I have a Fram filter on my Cherokee with about 500 miles on it, on high millage mobile 1 10-30 . Should I change it. ?

 

Just change filter and add oil.

 

You might be better off making a new thread. Not many of us have experience with the TF904, and this will likely get buried by other posts.

Sorry I can't really help you out.

 

Fram are NOT the only crappy filters out there. I think there are more crappy ones readily available than good ones. The short list is Wix, Napa Gold, K&N.

I know Wix are purpose built for applications. They're not some generic one that just "fits".

With our Jeeps and their odd filter positions, like upside down and sideways, we have to have the best anti-drainback valves. Period.

 

Change the filter. You won't lose much oil anyway since the POS Fram has a crappy anti-drainback valve anyway.

 

Why would you buy the most expensive oil yet the cheapest filter? Do you change the filter every 100 miles? Even the pricey synthetic FRAM filters are not to be trusted. The orange with bedliner grippy filters are like playing Russian Roulette.

Even Walmart Canada has stopped carrying FRAM.

 

Actually, I find it ironic that Fram's best attribute is on the OUTSIDE of the filter!!!!

 

Quick question: doing brake work to my XJ has taken some time. A brake line busted and I have been replacing it (bend here, bend there, DOESNT FIT!!, unbend here, rebend there, CUSS, bend here...). Anyways this work has taken a few days (disc swap on a busy schedule), and I think the brake fluid for the rear circuit is kinda on E. I have always kept something in the rear soft-line splitter so it isn't just open and further leaking, but it has gotten to the point when I remove the 'block' fitting barely any fluid trickles out. Does this mean I have drained my master cylinder or any jank like that which would require something other than the traditional bleed (open bleeder, have assistant push brake and hold, close bleeder, let off brake pedal, repeat)? The front brakes were never opened and retained their fluid... just wasn't for sure.

Thanks!

 

Well... Look inside the master cylider, see if it's empty Bleeding that sucker is going to take quite some time indeed.

 

Not entirely empty. The old XJ's have a metal reservoir with two 'sections', which I always assumed were front and rear. Only one section is depleted. The other is fine. If I recall, this happened before when I replaced my wheel cylinders a while back and the driver's side hard line broke. Fluid drained, and all I did once repaired was a regular bleed and all was happy. I just ask this time because it has been a little bit longer.

 

Oh, interesting! My 1999 has a single giant plastic one. Never paid attention to the older style at the JY, sorry.

 

Lol no worries! Probably just being paranoid anyways. CF is like my support group for my fear of Murphy's Law.

 

Alright, so back in 2010 my cylinder head cracked and i had it replaced. That was at 120,xxx. I just changed my oil last week (now at 168 +) and sent a sample in to Blackstone Labs for an analysis and they called me today to inform me that i had trace amounts of coolant. The numbers are WAY down from what they were while i had the cracked head still on, but it is still present. Is there something I can put in my oil to get the rest of this crap out? Would one of the "Engine Flush" products/services shops provide be of any use? Thanks in advance

 

For the risk coolant presents I'd drop the pan and clean it all out properly.

 

I recently removed reinstalled and then removed my cylinder head. When I reinstall the cylinder head the first time I installed new head bolts. I am getting ready to put the cylinder head back on and my question is should I replace the head bolt again or would that set be capable of being used? I know the original head bolt set to throw away after removal but I don't know with aftermarket ones if after they are torqued they are no longer good or if they need to be heat cycle before they are no longer good. Any input on this?