I used a switch. I switch from oil temp sensor to engine temp sensor to feed the same factory temp gauge in the dash.

Same switch as your electric fan mod. (Single pole double throw) Center lead to PCM and other leads to sensors. Of course both sensors have to be same resistance value. (I use same part # for both sensors)

If you want light indicators or led to know what selection your switch is in the dark, , use DPDT instead.

Correction: if you have an earlier model, instead of the center lead going to PCM, it has to go factory gauge feed. Everything else is same.

It can even be a momentary switch to ensure it defaults to engine temp and when you want oil temp, just press or flick the switch, check your temp and let it go.

 

That's where it'll probably end up. Didn't know if there was anything more creative.

Hmmm not a bad idea. Pretty cheap and simple, I just don't like the in accuracy of the stock gauges.

 

Get a 5-speed =P

 

Agreed, Automatics are over rated.

 

I switched from auto to a 6 speed.... Loving it.

 

In reality, knowing the exact temperature is not that important. What matters is the normal operational range and to know how to react when the temp goes outside that range. Green=good, amber = warning, red=not good

 

Right. I would consider this if I hadn't of gotten a free temp gauge

 

Knowing the temp can be important. For example, consider the coolant temp gauge.
"My electric fan isn't coming on, and the gauge is a little bit past the middle line on the temp gauge. What's wrong?"
"Is it one needle-width past or two? Cause one is usually okay, but two might be high."

Or, with numbers:
"My temp gauge is high, but my efan doesn't come on."
"It should come on at 218°."

I prefer quantitative information over qualitative in regards to temperatures, pressures, and many standards.

 

It comes on or it doesn't. If it comes on before it hits the red then its good. who cares if its 218 or 220 or 210?
LIke I said... Know how to adjust your driving when it get close to those hot areas....

Of course, there is nothing wrong with knowing exactly the right number. Thats why they have infrared thermometers you can use to confirm what the actual temp is, compare it to the gauge and used that for future reference on the gauge.. besides, different locations on the engine vary by several degrees. what is best front of engine temp (new way) back of engine (old way) middle of engine (old PCM feed)

Dont get me wrong, tunning/builting an engine is all about quantitative pre-determined data...
but "reference" (go, no-go) are all based on quantitative info.

 

If you know what temperatures correlate to each line on the gauge, then it's fine. It's the exact same thing as having a gauge with numbers because you know the temp. We aren't disagreeing.

If you put a "red is hot" gauge in your Jeep, but you don't know what temperatures correlate to the colors, it's worthless. There isn't one standard "too hot" temperature across the board for vehicles, and the redline on the gauge you buy could be far above your transmission's redline, or it could be inside normal operating range.

I just wanted to clarify what I meant to say.

 

Hi five..... Moving on..

 

So if I install unibody stiffeners the full length of the unibody an then put in a racing seat with a 4 or 5 point harness would it make the Jeep safer in a wreck?

 

Not exactly, you only want the passenger compartment reinforced. You want the engine and trunk area to be crushable so they absorb the impact while leaving the cabin mostly unaffected. But the XJ's are already pretty tough for their weight, they hold up really well. Not sure where the harness would come into play with a normal wreck, it would be nice in a rollover though.

 

Ohhhhhhh ****
Trust me....

 

Beefy *** bumpers help to, they spread the impact out across the whole front/rear to help prevent cabin penetration, but at the same time cause a slightly faster deceleration (which is one of the major things that kill you in a wreck)

Yes I remember your wreck :P