there a way I could permenately seal off the defroster port on the HVAC box without ripping out the dash?

 

Expanding foam

 

It's not bad. I've done it on 3 Jeeps so far. Takes about 3 hours from start to finish. The hardest part is making new lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve and bleeding the lines.

No.

 

First off, e-brake on. Remove rear drive shaft. find the right socket for the nut in the pinion. Remove nut. If wheel turn, use a big pipe wrench around the yoke to hold it from spinning (NEVER EVER use an impact wrench on that nut). remove nut.
. Pull yoke out. remove seal by whatever mean (a seal puller works ok), clean, inspect and tap in the new seal with proper tool (a big f... socket or pipe or anything that is about the same size as the seal.
Reverse order from there.

 

Well it's not really tech, but I just bought 2 after market fenders for my cherokee because the others are bent. Now they are second hand fenders, and I was just wondering how long I should expect them to last if I paint them decently? They put salt on the roads during the winter but cleaning the jeep afterwards wouldn't be a problem for me if necessary.

 

Partially, actually. The friction materials and they way they're applied are engineered to be effective mostly in one direction of rotation.

 

If you're removing the entire pinion to access the seal, yes, you need to get the axles, diff, and pinion out. However if you can get the seal out with the pinion shaft in the way there's no reason to do any extra work. It depends on the seal puller/pliers/prybar/whatever you're trying to use.

 

A/C question

1988 XJ fully converted the right way to 134a.

Recently installed all new components except the condensor.

While idling in park at work on my lunch the Ac was on and blowing cold. Out of nowhere I hear a loud buzzing sound from under the hood. I shut the ac off and it stopped immediately. I shut the jeep off and went and took a look and my "Receiver/Dryer" was spitting freon out the relief valve at the bottom of the can with the AC on. I'm not sure why its doing this. My pressures are normal for my ambient temp, I've got the proper amount of charge. Its deffinately not leaking near any seals of connections.

What do I look for to repair?

 

Quick question that doesn't matter too much to me.. When I release my steering wheel it doesn't go back to center very quickly... I was watching a video where someone said that camber is part of the reason (to me, it seems like the main reason is... you know, path of least resistance) vehicles do this. That being said, does that mean my camber is messed up? Is camber even adjustable on a solid axle?

 

It could mean many thing.. Low tire pressure, wore out pump or camber. I say if it drives fine and doesn't center "very quickly" but it does center, don't worry about it to much.
The self centering feature also affects how easy it is to steer. It is one or the other. Factory setup is just a balance and hopefully not to much to create the dreaded death wobble...

 

Yeah, it was mainly more of a curiosity thing.

 

My parent's Hyundai has mad caster, wheel pops back to center just like a go kart. It's a huge pain in the *** to drive.

 

CASTER plays the biggest part of steering wheel returning to center and is adjustable. Is the Jeep lifted?

How's the tire wear? Any pull to one side while driving?