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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 11:49 PM
  #33811  
Cherokeekid4x4's Avatar
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From: Kansas
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep

Did you connect the muffler to the exhaust pipe with exhaust clamps? Once you tighten the nuts for the clamp it indents the pipe and the muffler inlet/outlet which is hard to seperate. With any clamps removed, start tapping on the muffler with a soft mallet. Start easy so you dont ding it up. Tap one side then the other, back and forth. If you really cant get it off then cut it and weld in a cherry bomb.
Yeah it's dented a little at the top but I can move it up and down it just won't Come out! I was thinking about one. Because it'd be smaller an lighter? This dynomax is so heavy and long it just goes all over.
Old Jul 28, 2013 | 11:55 PM
  #33812  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Originally Posted by Cherokeekid4x4

Yeah it's dented a little at the top but I can move it up and down it just won't Come out! I was thinking about one. Because it'd be smaller an lighter? This dynomax is so heavy and long it just goes all over.
I just did mine yesterday from the muffler back. It had a turn down right off of the muffler. I used the factory "tailpipe" from O'Reilly auto parts and bought some flex repair pipe from there also. This is how it turned out. If you look closely at the left there is a factory hanger above the rear axle.
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Old Jul 28, 2013 | 11:57 PM
  #33813  
Cherokeekid4x4's Avatar
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From: Kansas
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206

I just did mine yesterday from the muffler back. It had a turn down right off of the muffler. I used the factory "tailpipe" from O'Reilly auto parts and bought some flex repair pipe from there also. This is how it turned out. If you look closely at the left there is a factory hanger above the rear axle.
Mines gone. Had to cut off. Don't remember why. Oh probably because I couldn't get the muffler off haha. I have another one by the trunk area but just don't know yet I'm out of money so we will just have to wait haha
Old Jul 29, 2013 | 12:04 AM
  #33814  
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From: ks
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Cherokeekid4x4
Mines gone. Had to cut off. Don't remember why. Oh probably because I couldn't get the muffler off haha. I have another one by the trunk area but just don't know yet I'm out of money so we will just have to wait haha
Tap the muffler with a mallet. Only tap the front of the muffler, or the inlet side. Tap to the left and right of the inlet, back and forth. If its mega clamped on your going to have to cut it. I removed my stock muffler because the rocks had gotten to it. Ordered a $35 cherry bomb glasspack and it takes up a lot less room and sounds mean. Thats with a high flow cat however. I did the same muffler/cat combo on my friends xj except his doesnt have a tailpipe and is pretty darn loud. In a good way.
Old Jul 29, 2013 | 12:05 AM
  #33815  
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From: Kansas
Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep

Tap the muffler with a mallet. Only tap the front of the muffler, or the inlet side. Tap to the left and right of the inlet, back and forth. If its mega clamped on the your going to have to cut it. I removed my stock muffler because the rocks had gotten to it. Ordered a $35 cherry bomb glasspack and it takes up a lot less room and sounds mean. Thats with a high flow cat however. I did the same muffler/cat combo on my friends xj except his doesnt have a tailpipe and is pretty darn loud. In a good way.
Ill try tapping. And awesome
Old Jul 29, 2013 | 12:40 AM
  #33816  
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From: MO
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default Driver Door Sag

1999 with driver door sag due to slack in the upper and lower hinge pins/bushings.

I see 2 options:

1. spend >$100 and get factory hinges and find a welder to replace everything.
2. Perform a doorless mod to "replace" the failed hinge pins/bushings.



Does anyone have an opinion on which route they'd go or pose an addition option?
Old Jul 29, 2013 | 12:58 AM
  #33817  
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From: ks
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by MirageMobile
1999 with driver door sag due to slack in the upper and lower hinge pins/bushings.

I see 2 options:

1. spend >$100 and get factory hinges and find a welder to replace everything.
2. Perform a doorless mod to "replace" the failed hinge pins/bushings.



Does anyone have an opinion on which route they'd go or pose an addition option?
If your going through the trouble of removing the doors and you would like the ability to remove them whenever, then go for it!
Old Jul 29, 2013 | 05:37 AM
  #33818  
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From: Baytown
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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1995 XJ, AX-15 tranny. External slave cylinder. After warmed up, clutch pedal squeaks when pressed and is kinda sticking as pedal is released. Works fine when cold. Thinking of changing out master/slave assembly first. Thoughts?
Old Jul 29, 2013 | 06:34 AM
  #33819  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by dannyboy2012
Sounds good so were can i a trans cooler compatible with the aw4. And do you know of any threads that show regearing or changing the seal i'll keep looking but hard to find for some reason thanks.
There's a few links on google. Any ole transmission cooler will work. What size tires are you running on stock gears?

Originally Posted by karl4x4
its not unusual for the trans cooler lines going to the rad rub in obscure places and puncture or rust trough. Probably why you can't find the leak.

If you don't see obvious damage, re-fill transmission with proper oil, have a buddy start it and see it come out. Turn it off. It will leak enough to empty the line. Now all you have to do is change/fix the line. No worries, its not high pressure.
Rusted lines in the bell housing? In California?
Old Jul 29, 2013 | 06:37 AM
  #33820  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by 01Cherokee_Sport
Alright, so i dont know if this started recently or not but yesterday i was on the highway going about 75. let off the gas and i instantly slowed down to 60....going downhill.....coasting. it was like driving a golf cart down a hill that has a governer or a limiter on it, it felt like something was pulling me back, my driveshaft was making a grinding noise I THINK. thing is...when i was going 50 i let off and i coasted fine, no abrute slowing down. :/
Sounds an awful lot like your transmission was in the wrong gear. Where the RPM's higher than normal?
Old Jul 29, 2013 | 06:51 AM
  #33821  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Resistance may be different. Try it and see if it works. It's either accurate or way off.

I assume we're discussing the temp sensor?

I know the MAT/IAT sensor is ~20° difference if you use a HO sensor in a Renix. Don't know about a temp sensor.
Shoulda clarified this earlier. Temp sending unit for gauge.
Old Jul 29, 2013 | 07:10 AM
  #33822  
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Shoulda clarified this earlier. Temp sending unit for gauge.
Yup
Old Jul 29, 2013 | 07:13 AM
  #33823  
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My concern is this:

I don'r know when the senders changed from just sending a signal to the gauge to sending a signal to a PCM so it can run the gauge.
Old Jul 29, 2013 | 07:26 AM
  #33824  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
My concern is this:

I don'r know when the senders changed from just sending a signal to the gauge to sending a signal to a PCM so it can run the gauge.
Hmm I didn't think of that. Issue is idk if that is my problem or not, I know my sensor is broken regardless. Not sure if in have a bad wire somewhere.
Old Jul 29, 2013 | 07:29 AM
  #33825  
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Originally Posted by my89xj
Hmm I didn't think of that. Issue is idk if that is my problem or not, I know my sensor is broken regardless. Not sure if in have a bad wire somewhere.

SENDER. If the connectors are different, I'm concerned.

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